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  #2941 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 10:07 PM
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  #2942 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 11:23 PM
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Detailing my wife's LS400 which is for sale now that we have a new(er) Lexus LS for her.

Watched the Indy race and the NASCAR (What's up with Smoke? Has he lost a few marbles?) and then attacked my old buddy - the diesel generator again. It run perfectly, screams right on up to its rated 3,600 RPM, but only puts out 60 volts instead of 120 at the rated speed. After I just rebuilt the engine, now I gotta go into the gen head......
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  #2943 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 11:41 PM
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prepped out, body worked, seam sealed, and sprayed some zero rust in the trunk area. I ran out of materials mid spray. I planned on getting more anyways so I'll give it a few days to out gas and I'll reprep and spray one more coat. One coat isn't enough with that stuff. Sprays nice though with a little acetone.
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  #2944 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:30 AM
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interior work

Spent the weekend working on my door panels for my coupe. first time I did any interior work like this. using Sintra sign board I cut out panels to fit the door. Because the latches on my door stick out away from the wood frame (old chevy all wood) I used two layers of backing then glued 1/8" foam over the panels. After that dried I cut the door fabric which matches my seat fabric and using 3m glue rolled the fabric flat then pulled it tight on the back side.
Took quite awhile to do but came out better than I thought it would. SC
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  #2945 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:34 PM
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Got out all the seats and shag carpet from the Falcon project. The mouse nests were pretty bad, so needed my spray respirator on while cleaning all those up! Found some small rust holes on both front floors, but concentrated to just one area on both sides, so an easy cutout and patch. Got the Camaro steering column bolted in solid now, so it's good to go.
Had to use two pieces on pass. side, as I was short on metal:

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  #2946 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Got out all the seats and shag carpet from the Falcon project. The mouse nests were pretty bad, so needed my spray respirator on while cleaning all those up! Found some small rust holes on both front floors, but concentrated to just one area on both sides, so an easy cutout and patch. Got the Camaro steering column bolted in solid now, so it's good to go.
Had to use two pieces on pass. side, as I was short on metal:

Oh No ,didnt remove shag carpet ,it wasn,t orange and yellow was it.LOL loohs like you are off to a good start ,dont get much time to work on mine now ,couple problems,
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  #2947 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:00 PM
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Oh No ,didnt remove shag carpet ,it wasn,t orange and yellow was it.LOL loohs like you are off to a good start ,dont get much time to work on mine now ,couple problems,
As a matter of fact you're pretty close!
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  #2948 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sportcoupe View Post
Spent the weekend working on my door panels for my coupe. first time I did any interior work like this. using Sintra sign board I cut out panels to fit the door. Because the latches on my door stick out away from the wood frame (old chevy all wood) I used two layers of backing then glued 1/8" foam over the panels. After that dried I cut the door fabric which matches my seat fabric and using 3m glue rolled the fabric flat then pulled it tight on the back side.
Took quite awhile to do but came out better than I thought it would. SC
Sooooo Where are our pictures SC ?

John L
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  #2949 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 12:46 AM
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put a coat of filler on the L QTR of my Mustang tonight. I'm gonna have to go back to the paint store to get some Dolphin Glaze to skim this quarter. Upol filler isn't spreader friendly enough for top coats. The good news is, when I went back to the paint store to see if they'll exchange some 8 month old brand new can of white zero rust for black, the guy said yes and called to have it delivered by end of the week. So saturday I will zero rust the trunk floors again and hopefully by then I will have the e brake parts fished out of some boxes and mini blasted and ready for zero rust.
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  #2950 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
put a coat of filler on the L QTR of my Mustang tonight. I'm gonna have to go back to the paint store to get some Dolphin Glaze to skim this quarter. Upol filler isn't spreader friendly enough for top coats. The good news is, when I went back to the paint store to see if they'll exchange some 8 month old brand new can of white zero rust for black, the guy said yes and called to have it delivered by end of the week. So saturday I will zero rust the trunk floors again and hopefully by then I will have the e brake parts fished out of some boxes and mini blasted and ready for zero rust.
Let me ask a question? Would a heavy coat of polyester primer work as well as a skim coat? What would be the advantages or disadvantages of each?

