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  #8131 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 01:33 PM
put up or shut up
 

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I probably should have painted it cause it would be flatter and I would have been more vocal about cutting it earlier. The new painter did a fine job though in adjusting some things and is now spraying a lot better, it's just too bad he did this AFTER spraying these parts, but the body should be better and I'll make sure we open it up sooner. As for the parts, too much peel and too hard. Will probably cut the decklid open with some 1200 first. Other than that, it's going smooth as ever now we got 2500. The fenders actually have no swirls just from compound, no faint scratches, nothin. They're gonna look good other than a little peel. The hood had a little more swirls and on the area where I tried wool and it took longer to get them out, and that's even after sanding more on that area. The swirls from wool stay there even if you go a few steps back. Really learning a lot and doing a fine job on this one other than the hick ups from the other day. Maybe this job will be another example for the boss to remember to cut them open sooner rather than later cause. Anywho, I've tried the 3m squiggies and think the spreader works better. It doesn't flex and get into the pits, which shows you there's peel. I'm sure there's gotta be another way too so if anyone has any good tips let me know.

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  #8132 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 01:36 PM
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Dang 123,it would appear...you got it goin on,haha.As do all you boys.

See if these pics show up....just paying the bills today.This is a "hybrid",take-down longbow that showed up this week.We're right in the middle of bow tourney/competition action(starts around Feb....runs thru July).Why is it some folks wait 'till the very last minute to get their affairs in order?
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  #8133 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 04:37 PM
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Worked on a nice Road Runner this morning. Pulled a 440 out and will make an aluminum head stroker out of it.

Removed the Stude fender from the mold today. It has a couple of issues, air pockets in areas I couldn't get to with the roller, but shouldn't be to much to repair


Tried to down load pics but nothing??

Last edited by BOBCRMAN@aol.com; 04-08-2014 at 04:46 PM.
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  #8134 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
One of the hardest things in life to learn, at least for me. You want to do the RIGHT thing, and those around you don't. And the funny thing is the RIGHT thing is BETTER for them, but they just can't see it.

Wet sanding and using the little 3M squeegee is the top of the list for doing perfect cut and rubs if you ask me. I have taken every single spec, I mean EVERY SINGLE SPEC of texture out of complete bodies including the jambs using that method. Not leaving one 1/16" shiny spot, to me, that is like therapy, one of the most relaxing things I have ever done was cutting and buffing like that. One big difference, I also painted it, and prepped it, and did all the bodywork.....you know what I am talking about.

When you are cutting and buffing to such near perfection as that on someone else's work, YEOW, that can be VERY frustrating.

Brian
You better believe it.....You can sand and buff the worst paint jobs and put your heart and soul into it and make it perfect...and all you doing is making the painter look good but if you burn through one watch out you take all the blame too...so the best advise I can give you is stop buffing someone elses work and start making our own work look good that way you get ALL the credit for a job well done...usually the painter does his own buffing...I know as much as I hate cutting and buffing I'd never let someone cut and buff my paint work....
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  #8135 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 05:33 PM
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AS usual, everything you do is beyond excellent.

If you and Pugsy collaborated on a build, it would be world class.
I don't know about Ed but I couldn't work with a guy like Puggs .......I'd end up watching everything he was doing and never get anything done myself.
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  #8136 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com View Post
Worked on a nice Road Runner this morning. Pulled a 440 out and will make an aluminum head stroker out of it.

Removed the Stude fender from the mold today. It has a couple of issues, air pockets in areas I couldn't get to with the roller, but shouldn't be to much to repair


Tried to down load pics but nothing??
Hope you solve the picture issue! I'd like to see what you've built for the fenders!
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  #8137 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 06:20 PM
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Had to save in a different file.

