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  #4591 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I have a 86 Camaro doing the same thing will run as long as I am spraying gas in the injectors,,it is my controller box ( computer ) located under passenger side of yhe dash. could be your problem don't know for sure $99 at autozone
Thanks for the tip David! We may end up at the computer. Never dreamed they'd be that cheap though! The injectors were $164 ea. new at the performance store, and $75 at Autozone, so we grabbed two nice used ones at the wrecking yard instead.

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  #4592 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 12:03 PM
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well if it has the red glowing eyes or maybe the leather jacked and glasses I'll pick one up myself. Thanks for the heads up.
Yup, it has the red eyes and part of the face is missing like the terminator and you can see the mechanical workings...
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  #4593 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 12:07 PM
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Have fun at the aquarium. We were there in March. Be sure to walk Cannery Row and stop at the Otter Store just down the block from the aquarium. My son HAD to have a T-shirt with "The Terminotter" on it....
Dont laugh I just read in the news that kids were getting attacked by something in the river ,it turned out to be a river otter..
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  #4594 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 12:07 PM
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check the 2 inj fuses in the fuse box , one wire on each injector should have 12+, the ecm closes the ground wire to fire the injector.

if that all checks out check the ignition moudle in the distributor, if this went bad the ecm will not fire the injectors, also make sure the security light on the dash is not flashing , if it is u need to fix or bypass the vats system

there is also an fuse for the ecm in a single fuse holder on the passenger side fender right behind the headlights, the ignition system will work without the ecm having power to open the injectors

u can also jump the 2 terminals on the aldl connector under the dash with a pair of needle nose pliers or paper clip to get the check engine light to flash and trouble codes that may be stored in the ecm
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  #4595 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
check the 2 inj fuses in the fuse box , one wire on each injector should have 12+, the ecm closes the ground wire to fire the injector.

if that all checks out check the ignition moudle in the distributor, if this went bad the ecm will not fire the injectors, also make sure the security light on the dash is not flashing , if it is u need to fix or bypass the vats system

there is also an fuse for the ecm in a single fuse holder on the passenger side fender right behind the headlights, the ignition system will work without the ecm having power to open the injectors

u can also jump the 2 terminals on the aldl connector under the dash with a pair of needle nose pliers or paper clip to get the check engine light to flash and trouble codes that may be stored in the ecm
We are pretty sure it's not a security issue, as it starts, and runs when fuel is poured into the engine. From what I've heard the security thing wont allow it to fire the plugs, or start if it's acting up.
Checked voltage at injectors today with a meter while cranking. It's 12v. to ground when not cranking, and under 2v. across the terminals while cranking. We also removed connectors at the distributor and ECM to check connections and all looks like new. We dropped back to check fuel pump pressure, and what we had yesterday is gone today. The pump runs, and the relay pulls in, but no pressure at either side of the fuel filter. So at this point it's either a bad pump, bad pickup, or a bad pickup to sending unit connector in the fuel pump. Either way, it appears the tank will need to drop, and see if it's a repair or replacement in the tank.
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  #4596 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 02:24 PM
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We are pretty sure it's not a security issue, as it starts, and runs when fuel is poured into the engine. From what I've heard the security thing wont allow it to fire the plugs, or start if it's acting up.
Checked voltage at injectors today with a meter while cranking. It's 12v. to ground when not cranking, and under 2v. across the terminals while cranking. We also removed connectors at the distributor and ECM to check connections and all looks like new. We dropped back to check fuel pump pressure, and what we had yesterday is gone today. The pump runs, and the relay pulls in, but no pressure at either side of the fuel filter. So at this point it's either a bad pump, bad pickup, or a bad pickup to sending unit connector in the fuel pump. Either way, it appears the tank will need to drop, and see if it's a repair or replacement in the tank.
before u drop the tank , pull the carpet back in the trunk, fold the rear seats down and it should pull right back.

alot of the fbodys of this generation have fuel pump acess doors cut into the trunk by a previous owner. i never checked mine and when i droped the tank low and behold somone had already cut an access panel out.

unless ur friend is the original owner its deffinatly worth checking to see if it has a acess panel , if it does it will save u a few hours of time
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  #4597 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 02:52 PM
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and people wonder why I prefer a car with a carb!
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  #4598 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 03:14 PM
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and people wonder why I prefer a car with a carb!
i like carbs better as well , but on my twin turbo car at this altitude and not to mention i could go up or down 1-2k ft depending on which direction i drive fuel injection was a better choice.

im having some issues with my tbi injected truck right now, im about ready to throw the tbi in the scrap pile and put a carb on it
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  #4599 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
before u drop the tank , pull the carpet back in the trunk, fold the rear seats down and it should pull right back.

alot of the fbodys of this generation have fuel pump acess doors cut into the trunk by a previous owner. i never checked mine and when i droped the tank low and behold somone had already cut an access panel out.

