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  #4276 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2013, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
That is a good looking shroud David. How did it effect your interstate driving.

John
I have not got to drive it on the road since I installed the shroud ,just running in the shop to break in the cam,it ran really hot without the shroud I could not run it over 3 minutes with out overheating now I can idle or run at 2000 rpm for break in app 20 minutes no problem ,,overheating at road speed tends to be a water circulation problem ,overheating at idle is usually a air flow problem ,NOT always but most of the time .

My electric fan is a two speed low comes when you turn on a/c and high comes on at 185 ,Adjustable thermostat, I have an over ride switvh a DPDT,so I can turn on low or high manually or leave on automatic,

Just a note ,the black strip at top is not a gap it is a rubber seal to force All air to come thru radiator core.

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Last edited by 496CHEVY3100; 07-03-2013 at 08:13 PM.
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  #4277 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2013, 09:07 PM
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I agree with you concerning the high speed cooling under most circumstances but.... When I installed the shroud on my roadster it completely eliminated any low speed heating but it did raise the temp on the interstate. The shroud actually obstructs the air flow at 70 mph. Cooling Componants installs rubber flaps in the bottom of their shrouds to aid in the air flow at speed. I find that running the fan on mine has a surprizing effect. You would expect that the air pressure at 70 mph would eliminate any effect that the fan would have but that is not the case.

Usually high speed cooling is a matter of radiator size but air flow is always important.

John

Last edited by John long; 07-03-2013 at 09:30 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #4278 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 12:00 AM
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so we got this guy that's in love with his mid 80's Firebird and we strengthened his rear shock mounts then he decided he wants to paint it. So I got a kick out of taking it apart. I can't recall doing one of these but I went right for the meat n potatoes and stripped down the doors as the other guy handled the bumpers, randomly having a peek so I can get a quick look at how the bumpers come off. Seemed sort of like Vette bumpers and breaking down the doors reminded me of a particular Sebring (annoying). It had two things that were alike. They both had belt mouldings that screw in from the back side w/ the window down and they both require the window DOWN to get at one bolt for the mirror and then the window UP to get to the other mirror bolt. Just stupid I tell you. Tomorrow we work til 2, have some beers, and call it the week. Sounds much better then coming in on Friday.
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  #4279 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Normaly a hot idle is an air flow problem not a water flow problem in my experience ,are you running a fan shroud and a two speed fan ,and is thermostat housing lower than radiator car to prevent air pockets,,,i had to make a shroud for my radiator fan it would overheat at idle 220 and still going had to shut it down and leave fan running to cool it down ,after I made the fan shroud it rons about 190 idle as long as I need to, this might not be your problem but it sounds like it.
It runs hot at speed, or idle, but hotter at idle. I'm running an aluminum triple pass 19"x24" radiator, with two 1" rows. Also running a electric puller fan, and it's single speed 2800 cfm Spal. The fan comes on at 180 degrees, and it pretty much runs all the time with the temps the engine runs at. I am going to try an auxillary radiator to see if it's capacity, or air flow, and run cooling fans on it also.
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  #4280 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 01:29 AM
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somrtimes finding the problem can be hard to find ,and most of the time it is something small overlooked on my red Z28 I have an engine that was originaly built for a dirt circle car so it needs lots of cooling ,it has Air but I cant run it,i put a 160 thermostat alun heads 4 core aluminum radiator with the munual 6 blade flex fan and a 14 in electric fan and a high volume water pump when I put it together to avoid any overheating problems,But that didn't work either, it ran around 210 when driving around 50 mph but if I drove 60 65 it would overheat 230+ in less than 1/2 mile so I could slow down the temp would drop, I tried removing thermostat and using a restrictor like we use in our race cars (a flat disc with a 5/8 hole ) still hot ,tried an adjustable timing retard MSD it helped some I changed to 2 1/2 in exaust helped a little,then a fellow racer told me to see if the shaft driven fan and the electric fan shaft were in line with each other if not they were fighting against each other ,restricting air flow and remove the high volume water pump circulated to fast fpr radiator to cool ,Thet were not so I moved the electric fan down where shafts align and replaced pump with a stock one ,it stopped running hot about 185 at cruise 65-70 with 411 gears but I still cannot turn on air it will run extremely hot in less than 1/4 mile. the previous post is my truck
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  #4281 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 09:17 AM
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I worked overtime so came home bushed but got out there for my 5 minutes, which turned into a half hour. Got some fine tuning done on the roof posts. It isn't much but damn it, it's better than nothing at all.

