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  #3271 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
this week is the transition from normal temps to hot, and wasting some body filler adjusting to it. No fun today.
Had the same issue the other day when I Duraglassed my rear flares. It was cold and I brushed the duraglass 10 minutes after I put it on and it got all over my welding coat! It eventually dried, but took a lot longer than a warm day.
Now we're in the 70's, and it will probably set up before I get it spread!

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  #3272 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 10:42 PM
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Are you sure that they are TIG gloves ? The ones I have are as soft as a good driving glove, and are not bulky at all. I can use them for nearly anything, even with my arthritic hands. My hands and fingers are so thick, I can't find a pair of regular welding gloves to fit me, and are way too bulky to get anything done in if I could find a pair to fit. As I already said the proper TIG gloves are very comfortable, to the point I sometimes forget that I have them on. Get back on down to the store and say that you want to see their TIG gloves. About $12.oo a pair. Allan
Mine are made of deer hide. Usually arc welding gloves are the thick bulky ones.

BB
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  #3273 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 11:09 PM
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Mine are made of deer hide. Usually arc welding gloves are the thick bulky ones.

BB
I didn't know the difference and one day stumbled upon some TIG gloves on a tool truck, holy crap, I HAD to own them and I am so glad I got them. They are the only way to fly in my opinion. The MIG gloves are so bulky and clumbsy.


Brian
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  #3274 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2013, 06:34 AM
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Yes, very cool John and Dave. I got to meet Sam (OneMoreTime) today. He was driving thru the bay area on the way back up to Washington. We had a lunch over at a nearby burger joint and had a nice conversation, That's Sam!

Brian
Finally got to meet John ,a very nice person and interesting to talk to,he took me to meet some of his local rodders .He was like Fonzie every where we went every one knew him by his first name,even the restaurant I felt like a celebrity,LOL seriously if any of you get a chance to meet John you will enjoy your day. David
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  #3275 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2013, 09:12 AM
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Mine are made of deer hide. Usually arc welding gloves are the thick bulky ones.

BB
Just to be clear that TIG gloves IS what I have being I have never TIGed in my life, here are my gloves and the difference. Click on the photo below to see a video.

Brian


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  #3276 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2013, 10:10 AM
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got those same gloves. They work great. I like being able to feel the heat cause it tells me if I can keep welding or not.
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  #3277 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:08 PM
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Another nasty drizzler of a morning.

Warmed up into the high thirties by noon.

Decided to repair and narrow the frame rails behind the rear axle for more tire inner sidewall clearance. Removed the pinch weld lip and replaced outer frame rails with 12 ga. steel pieces bent up on the brake. Made up offset spring shackles to move rear spring in 1" on both sides.

More grinding and primer on the frame inner surfaces.
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  #3278 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2013, 09:27 PM
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Medical appointment and a bunch of honey-do's in town

Supposed to be getting wet again here tomorrow, so I spent the rest of today mowing and trimming (mostly just driving the garden tractor around the place)

If it is raining tomorrow, I'll have an excuse to dodge the yard work and get back in the shop
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  #3279 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2013, 11:15 PM
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I picked up a fuel filter and did a little changing to the fuel delivery on the Rambler. It has been running great then all of sudden I am getting a little "chugging" again at cruise. It's fuel I know that because when the choke is on it doesn't do it. It's leaning out at cruise. I was trying to figure it out with some different things I was checking and all of a sudden it was running perfect without me knowing what I did (this was a few weeks ago I don't remember if I mentioned it here). So I delve back into the same area that I was in last time and we will see. I was hoping to find the filter clogged or something but I cut it open and it was spotless, crap.

We will see tomorrow.

Brian
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  #3280 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2013, 12:20 AM
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work

pushed out a rear body panel and parts of two tail light panels on a 55 Chevy. The guru wanted to bend the decklid to push it flush with the lower rear body panel by putting two slices on the shell, bending, then welding, and so when I put on the quarter that was the plan, loosely. So today I actually got to that part and so when I evaluated things more closely it was obvious to me that it was the rear body panel that needed to be pushed out (to be flush with decklid). It was the less evasive way and I really didn't want to bend the decklid cause you never know, it might cause the foam crap between the shell and skin to be poking up and a real issue. The decklid was fine. So I detached a couple spot welds to the striker and got pushing. It pushed out so perfectly and I can't say enough about how useful a porto power is. When I had to do the bottom of the tail light panels I used a small piece of 2x4 and the clamps I used controlled where the pressure was applied to cause the porto always wants to slide around on you if the angle isn't perfect. Then I re-welded the striker in place, making sure to bring the flange to the rear body and not clamping it down, which would have pushed it back in. Worked like a charm and so I then got the decklid lined up perfectly with everything...then I found out we're going Billet hinges for front and rear...and they usually SUCK! Now I can't even do the mud on the decklid cause I fear the height in the front of the decklid will change once we get the hinges. The guru did the hood and he's pretty pissed he's gonna have to most likely realign the hood as well. Anyhow, learned so much about tendencies of a 55 Chevy on this car and am excited to learn more. Gotta love the wheel houses on these as a tech...they're so easy! Doesn't really make the thing stout but serves as a good mud guard.




and yes I redid the mud down there. wouldn't look so good over cracked bondo. Sometimes show cars suck. It never ends! I mean all this work to gain only 1/8". The boss has been really cool about time allowed and it's nice because the last 2-3 cars weren't show car quality jobs, yet we find it hard to swallow our pride sometimes.


