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  #3511 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2013, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Looks fantastic! I like the idea of covering the radiator, as I've dinged fins myself before! Are you planning on any covers or something to protect the paint from those chains possibly rubbing the adjacent area?
I have clear covers for the chains and smaller ones for the hooks ,I just loose fit to make sure they fit properly and for picture,i will put covers on when I install tailgate and tail lights,thinking about flush mount LED lights or some thing else ,don't know what lights yet,

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  #3512 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Well I finally got the bed and radiator and supports mounted,,The cardboard is to protect me from My self,try not to bend fins, mounted the S/S chains and tailgate hinges ,now I need tail lights any one have any suggestions of what kind of light might look good on here.and whwre would you mount them.
Speedway.com has several different types of taillights to choose from. I have the '50 Pontiac taillights on my T-bucket and they even have the glass lenses like the originals. There is an elongated taillight that might look better on your application, also.
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  #3513 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2013, 07:56 PM
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United Pacific has a great variety of tailights in LED's also. I bought the 2.5" round ones for my Austin, from a local UP rep. The prices were very good on them!
They're not quite flush, but close:
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  #3514 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2013, 08:01 PM
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Pulled out my interior (again) today, to begin removing and installing the new headliner. Cut the old headliner between bows to vacuum as I went. The mice had moved into this old Falcon when it was stored in a barn, and I needed to vacuum a lot of nests out. I also got a surprise when something stuck on the end of the nozzle, and I pulled out a dead mouse skeleton!
Got the new headliner mostly in and the trim painted and installed, but now comes the hard part when doing a headliner with the windshield and rear window in; tucking the edge into the rubber trim.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:24 PM
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Never tried to install a headliner ,but I guess I will try on my truck ,if I mess up I will have to pay some one to fix my mistakes..PETA will be knocking on your door LOL

The lights look great in the Austin great fit between hinges and edge and correct size for the panel,I think the problem I am going to have is my panel below tailgate is where I would like to have the lights is only about 6 in tall but it has a lip top and bottom that turns in ,then the tailgate covers about 3 in of that at top,dont leave much room for lights ,,nay be strip LED but then I would have to repaint rear panel again Thanks for the input I will look up sight you posted see what they offer,
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  #3516 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2013, 08:26 PM
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One more question did you make the nerf bars or buy them.
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  #3517 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2013, 09:18 PM
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Finally ... something to add to this thread!

Bash or Cut method of firewall modification?
Yeah, I went with the slash and hack method.
It remains to be seen if I made the right choice or not.








See my journal for all the gory details.
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  #3518 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:05 PM
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With the Monroe (Wa) swap meet happening this weekend, I spent the day "de-winterizing" my travel trailer in prep for attendance. Flushing out water lines (flush the pink RV anti-freeze out) re-install battery, flush, drain, flush, drain, flush, drain (etc) the water tank, test propane stuff (one tank has a leaky valve dammit - and it's a full tank, too!)

Test all the electric stuff (lights, brakes, charging system etc)

Repack wheel bearings and adjust brakes

Adjust tension on coupler

Test the A/C (won't need it this weekend, but that's a part of my spring maint routine)

Tomorrow: Wash the trailer and it's ready to go! Hope to be on the road by lunch time.
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  #3519 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2013, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC View Post
Bash or Cut method of firewall modification?
Yeah, I went with the slash and hack method.
It remains to be seen if I made the right choice or not.








See my journal for all the gory details.
What are the cuts for,
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  #3520 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2013, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Never tried to install a headliner ,but I guess I will try on my truck ,if I mess up I will have to pay some one to fix my mistakes..PETA will be knocking on your door LOL

