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  #5416 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 12:28 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Today Nick chased some threads in the caged nuts and hood hinges, we went and got some bolts I didn't have (1/4" 28) and he put the hinges in and we installed the hood.



What a mutha that was! Simple as putting a hood on should be, it is NOT on this car. LOL Wow, the hinges mount from under the front panel, they have four bolts, then two more in the front on a vertical part of the hinge that goes up to the leading edge of where the hood meets the header panel. I figured they were overkill so we would leave them out until we are doing something more permanent to the panel, right now we are just getting a feel for it. I wanted him to get the hood on so feel a little more up close and personal with the car. Putting the hood on the hinges was a BEEEAACH, holy crap, they make it hard. I always ask my self "How do did they put it on at the factory"? That usually opens up a mind to see things differently and come up with a better way, not this time. I have no friggin idea how they could put this on any better than we did, chipping the new paint and all.

So after we get the hood on it's too low in the front, DAMN those bolts I decided to have him leave out ARE damn important, the hinges flex there and the hood goes down.



That and the whole the hood fits into is too narrow for the hood! LOL, ahhhhh, yes we are learning something. It appears that the bodies on these cars may come in from fatigue being the suspension pushes up and in right there on the unibody structure, hmmmmm ok, we are learning.

Tomorrow's a new day.

Check out the odd steering system, the pitman arm goes above and below the box with the lower going to a tie rod to the left wheel, the upper one going to a link across to the right side behind the motor!





Oh, and I think I found the reason why the motor doesn't run.



Brian

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  #5417 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 01:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Well it will be an "Alpine" I guess. He wouldn't want a fake Tiger so what ever it is will be a hot rod Alpine. I am thinking he has the 2300 and its mounts are the same as the V6 (I am thinking) so put the 2300 in there and later put a V6, we will see. That is a long way down the road.

Brian
You are correct in the mounts being the same. Another trick might be looking into a Turbo 2.3 from a Merkur X4-TI
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  #5418 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 07:07 AM
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Brian ,The problem with cutting square tubing is getting a square cut, you need a chop saw....The problem with a chop saw is it wont make a compound miter and most of your cuts on that project will be compound miters ...what you can do is get a sliding miter saw (for wood) and mount a metal cutting blade on it...or if you really want to get fancy mount the chop saw motor to the miter saw table then mount some clamps to hold down whatever steel your cutting...
I built the frame for my plymouths tilt nose out of squre tube and on the really hard cuts I actually used 1x1 wood until I had the proper cut down and the fit just right then I just cut the square tube. I hate wasting steel by making a cut too short...
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  #5419 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 08:01 AM
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Yesterday I dug out a Ski Doo I haven't seen for 3-4 years. It's been buried in the back of my shop. I cleaned it up and got it running to sell it. If I'm not going to use it, I may as well put the funds to good use on one of my cars....or an addition to the stable....
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  #5420 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Brian ,The problem with cutting square tubing is getting a square cut, you need a chop saw....The problem with a chop saw is it wont make a compound miter and most of your cuts on that project will be compound miters ...what you can do is get a sliding miter saw (for wood) and mount a metal cutting blade on it...or if you really want to get fancy mount the chop saw motor to the miter saw table then mount some clamps to hold down whatever steel your cutting...
I built the frame for my plymouths tilt nose out of squre tube and on the really hard cuts I actually used 1x1 wood until I had the proper cut down and the fit just right then I just cut the square tube. I hate wasting steel by making a cut too short...
I am a big believer in making templates, I never would have thought of doing it with the tubing for some reason, thanks for that tip, I will be using it next time that's for sure.

