The "What Did You Work On Today" thread - Page 213 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > General Discussion> Hotrodders' Lounge
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #3181 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2013, 10:00 PM
496CHEVY3100's Avatar
Appalachian American
 

Last journal entry: ,
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Appalachia GA
Posts: 856
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 487
Thanked 327 Times in 287 Posts
I am looking for a fuel cell for my truck ,Lost bid three times on e bay,what is the purpose of rear fuel outlets looks dangerous on street car if rear ended .I am assuming because fuel slosh to rear on acceleration ,I was thinking of mounting pump fuel line and return lines on front then run a pickup tube to the rear,think that might work,

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #3182 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2013, 10:04 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,977
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 20
Thanked 349 Times in 307 Posts
Flipped the front sheetmetal over today and welded all my tacked braces up solid. Added sheetmetal gussets in every corner and joint also. The end result is very ridgid, and I can flip the frontend over, or any direction on the floor and it doesn't flex! Didn't hit the wrecking yard to get my tailgate cables, so need to get them tomorrow so I can put the frontend back on and set the cable restraints.
Also got my rear shock brackets welded up to the axle, and my heim joint adjuster built for the modified Ford Z bar. Gutted all the factory wiring, and got a nice surprise. Previous owner said the wipers were vacuum, but the motor is electric, so I wont need to replace it. I like having wipers, as my other hotrod barely has them. (manual operated!) I purchased one of Speedway's 20 ckt GM kits, and it came in yesterday. The kit comes with a new headlight switch, dimmer switch, and plugs right into the '95 Camaro column I'm using. Looks much more complete, and simpler than the 12 ckt. universal hotrod kit I put in the Austin.
No pics here either, as I spent 9 hrs. on the Falcon, and was too whipped to go get the camera.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3183 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2013, 10:11 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,977
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 20
Thanked 349 Times in 307 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I am looking for a fuel cell for my truck ,Lost bid three times on e bay,what is the purpose of rear fuel outlets looks dangerous on street car if rear ended .I am assuming because fuel slosh to rear on acceleration ,I was thinking of mounting pump fuel line and return lines on front then run a pickup tube to the rear,think that might work,
That's correct, it's to keep the outlets covered in gas all the time while accelerating. Anytime you get hit in the rear you've got trouble, regardless of the outlet position. I think most impacts will fracture a fuel cell if it's not protected by your bumper or frame.
I've got my outlets at the rear, and my fuel filter and pump below the tank also. I see a lot of street rods with a similar setup.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3184 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2013, 10:22 PM
bigdog7373's Avatar
Of course it's fast
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 2,670
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 49 Times in 49 Posts
What's snow?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3185 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2013, 10:24 PM
Semper Gumby
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 335
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 160
Thanked 187 Times in 150 Posts
Nothin' special at all. Was running around, doing errands, heard about the bombs in Boston, came home switched on the boob tube, and that was it for my day.

As a person whose chequered past includes time spent as an emergency response planner & coordinator, I wind up watching the pros handle situations (and critiquing their responses)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3186 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2013, 10:49 PM
496CHEVY3100's Avatar
Appalachian American
 

Last journal entry: ,
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Appalachia GA
Posts: 856
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 487
Thanked 327 Times in 287 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
That's correct, it's to keep the outlets covered in gas all the time while accelerating. Anytime you get hit in the rear you've got trouble, regardless of the outlet position. I think most impacts will fracture a fuel cell if it's not protected by your bumper or frame.
I've got my outlets at the rear, and my fuel filter and pump below the tank also. I see a lot of street rods with a similar setup.
I will not be running a rear bumper roll pan only, but I will have a reece hitch behind rollpan with a license plate that folds down to slide in reciver hitch.i have ben looking at tilt front end parts since my other truck a 50 Chevy will have Tilt ,you might want to look at a GMC brigadere truck they have tilt front ends with a chain run thru a spring with adjustable lengths ,so when you tilt it forward it doesn't hit solid it has a cushion to prevent cracks in fiberglass front end on truck ,I know yours is steel but it might be worth a look,
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3187 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2013, 11:25 PM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 8,204
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 290 Times in 270 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I am looking for a fuel cell for my truck ,Lost bid three times on e bay,what is the purpose of rear fuel outlets looks dangerous on street car if rear ended .I am assuming because fuel slosh to rear on acceleration ,I was thinking of mounting pump fuel line and return lines on front then run a pickup tube to the rear,think that might work,
Technically a lower rear sump/outlet is illegal on a street driven later model vehicle. The fed regulations say fuel has to exit the top of the tank.

I was going to go the easy way on my Stude and buy a cell. But I'm trying to do a 60's-70's style build. So I went with a stock type tank. Bottom outlet as it was originally built.

To keep the outlet towards the front of the tank. Thus keeping the fuel pumps somewhat protected by the rear axle/frame. I installed the outlet on a bottom sump about 8" back from the front of the tank. I internal baffled the tank a couple of inches behind the outlet so the fuel will climb the baffle under take off and function as if the fitting was at the rear.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3188 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2013, 09:31 AM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,977
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 20
Thanked 349 Times in 307 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I will not be running a rear bumper roll pan only, but I will have a reece hitch behind rollpan with a license plate that folds down to slide in reciver hitch.i have ben looking at tilt front end parts since my other truck a 50 Chevy will have Tilt ,you might want to look at a GMC brigadere truck they have tilt front ends with a chain run thru a spring with adjustable lengths ,so when you tilt it forward it doesn't hit solid it has a cushion to prevent cracks in fiberglass front end on truck ,I know yours is steel but it might be worth a look,
Thanks! I used tailgate cables from a late 70's Malibu wagon on the tilt on my Austin gasser, and they work great. Hopefully I can find another old wagon to grab them off again.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3189 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2013, 06:31 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,977
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 20
Thanked 349 Times in 307 Posts
Picked up my newly built driveline today, and slid it in. Perfect fit! (as it should be!) Then we headed to the wrecking yard to get the cables, and found a pair of nice ones on a little Ranger truck. I also saw a Taurus SHO with a nice leather backseat that folds down in two sections, so grabbed that to replace the shabby and tattered Falcon backseat. At least I'll only have to get the buckets recovered, and not front and back seats!
Got back home and had my friend Mike help me lift the frontend back on the car again. We tied it with old scrap wiring at the place I wanted it to stop, and then I fabbed up a pair of straps to clamp the tube brace. Used a bumper hole in the frame for the other end, and bolted the cables in place. Once I cut the temp wiring it sits great!




