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  #3871 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2013, 09:07 PM
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Seems to work good ,still holding when he sold it, one thing I remember he drilled a small hole at the end of the crack he said it would keep it from cracking farther, IT was my Dad.

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  #3872 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2013, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Seems to work good ,still holding when he sold it, one thing I remember he drilled a small hole at the end of the crack he said it would keep it from cracking farther, IT was my Dad.
He knew what he was talking about. Always drill the hole
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  #3873 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2013, 09:43 PM
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Very productive day! I got the running mock up engine final mounted and centered in the MG today, mini starter mounted ,connected internal sub-frame to the "strut tower" brace.Turned both rear brake drums wire wheeled all "hard parts" on the drum internals POR 15'd them installed new springs wheel cylinders made brake lines running to rear brake hose union. Tomorrow's project will be final mounting Vega rear-end maybe a little more trimming away on the body and measuring for drive shaft. Finish running brake lines bend roll cage halo burn it and the down bars in. Right now my estimate for drive-shaft length is 13-14.5 inches center of u-joint to center of u-joint.
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  #3874 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I saw a man weld a crack in an old jeep fender with a clothes hanger and a torch.
The clothes hanger is made from steel so why not. It could be very close in composition to store bought rod, just doesn't have the copper plating.

Forgot to mention, gas welding is only better when fusing the panels or using steel filler rod, not the brass brazing rod.
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  #3875 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 04:49 AM
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Well, today (yesterday), I got the other side of all my brackets painted before starting the tiling in my basement washroom. Man, do I hate doing anything other than than hot rod stuff.

A bit more to do today and then the grouting fun starts. I don't think the AC will be running in my truck any time soon.
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  #3876 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 05:29 AM
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I was hoping you had the remodel behind you Pugs.....
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  #3877 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 05:46 AM
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well this is a more of a working on then what i worked on but....
anyways its just about light enough outside now that i can get to work on the iroc plan for the day is to wire up the radio/speakers and amps, and then finish all the wiring up under the hood.

after that im going to attempet to fix the hood so the body lines match up, seems like the wind caught one side of the hood and tweaked it, if not ill end up buying a steel or fiberglass cowl hood for it before painting the car
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  #3878 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 05:53 AM
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well this is a more of a working on then what i worked on but....
anyways its just about light enough outside now that i can get to work on the iroc plan for the day is to wire up the radio/speakers and amps, and then finish all the wiring up under the hood.

after that im going to attempet to fix the hood so the body lines match up, seems like the wind caught one side of the hood and tweaked it, if not ill end up buying a steel or fiberglass cowl hood for it before painting the car
If it will help you, search for the "basics of basics" of hood adjustments. Lots of really good info on dealing with tweaked hood hinges.

For those who are surfing the forums and read this thread the "basics of basics" tutorials are a wealth of information. I highly recommend them.
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  #3879 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
If it will help you, search for the "basics of basics" of hood adjustments. Lots of really good info on dealing with tweaked hood hinges.

For those who are surfing the forums and read this thread the "basics of basics" tutorials are a wealth of information. I highly recommend them.
thanks, ill deffinatly give it a read , i think its the hood itself that is tweaked and not the hinges but i got nothing to loose by reading it
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  #3880 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 06:58 AM
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thanks, ill deffinatly give it a read , i think its the hood itself that is tweaked and not the hinges but i got nothing to loose by reading it
Yes, a tweaked hood is a whole different animal. Good luck.

John
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  #3881 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 07:28 AM
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Yes, a tweaked hood is a whole different animal. Good luck.

John
But the same principal. A block of wood in the right spot will straighten a tweaked hood quickly.

I worked at the Ford plant in the early seventies for a year and I'd watch the cars come down the line for final fit and inspection. The hoods, doors, trunk lids were sometimes way out of line and those guys had 2.5-3 minutes to get them done. They had a set of various wooden blocks and wedges and just bent whatever didn't match until it did. Once in a while they would loosen a bolt but most of it was just done with the blocks and bending. Course, after you've bent a few hundred cars a day for years, they could do it in thier sleep...
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  #3882 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
If it will help you, search for the "basics of basics" of hood adjustments. Lots of really good info on dealing with tweaked hood hinges.

For those who are surfing the forums and read this thread the "basics of basics" tutorials are a wealth of information. I highly recommend them.
Thanks John, and if you didn't know, here is a collection of most of them. Basics Of Basics - Autobodystore There are still a number that got lost somewhere in the ozone layer but Len at Autobodystore re-wrote mine reposting the photos on another server so he saved a lot of photos that I have lost so it's pretty neat he did that.

Brian
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  #3883 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
But the same principal. A block of wood in the right spot will straighten a tweaked hood quickly.

I worked at the Ford plant in the early seventies for a year and I'd watch the cars come down the line for final fit and inspection. The hoods, doors, trunk lids were sometimes way out of line and those guys had 2.5-3 minutes to get them done. They had a set of various wooden blocks and wedges and just bent whatever didn't match until it did. Once in a while they would loosen a bolt but most of it was just done with the blocks and bending. Course, after you've bent a few hundred cars a day for years, they could do it in thier sleep...
I have to tell you, I had been in the body business many years when I took my first tour thru an automotive assembly plant. It was the old GM plant building in Fremont, which had became "NUMMI" which basically was Toyota. I had been tweeking doors, trunks and hoods for years and thought it to be a little "trick" that was close to "hack", I don't know why but I thought it to be "cheating" to do this. I think because other bodymen had looked at it this way, don't know why I listened to them, I had figured out how to make the panel fit better, but I was doing something wrong? I just thought it was cheating that's all. Anyway, I was in the NUMMI plant and was blown away to see them using all MY tricks on the final assembly! The doors of the car were coming to the assembled car right at the end of the line, assembled door coming down to the car off an overhead conveyer right at the very end of the line. As they bolted the doors on, checking fit, they took large hammers with a blunt chisel like device and WHACKING the striker to get it moved a small amount for perfect alignment, they had a block of rubber on the end of a handle they stuck in the doors hinge closing the door on it to tweek the hinge like I show in my "Sprung door repair" thread, I was blown away at the mount of twisting and bending they did to the doors for the final fit, one of the best in the industry I must say.

And shouldered bolts, I would remove the shouldered bolts on late model cars to be able to move the door, trunk, or hood a bit and I had guys saying "you can't do that", sure enough right in the Toyota panel installation guidelines it had to remove the shouldered bolts for better alignment! LOL

Yep, bending and tweeking for perfect fit is HOW you align, it isn't cheating, it's knowing the tricks of the trade.

I wish this guy worked at the shop where I work to do the final fit. NOTHING ticks me off more than poor fit on a panel where perfect fit was RIGHT THERE for the taking. But instead they let the customer find that the door is dragging or something and THEN they fix it. Of course spending WAY too much time because they haven't a clue how to do it!


Brian
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  #3884 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 07:53 AM
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Nope.

Gas welding body panels is the best there is. Of all the different methods, gas welds are the most pliable and less prone to cracking.
Wouldnt that depand on the rod your using, puggs...with mig wire I would think the weld would be a little hard (like a mig weld) but I havent gas welded any sheetmetal since the 70's I was never any good at it so the mig was my saviour. and it wasnt the tip size because I couldnt even gas weld muffler pipe ...so all I use my torches for is cutting heavy stuff and heating metal for forming.
..............A mans gotta know his limitations.......Clint E.
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  #3885 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 07:59 AM
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I'll have to look into that jeweler's torch Brian. That's pretty cool. And the MIG wire is a good idea too.
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