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  #7156 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2014, 11:39 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
As usual that is some good welding you wont have but very little to grind,
I think this is going to be one of the better looking AD just rite chop and I love the windows

Great gaps
Thanks so much, I am having so much fun, I wish I could find my way out there more.

Brian

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  #7157 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 12:01 AM
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did another test piece. Was coming out great til I rolled a part backwards and went up where it was supposed to be pressed down. I like the big transition on the step over the cross hatch but I need to mark where I need to stop the cross hatch. Gonna hammer on it a little bit tomorrow on lunch and blow some primer on it to see what it looks like. Getting there. Next I'll do the other side and start e-wheeling the fenders and tank.
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  #7158 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 08:07 AM
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Very cool, I am thinking the old "arrow" on the tape to know where to make a cut on a panel may come in handy. If you just put an X or what ever on one side to have a visual reminder of which side is up or something like that? I have never done that at all and don't know if you are flipping it back and forth so much that it wouldn't help but maybe?

It's damn cool though, I see you are doing the 49's logo again, are you making something or simply using that for practice?

Brian
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  #7159 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 08:17 AM
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Very cool, I am thinking the old "arrow" on the tape to know where to make a cut on a panel may come in handy. If you just put an X or what ever on one side to have a visual reminder of which side is up or something like that? I have never done that at all and don't know if you are flipping it back and forth so much that it wouldn't help but maybe?

It's damn cool though, I see you are doing the 49's logo again, are you making something or simply using that for practice?

Brian
it's for the neck gusset for my bike. Just a test piece. Don't have the cross hatch area quite as I like and will make a smaller upper die. It's all done on one side. If I were doing a spider web, which I plan on trying soon, I'd be doing the cross hatch style thing(lower skate wheel) on the other side so it pokes out instead of in. I have also learned that when stepping an area that close to the cut line(that was already made) it will distort the edge. I could fix it but next time I will make the final cut after the beads are formed. I mainly wanted to see a bigger transition on the step over the cross hatch cause it looks cleaner. Basically just taking out a washer so the distance is greater between dies. So now when I mark up my panel with a sharpie by measuring the transition to the to the step I can also mark where to stop the cross hatch exactly. This weekend I'm going to make another die with a smaller diameter die and more rounder. I think that will help a lot in making the final pieces. Will also chop up a maple baseball bat I have to make little chisel pieces to final massage the edges. Another thing I did wrong was I didn't massage the edge of the letters before stepping the oval piece. Seems like it would be easier if I had left it completely flat, worked it out, and then stepped it. I'll just try the sand bag on this one though. May look into different gauges of metal as well. Using 18 gauge so maybe I'm making life difficult. Got it for the weldability but maybe not needed if it's going to be riveted to the frame.

Last edited by tech69; 02-13-2014 at 08:25 AM.
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  #7160 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 08:22 AM
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it's for the neck gusset for my bike. Just a test piece. Don't have the cross hatch area quite as I like and will make a smaller upper die. It's all done on one side. If I were doing a spider web, which I plan on trying soon, I'd be doing the cross hatch style thing(lower skate wheel) on the other side so it pokes out instead of in. I have also learned that when stepping an area that close to the cut line(that was already made) it will distort the edge. I could fix it but next time I will make the final cut after the beads are formed. I mainly wanted to see a bigger transition on the step over the cross hatch cause it looks cleaner. Basically just taking out a washer so the distance is greater between dies. So now when I mark up my panel with a sharpie by measuring the transition to the to the step I can also mark where to stop the cross hatch exactly. This weekend I'm going to make another die with a smaller diameter die and more rounder. I think that will help a lot in making the final pieces. May look into different gauges of metal as well. Using 18 gauge so maybe I'm making life difficult. Got it for the weldability but maybe not needed if it's going to be riveted to the frame.
That looks like fun, I never thought about making the dies as you have and you could do all kinds of stuff with simple washers in experimenting, very cool.

I know that the trimming metal AFTER it's formed is something that hit me too not to long ago. I have in the past spend a bunch of time making it perfect before the welds or forming is done and it changes size! Guess it's one of those lessons that come when the student is ready for the teacher to appear.