Brian
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  #5421 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 08:44 AM
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spaghetti

Nothing earth shattering, just cut a 6'x8" hole in the den wall to run the spaghetti through it for the t.v. (2)usb, (3)hdmi,(1)cat6,(1) optical audio,(1)component video,(1)composite video, (1)s video, (1)vga, (1) dvi-d (2)analog audio/rca's , front l&r and center speaker wire (1) 50' cat6 for wireless internet in garage (1)romex for 120v outlet behind t.v.

fun fun fun,
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  #5422 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Brian ,The problem with cutting square tubing is getting a square cut, you need a chop saw....The problem with a chop saw is it wont make a compound miter and most of your cuts on that project will be compound miters ...what you can do is get a sliding miter saw (for wood) and mount a metal cutting blade on it...or if you really want to get fancy mount the chop saw motor to the miter saw table then mount some clamps to hold down whatever steel your cutting...
I built the frame for my plymouths tilt nose out of squre tube and on the really hard cuts I actually used 1x1 wood until I had the proper cut down and the fit just right then I just cut the square tube. I hate wasting steel by making a cut too short...
Good info on the miter saw. I use a 14" Milwaukee chop saw and a horizontal band saw depending on what I'm cutting. The trick I found was buying premium blades. They made all the difference in the world. That and checking every change I make with a square.
Concerning using a miter saw on metal, go slow and use a good cutting fluid. I burnt a miter saw up cutting metal a few years ago.

BB
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  #5423 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I use my chop saws quite often,i have a 10in and a 14 in with fiber blades I have a masonary blade on the 14 in it cuts metal faster than the made for metal blade ,but makes LOTS of dust
if I need to split a piece of round or square tubing I put the fiber blade on the Radial arm saw and swiwel the head 90 degrees then use the rail to make a straight cut and I can adjust the depth I am cutting

I bought a metal cutting blade that looks like a skil saw blade ,but I don't like it ,you MUST wear long sleeve jacket ,heavy gloves full face shield and goggles an head protection and still get metal shavings all over you .
also very expensive or at least to me .Just north of 50 bucks,
Good idea using your radial arm saw. I've never done that with metal.

BB
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  #5424 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 09:19 AM
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A HACKSAW ????? seriously ????? go to the swap meets, watch craigslist or go to harbor freight but get a cheap CHOP SAW. At your age, you deserve to have one...
I don't use mine very often either but it makes a world of difference in the things I fabricate being square and straight.
OMG thank you so much for this brilliant suggestion, CRAIGS LIST! I don't use it enough, thought I have bought a few things I don't think about it enough. I checked on chop saws, holy crap there were TONS of them in the near by areas, some like new brand names for $50-70 AWESOME!

Brian
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  #5425 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 09:24 AM
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"Oh, and I think I found the reason why the motor doesn't run."

Good old Lucas "Prince of Darkness"
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  #5426 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 09:33 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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"Oh, and I think I found the reason why the motor doesn't run."

Good old Lucas "Prince of Darkness"
You got the joke John!

Brian
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  #5427 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 09:57 AM
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OMG thank you so much for this brilliant suggestion, CRAIGS LIST! I don't use it enough, thought I have bought a few things I don't think about it enough. I checked on chop saws, holy crap there were TONS of them in the near by areas, some like new brand names for $50-70 AWESOME!

Brian
pawn shops also..
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  #5428 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 09:57 AM
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Good idea using your radial arm saw. I've never done that with metal.

BB

it works great when I can justify the cost of a wet saw I think I will buy one,probably when I start on the 55 ,I want to build a tilt front (metal ) and install roll bars
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  #5429 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 11:04 AM
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"Oh, and I think I found the reason why the motor doesn't run."

Good old Lucas "Prince of Darkness"
Which brings up the old question,

"Why do Brits drink warm beer?"

"Lucas makes refrigerators."

BB
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  #5430 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 03:03 PM
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There are a trillion Lucas jokes (invented intermittent wipers, light switches have 3 positions - Off, flicker and dim) etc..

Tragically - they are all true!

On my 65 1800S (all LUCAS wiring from the factory) - there are a total of THREE fuses for the whole car! All are humongous size. I just cannot understand how a 30 amp fuse (that also "protects" the heater motor, the tail lights, the dash lights, the radio and other circuits) will protect a dome light circuit - I guess in their minds, while a shorted wire may burn down the whole car, it will protect the fuse from blowing!


That's what after market wiring sets are for!
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