unless ur friend is the original owner its deffinatly worth checking to see if it has a acess panel , if it does it will save u a few hours of time
Already checked out that possibility, as I did a fuel pump change on a 4th gen by cutting an access door into the hump over the fuel tank a couple years ago. But unfortunately the 3rd gens can't be accessed through a hole, as they have hard lines that lead from the tank sending unit/fuel pump down the side to the rubber hoses at the bottom of the tank. This creates an obstruction that would require cutting out most of the sheetmetal over the tank to allow it all to pull straight up to remove the pump.
Tried several Google searches in hopes of an alternative, but everything says the exhaust, and rearend all have to drop to allow the tank to drop and access the gas tank.
He's the 2nd owner, but the car was only driven for 10 years and parked for (of all things) a hole in the muffler! The lady who owned it only put 150k on it, and it sat ever since 2002. Looks like a brand new car inside and out, and she sold it for $700. not running.
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  #4600 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 06:44 PM
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Already checked out that possibility, as I did a fuel pump change on a 4th gen by cutting an access door into the hump over the fuel tank a couple years ago. But unfortunately the 3rd gens can't be accessed through a hole, as they have hard lines that lead from the tank sending unit/fuel pump down the side to the rubber hoses at the bottom of the tank. This creates an obstruction that would require cutting out most of the sheetmetal over the tank to allow it all to pull straight up to remove the pump.
Tried several Google searches in hopes of an alternative, but everything says the exhaust, and rearend all have to drop to allow the tank to drop and access the gas tank.
He's the 2nd owner, but the car was only driven for 10 years and parked for (of all things) a hole in the muffler! The lady who owned it only put 150k on it, and it sat ever since 2002. Looks like a brand new car inside and out, and she sold it for $700. not running.
u dont have to cut a huge hole on the thridgens , but u do have to cut the hardlines and then it will come out the hole. i can take pictures of what was done on mine to give u a good idea.

im changing mine out for all an lines since i run very high fuel presure 58psi base about 85 psi at full boost , but mine they flared the ends of the cut lines and dbl clamnped the rubber hoses on both sides.

with the low presure of a tbi system that will work perfectly but i would still use high presure f.i hose clamps instead of regular worm clamps


wow 700 bucks thats the steal of the century i know guys that would paid alot more if its as nice as u say
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  #4601 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 06:54 PM
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this is what im going to do on mine cause im afriad of the rubber hose/clamps blowing off under very high fuel presure


heres a picture of how everyone cuts and rejoins the lines

not one of the neatest ones ive seen done , but if u cut the lines were those are u only have to cut a fairly small access panel
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  #4602 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 06:54 PM
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u dont have to cut a huge hole on the thridgens , but u do have to cut the hardlines and then it will come out the hole. i can take pictures of what was done on mine to give u a good idea.

im changing mine out for all an lines since i run very high fuel presure 58psi base about 85 psi at full boost , but mine they flared the ends of the cut lines and dbl clamnped the rubber hoses on both sides.

with the low presure of a tbi system that will work perfectly but i would still use high presure f.i hose clamps instead of regular worm clamps


wow 700 bucks thats the steal of the century i know guys that would paid alot more if its as nice as u say
I'd like to see the pics if you don't mind PM or email to me? Wonder how they cut the lines with them laying flat against the tank? Maybe knocked the retainer ring loose, and then cut them with a saw? They're too close together to use a tubing cutter.
Yeah, we found this car at a garage sale under a pile of clothes and boxes. 1991 Camaro RZ with T tops, 5 speed, and 100% original. White with red cloth interior, and the only thing not perfect cosmetically was burn spots on the backseat, where the owner tossed out her cigarette ash, and it came back in a few times. Once it's running he's going to have the interior repaired, and it will be perfect.
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  #4603 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 06:57 PM
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I'd like to see the pics if you don't mind PM or email to me? Wonder how they cut the lines with them laying flat against the tank? Maybe knocked the retainer ring loose, and then cut them with a saw? They're too close together to use a tubing cutter.
Yeah, we found this car at a garage sale under a pile of clothes and boxes. 1991 Camaro RZ with T tops, 5 speed, and 100% original. White with red cloth interior, and the only thing not perfect cosmetically was burn spots on the backseat, where the owner tossed out her cigarette ash, and it came back in a few times. Once it's running he's going to have the interior repaired, and it will be perfect.

a small tubing cutter works, just knock the retaining ring out and u can lift them up enough to get a tubing cutter around the lines.
i highly dont recomend using a saw to cut them but i have heard of ppl using a hand held hacksaw and going very slow while spraying lots of wd-40 while they cut
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  #4604 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:01 PM
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Oops! We were posting at the same time! Thanks for the pics!
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  #4605 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:04 PM
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Oops! We were posting at the same time! Thanks for the pics!
no problem i figured u would want to see pics so i just googled some real fast for ya
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