Brian
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  #7161 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 08:34 AM
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It's a blast. I love the fact that I can out there in my Pajamas late at night and get busy with some music. I'll also feel the same about my e wheel. No dust, no fumes, no noise and I can walk around in pajamas and slippers as long as I don't grind. I'm just lucky the dies I'm interested in at the moment can be made simply with washers, shaft collars, and my new lathe...the angle grinder.
When it comes time to get radius dies I'll probably call Hoosier. The artsy stuff on the roller in my opinion is a lot of fun but sort of gimmicky in comparison to other things you do in metal shaping, but I think it's a good thing to add to the arsenal and it's fun and there is a little technique involved but mainly just turning a crank and being patient.
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  #7162 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 10:58 AM
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I switched to a smaller tip and using the .035 wire for filler and it was sweet. This certainly doesn't look like perfection but it's a lot better than I was doing
I keep looking at the welds across the roof ...
If that's your "sloppy" work, I'd say that truck is in good hands
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  #7163 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 11:24 AM
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I keep looking at the welds across the roof ...
If that's your "sloppy" work, I'd say that truck is in good hands
Thanks so much, I have came a long way since I ruined my first roof but I am having a ball trying to get better.

Brian
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  #7164 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
That looks like fun, I never thought about making the dies as you have and you could do all kinds of stuff with simple washers in experimenting, very cool.

I know that the trimming metal AFTER it's formed is something that hit me too not to long ago. I have in the past spend a bunch of time making it perfect before the welds or forming is done and it changes size! Guess it's one of those lessons that come when the student is ready for the teacher to appear.

Brian
Along this same line, when you are using the English Wheel by leaving a border that will be trimmed away you force the roller to raise the metal up and give it shape rather than expand the whole panel. The border constrains the expansion making it easier to shape.

BTW The truck is looking great.

Henry, if you make your top die smaller than the bottom die you are going to force the dies to slip on the material and mar it more. It may be a good trade off but food for thought. For the dies to roll on the material rather than slide on it they have to be close to to the same diameter.

John
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  #7165 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 11:25 AM
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Along this same line, when you are using the English Wheel by leaving a border that will be trimmed away you force the roller to raise the metal up and give it shape rather than expand the whole panel. The border constrains the expansion making it easier to shape.

BTW The truck is looking great.

Henry, if you make your top die smaller than the bottom die you are going to force the dies to slip on the material and mar it more. It may be a good trade off but food for thought. For the dies to roll on the material rather than slide on it they have to be close to to the same diameter.

John
Ahhhhh, that makes sense! If one is smaller than the other it would also act as an "english wheel" stretching the metal won't it?

And thanks John! I wish I could get more done but it's a lot more than in the last 20 years with it sitting in the back yard.


Brian
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  #7166 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 11:36 AM
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Ahhhhh, that makes sense! If one is smaller than the other it would also act as an "english wheel" stretching the metal won't it?

And thanks John! I wish I could get more done but it's a lot more than in the last 20 years with it sitting in the back yard.


Brian
I am not sure it would have enough pressure to stretch the metal but I suspect it would score it more and also be a little harder to crank. Of course in a normal set of beading dies the female and male dies end up with a certain amount of differance minor that it is.

I don't know why I have had such a hard time "getting started" lately. I certainly am running out of excuses. Oh well, It is what it is.

John
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  #7167 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 12:29 PM
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Along this same line, when you are using the English Wheel by leaving a border that will be trimmed away you force the roller to raise the metal up and give it shape rather than expand the whole panel. The border constrains the expansion making it easier to shape.

BTW The truck is looking great.

Henry, if you make your top die smaller than the bottom die you are going to force the dies to slip on the material and mar it more. It may be a good trade off but food for thought. For the dies to roll on the material rather than slide on it they have to be close to to the same diameter.

John
that makes sense. It has worked for the small bead into the grooved skateboard wheel but it's only a skateboard wheel. Looks like I'll have to make two smaller ones then. No biggie. I really want to see how the smaller ones perform and it makes sense that they'd offer more control for intricate curves and stopping points. I'll try to find smaller diameter washers to do 2 small ones. I'll make one a little sharper than the ones I have now and one more rounder. I think it would work awesome. Thanks for pointing that out about the different sized dies.
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  #7168 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 05:11 PM
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Wellll......I did drill holes today and welded up the body mount hole that has to be moved. Not much to brag on but at least I got my five minutes in.

John
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  #7169 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 05:51 PM
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Wellll......I did drill holes today and welded up the body mount hole that has to be moved.

John
Excellent. Doing little steps like that are great. All of a sudden, you'll just pop right back to it.
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  #7170 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2014, 06:40 PM
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I managed to drill a hole in a can of paint and paint a few little things. I am to ashamed to show you the little e brake parts I painted. They are getting buried under the cab anyway. I am so beat from this unrelenting cold, and huge dump of snow I am going to bed early. I have to stop working outside. I keep buying lotto tickets but haven't had a lot of luck with those!

I drill holes in paint cans and tape them shut. It keeps the paint fresh, it just lasts forever that way. I am using por15 on the e brake parts, and if you do the hole in the can trick it lasts forever. Otherwise I toss 60 dollars away every time I touch a can of por15.
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