John L
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  #2951 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:55 AM
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Sooooo Where are our pictures SC ?

John L
well I thought I uploaded them with the post but they don't seem to be there. I added them to my album photos. Will try uploading them again.
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  #2952 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
Let me ask a question? Would a heavy coat of polyester primer work as well as a skim coat? What would be the advantages or disadvantages of each?

John L

If I could toss something out there on the difference, I find that with the clean up and over spray and the other things you need to deal with spraying I reserve it for use on a very large panel, one with a lot of body lines, or one that is flexible.

Or of course a combination of those three reasons. It is PERFECT in my opinion for stuff like firewalls and the first time I ever used it, on the tail gate of my truck. Repairing an original tail gate with all the lines and the name stamped into it, spreading filler is of course very difficult. So to rough out the work with very coarse paper that cuts very easy to get it into shape with filler. Then applying a nice application of polyester primer and now you can sand it to perfection with finer paper that will leave it more paint ready than if you were to try to sand the filler applied with a spreader around all those body lines and what not.

Same on a fire wall or something like that, all the holes and body lines and seams, working around that is a bear with a spreader and filler. Polyester primer is the way to go there.

On large flat panels like a hood it works great because you don't have to sand off so much that isn't doing a thing for your final product, all the little lumps from the edge of the spreader and passes of the spreader with filler. You rough it out with coarser paper that cuts fast on that flexing panel so you don't have to push down hard to sand and flex the panel. Once it's all flat, a few coats of polyester primer to fill all those coarser sand scratches and small flaws and you can sand it much easier than putty being it again, doesn't have all the ridges and what not.

I have done some tests with that stuff that you wouldn't believe and it passed with flying colors. How about spraying it over filler sanded with 36 grit brand new, sharp paper, one application of a couple of coats. Sanded that with 120-180-220-320-400 and then painted black bc/cc over it. Six months later I was able to examine it and it showed ZERO shrinkage, pretty cool stuff.

Brian
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  #2953 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
Let me ask a question? Would a heavy coat of polyester primer work as well as a skim coat? What would be the advantages or disadvantages of each?

John L
I never used the slick sand but with featherfill, it will take away the waves and turn dings into waves. I just don't rely on it for dings. A part of learning for me was to run my hand on every piece of work and when a few imperfections could slide into round 2 of primering I have always felt how they felt before and after. Doing that will teach you what primer will cover and what it won't. I got the piece of filler nicely blended together with the old filler but I ended up sanding a little more on the back of the quarter and felt the entire back area and the area I worked needs one tight skim. I mean a tight skim where you'll mix it and go , "how and the hell is so little filler gonna coat that big area? So when I go to the store to get some more zero rust I will get some dolphin glaze as well. Upol gold filler + dolphin glaze= the price of the better 3m filler I like using. So If you're good at mixing accurate skim coats you will get your money's worth.

As far as what to prime, I probably should have primed the trunk area before zero rusting. It wasn't stripped so instead of the work being in stripping it, the work was in prepping it nice, and it slipped my mind that zero rust prepping is a cross between prepping for prime AND paint. It has to be prepped one notch cleaner than a prime prep.
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  #2954 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 10:22 AM
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Thanks for the answers guys. 40 years ago I did the yellow 47 Ford with Eliminator brand of polyester primer. Even though the car is more than ready for the redo it is getting the Polyester primer held up perfectly. I can see the disadvantages of having to deal with the mess, overspray, etc.

John L

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  #2955 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 10:40 AM
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I have a 14 month old baby so I prime in sections and pieces. When I'm done with this quarter I will mask off the door, ignore the jambs for the moment, and back mask the top of the quarter so there's no hard line. I will prime the tops of the quarters when I do the upper rear body and tail light panel. I also started to final block the fenders and realized I need to spot prime in the middle of the fenders, so I will back mask off both body lines. Simple. Overspray isn't an issue when you know how to mask for paint AND primer. When masking for primer who cares how it looks?
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