The lights look great in the Austin great fit between hinges and edge and correct size for the panel,I think the problem I am going to have is my panel below tailgate is where I would like to have the lights is only about 6 in tall but it has a lip top and bottom that turns in ,then the tailgate covers about 3 in of that at top,dont leave much room for lights ,,nay be strip LED but then I would have to repaint rear panel again Thanks for the input I will look up sight you posted see what they offer,
As you can see that panel area on the trunk drop is very small also! These lights being under 3" round just fit in there.
I have done three headliners, and mainly because I'm cheap. A headliner is usually about $50 for a nice one, but if you have them installed the price is around $400. Most of that cost is labor, and that involves pulling the windshiled and rear window most the time. If they can be installed without pulling the glass the cost goes down a couple hundred. When I did the headliner in my '71 Camaro I had shops tell me it waas impossible to do without pulling the glass. They were wrong, as I figured out a way, and it was pretty easy. I glued the edges with contact cement, and clipped them in place with large paper clips, then carefully tucked the material under the rubber trim with a dulled putty knife. I'm doing the same on the Falcon, but because of the odd angles I'll have to make a tool to tuck the material that is 90 degrees and can get into the odd angles.
I built the nerf bars on the Austin. Fronts are smaller and curved, and rears larger to have more of a push bar look. Here's the front bars that are 1/2" rod. Rears are 1" heavy wall tube, with plugs welded in the ends.
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  #3521 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2013, 02:22 PM
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I made a 2nd rod setup in the closet for more clothes to hang. I asked a boss if she would like to go on a date sometime...her reply thank you! but we cant due to work so kind of confused about that one so been thinking of how to take it. Going to the first city cruise of the year downtown tonight, as usual ill be taking pics and ill stick em in an album on my profile. For a small town theres usually a decent turn out. I was trying to have enough done on the truck to take her down but my back ordeal screwed that up. But its only spring and summers on its way!
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  #3522 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2013, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC View Post
Bash or Cut method of firewall modification?
Yeah, I went with the slash and hack method.
It remains to be seen if I made the right choice or not.

See my journal for all the gory details.
If you cut, (as you have) then just be sure you cut enough for clearance, and also for clearance to remove valve covers for maintenance. Nothing worse than cutting, and then filling in and finding out later you should have cut more. Also make cuts that are large enough to easily fill in. Sometimes they look better if you can enlarge them, so the repair panel is less obvious.
That's a pretty minor cut. Try setting a BBC in a early Falcon, and cutting most the firewall out and building it back several inches. Or as my Austin, where I simply chopped the whole firewall out, and built it back 10"-12" to fit a 327 Chevy.
I try to never beat or bash, as it's cleaner to just cut and do a nice repair.
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  #3523 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2013, 05:02 PM
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It should have fit without any mods at all ,this is a 63 Chevy in the shop with a Radical 427 BBC ,Muncie M22 4 speed it was a direct bolt in with 69 Chevlle Standard BBC mounts ,if you use SBC the engine sits to far to the rear..
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  #3524 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2013, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
What are the cuts for,
Just to clear those tall BBC valve covers.
The LH side worries me a little, because of the brace for the steering column and brake pedal. It might be a little tough to fab a patch and maintain the structural integrity if the brace.

I will also have to cut up the transmission tunnel for a little more clearance.
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  #3525 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2013, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
It should have fit without any mods at all ,this is a 63 Chevy in the shop with a Radical 427 BBC ,Muncie M22 4 speed it was a direct bolt in with 69 Chevlle Standard BBC mounts ,if you use SBC the engine sits to far to the rear..
I used the complete front cross-member from a 1979 C20 (the same truck that the donor engine and trans came out of.) I also used the engine mounts and brackets.

1976 C10 steering linkage and even the sway bar off of the 79 C20 (beefy!) also fit like a glove with only the need to re-drill holes in the frame for the idler arm.

Mid-70's 454 headers also fit very nicely ... so I think the engine is in the proper position.


Looking at your valve-covers, they appear to be stock height. If I had known this before doing the build ... I probably would have went with stock rockers instead of roller rockers.

PS. I see a heater block-off plate on your firewall. Did you go with an aftermarket A/C unit like Vintage Air ... or did you use something else? I doubt that I'll go to the expense of AC here in Alberta ... but a heater/defroster might be nice. I was thinking of pillaging an Astro van ... small and compact.

Last edited by 66GMC; 05-17-2013 at 05:39 PM.
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