Last edited by tech69; 04-26-2013 at 12:25 AM.
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  #3281 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2013, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I picked up a fuel filter and did a little changing to the fuel delivery on the Rambler. It has been running great then all of sudden I am getting a little "chugging" again at cruise. It's fuel I know that because when the choke is on it doesn't do it. It's leaning out at cruise. I was trying to figure it out with some different things I was checking and all of a sudden it was running perfect without me knowing what I did (this was a few weeks ago I don't remember if I mentioned it here). So I delve back into the same area that I was in last time and we will see. I was hoping to find the filter clogged or something but I cut it open and it was spotless, crap.

We will see tomorrow.

Brian
I know you have already cleaned the carburator ,I think twice ,but the lean condition at cruise or soft acceleration sounds like an transfer slot partially plugged ,could be wrong .
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  #3282 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2013, 06:48 AM
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I know you have already cleaned the carburator ,I think twice ,but the lean condition at cruise or soft acceleration sounds like an transfer slot partially plugged ,could be wrong .
Could just be the total crap fuel we have today. Can you still get non-oxygenated fuel in CA ?? That's all I burn in my classic cars and lawn/yard tools with a carburator.....ended all my carb clogging/poor running issues. I still mix a small ratio of Sea Foam with the fuel too.

Wednesday, I put the doors and fenders on the Mustang at work. We got a new battery and I put 3 gallons of gas in it. Trickled a little in the carb and turned the key to see what would happen. The danged thing fired right off. After a couple more carb primings, it ran perfect !!! This from an engine that last ran 9 YEARS ago !!! I did spray a generous shot of Aero Kroil in the cylinders and turned it over a couple dozen times with a socket before I put it back in the body. No leaks in the fuel system either, every piece of which was replaced from the filler neck to the fuel pump.

I dug the head light and grill assembly out of the storage shed to discover the extension housings are junk. Ordered new extension assemblies. They should be here next Monday and then this car will be done and ready for the owner to pick up. The shop owner is pretty pumped that it is really going to leave after all this time....



Last edited by Too Many Projects; 04-26-2013 at 07:04 AM.
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  #3283 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2013, 07:07 AM
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Could just be the total crap fuel we have today. Can you still get non-oxygenated fuel in CA ?? That's all I burn in my classic cars and lawn/yard tools with a carburator.....ended all my carb clogging/poor running issues. I still mix a small ratio of Sea Foam with the fuel too.
You are correct on the quality of the gas ,here in Ga. we can buy 100% gas or 85 for newer cars the pure gas cost 70 cents more per gallon but it is the only way a small engine will stay running the E85 if it sits for a couple months the carb will stop up with a white powder and will not run if it does it is very poorly ,I have to run pure gas in all my vehicles with carbs, can run E85 in fuel injected engines I guess because of higher fuel pressures,
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  #3284 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2013, 07:58 AM
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I know you have already cleaned the carburator ,I think twice ,but the lean condition at cruise or soft acceleration sounds like an transfer slot partially plugged ,could be wrong .
I think you are right, the thing is the problem was GONE and now it is creeping back just like it originally did.

The thing I had done to fix it was to run it up to the RPM that it was really chugging hard (it had gotten to a point that I couldn't drive the car any longer) and I closed off the choke almost all the way and it smoothed out, AHH HAAA, that tells me that it is leaning out and with the choking it is sucking more fuel in and richening up to run properly. Ok, so I did this a few times trying to figure out what I was seeing and I guess this pulled the junk out of the cruise circuit, that is all I can figure that got it running perfect again. The other thing I did was to pull the fuel hose off before the pump (dual action mechanical) and the fuel POURED out so it wasn't clogged or anything. Anyway, that is what I did those two things and WHAM the next day I start it up to check out much fuel the pump is pumping and the darn thing is running like a top!

So I start driving it and the last few days it starts that chugging again. I removed the filter from where it was before the pump and put it after the pump (a new filter of course) . I wanted it at a more accessible spot (though my nice steel fuel line sure looked better) and in case the fuel pump was the source of the crud in the carb. So today I will see. I ran it up and choked off the carb to clean it out (yes I have actually disassembled the carb and cleaned it out a number of times) and with the moving of the filter maybe I did something, heck I don't know. Give me a fender to fix I don't know crap at all.

Brian
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  #3285 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2013, 08:11 AM
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I think you are right, the thing is the problem was GONE and now it is creeping back just like it originally did.

The thing I had done to fix it was to run it up to the RPM that it was really chugging hard (it had gotten to a point that I couldn't drive the car any longer) and I closed off the choke almost all the way and it smoothed out, AHH HAAA, that tells me that it is leaning out and with the choking it is sucking more fuel in and richening up to run properly. Ok, so I did this a few times trying to figure out what I was seeing and I guess this pulled the junk out of the cruise circuit, that is all I can figure that got it running perfect again. The other thing I did was to pull the fuel hose off before the pump (dual action mechanical) and the fuel POURED out so it wasn't clogged or anything. Anyway, that is what I did those two things and WHAM the next day I start it up to check out much fuel the pump is pumping and the darn thing is running like a top!

So I start driving it and the last few days it starts that chugging again. I removed the filter from where it was before the pump and put it after the pump (a new filter of course) . I wanted it at a more accessible spot (though my nice steel fuel line sure looked better) and in case the fuel pump was the source of the crud in the carb. So today I will see. I ran it up and choked off the carb to clean it out (yes I have actually disassembled the carb and cleaned it out a number of times) and with the moving of the filter maybe I did something, heck I don't know. Give me a fender to fix I don't know crap at all.

Brian
There are several products on the market to prevent this problem from happening ,I never used them ,I guess I just didn't belive in them ,but my truck 06 Silverado started surging when pulling my boat out at the boat ramp ,hard pull light throttle, so I put in a can of Z max 1 in oil 1 in gas ,it cured my problem after about 200 mi might not ever work again but it did this time,
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