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  #3901 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 11:53 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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You have the right idea on the repair, lube the hinges so it closes a little easier. Often the hinge is so stiff that closing it bends the hood!

Brian

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  #3902 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
You have the right idea on the repair, lube the hinges so it closes a little easier. Often the hinge is so stiff that closing it bends the hood!

Brian
car had brand new gas struts on the hood hinges , i drilled them so they didnt work anymore. its pretty common on these cars for that to happen and it tweaking the hood .

never was a fan of those gas struts, either there to strong , or really weak and u have the hood or trunk come crashing down on ur head. ill take an old fashoned proprod any day over a hood or trunk with struts to hold them up
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  #3903 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 06:16 AM
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new front bearing in sport trac, what a %#%# .
You's guys that don't have the rust monster that welds things together.
count u'r blessings
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  #3904 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
car had brand new gas struts on the hood hinges , i drilled them so they didnt work anymore. its pretty common on these cars for that to happen and it tweaking the hood .

never was a fan of those gas struts, either there to strong , or really weak and u have the hood or trunk come crashing down on ur head. ill take an old fashoned proprod any day over a hood or trunk with struts to hold them up
I forgot those use the struts. Yeah some of the factory geometry can be so goofy. On late model Ford Explorers (I think it is the Explorer, I have little love for these things so I forget) on the rear window they had a shock to hold it up. The problem was this shock was mounted too close to the hinge, literally about a third of the way between the hinge and the end of the glass, the leverage created by this poor design was putting WAY too much pressure on the glass when you pulled it down. And yes, they were breaking, this tempered glass window was breaking! They simply got longer shocks moving the mounting point on the glass further away from the hinge (as well as put a plastic inner structure) and that fixed the problem. But it was one of those things that you look at and go "really?" Wasn't this clearly a poor design from the start?

Brian
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  #3905 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 09:19 AM
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Great .picture of cab photo looks like you recessed fire wall ,I wish I had moved mine back while I had it cut out, as I Need the extra room.,is that a 235 Blue Flame Six. tri power ,aluminum head Early Vette ,
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  #3906 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 09:34 AM
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Great .picture of cab photo looks like you recessed fire wall ,I wish I had moved mine back while I had it cut out, as I Need the extra room.,is that a 235 Blue Flame Six. tri power ,aluminum head Early Vette ,
That is exactly what it is.


The firewall isn't recessed, if it looks any different to you it's because the cab is sectioned. The piece over the top of firewall is narrower so the firewall goes up further on the cowl.

Brian
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  #3907 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
car had brand new gas struts on the hood hinges , i drilled them so they didnt work anymore. its pretty common on these cars for that to happen and it tweaking the hood .

never was a fan of those gas struts, either there to strong , or really weak and u have the hood or trunk come crashing down on ur head. ill take an old fashoned proprod any day over a hood or trunk with struts to hold them up
I love them , I open hood/deck and drill a hole (iirc 1/8" or a tad bigger) in the chrome rod, then I get a clip like the ones for trailer hitch pins ,those spring clips ,the name escapes me at the moment. and then drill the shock to make it dead.
add stud under hood somewhere with 2 holes and now I have a hood that not bonk me on the head and no prop rod to get in the way. when done put the clips on the stud for safe keeping..
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  #3908 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 10:01 AM
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boring day today. pulled balancer, and degreased the heads/block and water pump and sprayed them 3 lite coats and one coat of clear.

now wait 24 hours

so mowed lawn.

now order parts.. then bed.
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  #3909 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 01:45 PM
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I love them , I open hood/deck and drill a hole (iirc 1/8" or a tad bigger) in the chrome rod, then I get a clip like the ones for trailer hitch pins ,those spring clips ,the name escapes me at the moment. and then drill the shock to make it dead.
add stud under hood somewhere with 2 holes and now I have a hood that not bonk me on the head and no prop rod to get in the way. when done put the clips on the stud for safe keeping..
nice idea i may have to steal that one, if i cant use a prop rod i usually use a pair of small vise grips one on each strut to keep the hood open
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  #3910 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I forgot those use the struts. Yeah some of the factory geometry can be so goofy. On late model Ford Explorers (I think it is the Explorer, I have little love for these things so I forget) on the rear window they had a shock to hold it up. The problem was this shock was mounted too close to the hinge, literally about a third of the way between the hinge and the end of the glass, the leverage created by this poor design was putting WAY too much pressure on the glass when you pulled it down. And yes, they were breaking, this tempered glass window was breaking! They simply got longer shocks moving the mounting point on the glass further away from the hinge (as well as put a plastic inner structure) and that fixed the problem. But it was one of those things that you look at and go "really?" Wasn't this clearly a poor design from the start?

Brian
haha sometimes u would just love to meet the engineer that came up with certian things on whatever car and kick him square in the nuts
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  #3911 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 05:29 PM
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Final weld on 9" rear housing ends. Had them spot welded during mock up.. Getting hard to see my welds thru the helmet. Got a bit of grinding to do on some excess weld bead..
Cut axle shafts to length. Took everything to the local quarter car wash. Dang! six quarters to start the thing!! Cleaned out housing with car wash soap/water/brakleen. Lots of rags. Started to bolt everything together and can't find the box of 9" gaskets! Two complete rear end sets somewhere, put em where I'd never lose em.. and I'm tapping out gaskets with hammer, razor and leather punch, from sheet gasket stock.. Maybe a better day tomorrow!!
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  #3912 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 05:41 PM
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Started fabricating the RF body mount and finished the A pillar down to the rocker panel.

Went to the local cruise in at the Sonic tonight. good bunch of guys.

John
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  #3913 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 05:50 PM
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Forgot about the Sonic ,Had planned on coming and try to swing by and see your project waiting on paint to dry could not work on my truck,so I ended up mowing part of my yard ,much had rather been at Sonic and meeting some of the guys ..mabe nex time
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  #3914 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 06:06 PM
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I was going to go to our local dept store parking lot where a bunch of car guys and their rides get together on friday nights after work. unfortunatly i backed my lawn tractor into my coupe rear fender and tail light. had to pull the fender off cut the wires take it to my friends garage to straighten out the dent and re-prime and sealer. glad its still in primer. car show this weekend.
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  #3915 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 06:49 PM
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Got back on the Falcon today, and put my trunk mounted battery box in. Then ran the cables, and installed battery cutoff switch. After that I hooked up my remote starter sw. and cranked the engine over to adjust the valves.
Got more wiring done to the front and installed my QD connectors to make pulling the tilt front easier. Had my neighbor help me reinstall the tilt frontend, and I need to do more trimming than I thought. With the pivot/tilt system, the front moves forward 5.5", and then tilts. That made the rear edge too narrow to clear the bug catcher. I'll have to trim another .5"-1" on each side to clear easily. After that I can bend up my edge trim, and weld a raised lip to the opening to dress it, and help make it stronger.

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