The straps that connect the cable to the tube can be adjusted by loosening the throughbolt and sliding the strap up or down to vary how far the frontend opens when the cable stops it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3190 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2013, 07:29 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 41 chevy frame on the move.
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southington,CT.
Age: 50
Posts: 117
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Car rotisserie

Here I am with my frame/body rotisserie.My next items is another piece of 2 1/2 square tubing and four swivel casters.Gonna take a trip over to Tractor supply for the caster wheels.It's been a looooooooooong time in coming.
stefanP
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	41chevy rotisserie 002.JPG
Views:	79
Size:	338.3 KB
ID:	73265   Click image for larger version

Name:	41chevy rotisserie 007.JPG
Views:	77
Size:	304.2 KB
ID:	73266  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3191 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 07:11 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,977
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 20
Thanked 349 Times in 307 Posts
Did a little project today on the old Austin gasser that I've just had on the back burner forever. I wanted to make the rim of my steering wheel larger, and had a lace on old 70's style cover on it, but it shifted and twisted all the time. It also didn't fill my hands well, so it was like trying to turn a piece of spaghetti in my hands.
I've seen old dirt trackers, and some hotrods with wrapped wheels that were done with large twine or small rope, so I got the smallest clothesline rope I could find at the hardware store. A 100' length I figured would make it, and glad I got that much as it took nearly all of it to do this!
I wrapped the entire wheel, with some cross wraps at each spoke to keep the rope from skipping over the outter rim when I got to the spokes. Hardest part was dealing with the excess rope while running it around the wheel, and keeping everything drawn tight! Had to stop several times and re-roll the rope as it became a huge mess! At the last I'd used up most of the 100' and it became more manageable.
So here's the end result:


I may dye it dark brown or black later if the ivory colored rope becomes too dirty looking.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3192 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 07:15 PM
496CHEVY3100's Avatar
Appalachian American
 

Last journal entry: ,
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Appalachia GA
Posts: 856
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 487
Thanked 327 Times in 287 Posts
Just put clear shalac on it will last forever,probably spelled it wrong.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3193 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 07:25 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,977
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 20
Thanked 349 Times in 307 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Just put clear shalac on it will last forever,probably spelled it wrong.
I thought about that also, as it would seal it, and make it solid to the wheel, so the rope wont ever get loose. I may go ahead and do that before it gets too dirty.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3194 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 07:54 PM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 8,204
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 290 Times in 270 Posts
Nice job on the steering wheel!

I got a late start. Sunshine this morning so I had some outside house work to do.

Started on the gas tank about 2:30 pm. Welded the seams. Had issues with the wire feed on the welder. Got everything welded, ground and roughed up the surface of the tank. Pressure checked for leaks. Put on a coat of primer/sealer just as the radio announcer said it was time for me to go get some eats. At the same time liquids started pouring out of the sky. Took a phone camera pic of the wet painted, completed tank and closed the toy box.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3195 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 08:16 PM
Too Many Projects's Avatar
A few muscle cars & a Corvair
 

Last journal entry: continued
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Stillwater, MN
Posts: 503
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 74
Thanked 286 Times in 227 Posts
Got back on the seat mounting in the '38 today. The PO had bolts running all the way thru the base bar with nuts on the bottom that were hard to get at. I pulled them out for enough threads to bolt the seats on and welded them to the bar. Then I cut off the excess bolt.



Once I had the right seat bolted to the bar, the outside leg was hanging in the air again, like the left seat. On the left side, I welded a bolt to the floor pan and made spacers to fill the gap. As I looked at the right side, It dawned on me to use the original seat bolt hole and make a plate and nut arrangement to hold the seat.





I still need to drill a hole for the inside bolt but it is good for now.



I then swapped the '38 with my '67 Camaro in the shop. The heater core has been bad for 3 years in the Camaro and it seems the only way I'm going to drive it this year is with heat. Only took an hour and I had it on the table. I have a new one coming from Classic Muscle in NC. I ordered it first thing this morning and am hoping it will get here Friday. I want to drive the car to a club tour Saturday and it will be in the low thirties in the morning with a high of only 42. I'm not driving a car in that temp with no heat.







Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Tags
build thread, projects

Recent Hotrodders' Lounge posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
Northstar T
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hahaha Remember that "Hemi in a Camaro" thread... Crazy Mopar Guy Hotrodding Basics 14 09-25-2014 02:32 PM
Another engine "tick" diagnosis thread....(long) ForceFed86 Engine 2 04-09-2011 04:54 PM
Increase thread title "preview" time cboy Hotrodders Site Suggestions and Help 16 07-03-2008 09:45 PM
MuscleCarKid_1991 "Senior Project" thread: Dumped Jon Engine 2 03-22-2008 09:01 PM
"Trial fitting parts" thread vs. paint thickness rcurrier44 Body - Exterior 3 01-26-2005 06:24 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:37 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.