I just found a photo of this door brace/window stop that I took the other day when I got the door back together. I post this just show how goofy I am. I had removed this from the door thinking it had to be moved. My brain hasn't been doing this stuff in a while and I had a total brain fart. I am looking at moving it, because of the chop or the section, I don't know what was in my head but then it dawned on me later (much later) that it welded to the upper part of the door as well as the bottom, all I had to do was drill the spot welds from the bottom and re-weld it when the bottom of the shell was re-attached. For some reason I was thinking it had to be raised because I chopped the top! WTH? Friggin oldtimers disease.

It's back in there right were it was to begin with.

Brian

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  #4282 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 09:22 AM
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I think we all get those moments ... Or the dreaded SQUIRREL ... I'm out in the garage working on the rear of my truck and next thing I'm in the cab , poof I'm out working on the Austin! (Not getting ANY of the jobs done )
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  #4283 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
somrtimes finding the problem can be hard to find ,and most of the time it is something small overlooked on my red Z28 I have an engine that was originaly built for a dirt circle car so it needs lots of cooling ,it has Air but I cant run it,i put a 160 thermostat alun heads 4 core aluminum radiator with the munual 6 blade flex fan and a 14 in electric fan and a high volume water pump when I put it together to avoid any overheating problems,But that didn't work either, it ran around 210 when driving around 50 mph but if I drove 60 65 it would overheat 230+ in less than 1/2 mile so I could slow down the temp would drop, I tried removing thermostat and using a restrictor like we use in our race cars (a flat disc with a 5/8 hole ) still hot ,tried an adjustable timing retard MSD it helped some I changed to 2 1/2 in exaust helped a little,then a fellow racer told me to see if the shaft driven fan and the electric fan shaft were in line with each other if not they were fighting against each other ,restricting air flow and remove the high volume water pump circulated to fast fpr radiator to cool ,Thet were not so I moved the electric fan down where shafts align and replaced pump with a stock one ,it stopped running hot about 185 at cruise 65-70 with 411 gears but I still cannot turn on air it will run extremely hot in less than 1/4 mile. the previous post is my truck
Thanks for the info David! I'm leaning towards not enough radiator, as I've always found BBC engines to run warmer, and thought the triple pass aluminum radiator might handle this, even though it was smaller at 19"x24".
I ran a monster 19"x32" on my 427 in the '71 Camaro, and it rarely got over 165 cruising, and maybe 190 at extended idling in hot weather. I'm need to decide if I can add cooling area without major modification, and hope that does the trick.
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  #4284 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 11:09 AM
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I never thought about an auxallary radiator like the ,I belive Farrari ot BUGGATTI Veyron They have several small radiators one in each rear quarter at the scoops and some laying flat under car with fans ,im sure they spent many hours and dollars testing them so your idea probably should work.

Edit : the Buggatti Veyron has 10 radiators for the engine and 3 heat exchangers for the turbos 16 cylinder 4 turbos. WOW

Last edited by 496CHEVY3100; 07-04-2013 at 11:18 AM.
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  #4285 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I never thought about an auxallary radiator like the ,I belive Farrari ot BUGGATTI Veyron They have several small radiators one in each rear quarter at the scoops and some laying flat under car with fans ,im sure they spent many hours and dollars testing them so your idea probably should work.

Edit : the Buggatti Veyron has 10 radiators for the engine and 3 heat exchangers for the turbos 16 cylinder 4 turbos. WOW
We did this with my buddy's Austin A40 and 350 Chevy. Installed two large heater cores up behind the headlights in the fender, and put an 8" Spal fan on each core. When he gets stuck in traffic he turns the fans on and it keeps it cooler.
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  #4286 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 03:41 PM
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I worked at work today and I am heading off to go to my daughters house about 85 miles away right now. But I HAD to go out and put in my five minutes. Got some measuring done for the top and marking so I don't forget stuff!

Have a good Forth guys!

Brian
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  #4287 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 05:31 PM
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Changed the oil in the Expedition and installed a cold air intake in a Z/71. Now it's off to watch the fireworks!
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:34 PM
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I spent an hour or so building up the two new 11"x7" heater cores and a framework to set them in the Falcon. Got them plumbed in, and took it for a drive. They seemed to be working well, but eventually the temperature crept up, just slower than before.
Back to the drawing board!
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  #4289 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 06:23 PM
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decided to work today instead of coming in tomorrow. Finished up a Chevy cab I'm working on and got the 80's Trans Am all stripped down and marked the dings. Should be a quickie cause mostly everything I found was just small dings. Should be able to knock it out on Monday. Then after Monday we start working on the new shop car which is a Vette. We warned the boss to never buy a Vette that they say is "ready for paint" but it is what it is.
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  #4290 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2013, 08:01 PM
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Dash outlets at 2* Celsius today. That's 36* Fahrenheit for you guys south of the border.

I was worried about that as I read a lot of posts about the air coming out at 10* Celsius.

A few headaches during install but when you feel that cool air, the hiccups are easily forgotten.
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