The mold broke removing the fender.. The fleece was a quick mold make but not really durable.. Good for a one off use. The area above the headlight is hard to get loose from the mold. The mold for the right fender was conventional f-glass and lives for another fender. The fleece mold can be repaired but will take some work.. Fleece mold in last picture caption ^. White gelcoat

Next is the front headlight/grille panel.. Mold is made. Just have to tweak it a bit and lay in the glass/
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  #8138 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 06:27 PM
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After work I finished this video of how I unstuck our jeep door this weekend. I spent a lot of time tugging, prying and reading how other people did it on the Internet. I didn't think that crouching in the seat tearing the door apart with it stuck shut was all that appealing to me. One guy recommended taking the seat out and then tearing the door apart. I'm not all that tolerant of tight spaces anymore. My brain finally engaged and I hit upon the solution.

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  #8139 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CrashFarmer2 View Post
After work I finished this video of how I unstuck our jeep door this weekend. I spent a lot of time tugging, prying and reading how other people did it on the Internet. I didn't think that crouching in the seat tearing the door apart with it stuck shut was all that appealing to me. One guy recommended taking the seat out and then tearing the door apart. I'm not all that tolerant of tight spaces anymore. My brain finally engaged and I hit upon the solution.

That worked well.
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  #8140 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 06:52 PM
put up or shut up
 

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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
You better believe it.....You can sand and buff the worst paint jobs and put your heart and soul into it and make it perfect...and all you doing is making the painter look good but if you burn through one watch out you take all the blame too...so the best advise I can give you is stop buffing someone elses work and start making our own work look good that way you get ALL the credit for a job well done...usually the painter does his own buffing...I know as much as I hate cutting and buffing I'd never let someone cut and buff my paint work....
he's a production buffer. He buffed a 34 fender and it looked horrible. Swirls all over the place and scratches not sanded out. Right up my boss' alley! Today he painted the Gran Sport and put a hanger on almost the entire quarter. Boss goes, "it looks good, eh?" I go, "you didn't see that huge sagger across the whole quarter?" I told the boss to let him sand that out. Decent from experience but he's not a natural painter. Can't find the right balance of peel. If you're gonna sag the whole quarter make the damn thing glossy for crying out loud. huge sag AND peel.

Last edited by tech69; 04-08-2014 at 07:02 PM.
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  #8141 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 06:55 PM
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I got the driver's side floor pan in place.

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  #8142 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 08:50 PM
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I've been working on a '68 Buick GS 400 the last few days. The owner wanted a power antennae on the front fender in place of the hokey aftermarket one on the car. He is stripping all the trim and getting ready for a "restoration". He wasn't too happy with what I found when I removed the right fender for the antennae, not to mention the power one wouldn't fit either...



I have a LOT of pics of this "fix" that I will start a new thread on in the build section. The owner couldn't find a repro core support or a good used one so he bought a "kit' to repair it. Most of the kit fit well except for the extender piece. The instructions say to remove the support from the car and then it will take 4 hours to install the kit...yeah, right....

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  #8143 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
One of the hardest things in life to learn, at least for me. You want to do the RIGHT thing, and those around you don't. And the funny thing is the RIGHT thing is BETTER for them, but they just can't see it.

Wet sanding and using the little 3M squeegee is the top of the list for doing perfect cut and rubs if you ask me. I have taken every single spec, I mean EVERY SINGLE SPEC of texture out of complete bodies including the jambs using that method. Not leaving one 1/16" shiny spot, to me, that is like therapy, one of the most relaxing things I have ever done was cutting and buffing like that. One big difference, I also painted it, and prepped it, and did all the bodywork.....you know what I am talking about.

When you are cutting and buffing to such near perfection as that on someone else's work, YEOW, that can be VERY frustrating.

Brian
I was surprized to read this Brian. I thought I was the only one who found color sanding therapeutic. I absolutely love to do it and can absolutely get lost with my own thoughts while doing it....Cool

I spent a nard day today chipping the undercoating out of the rag top. It was hard enough that I never did have to use heat.

It is interesting that this old girl has so few rust pits on the inside of the quarters. They rusted from the outside where the car was stored in such a way the water stood on the stainless trim and eventually rusted it from the outside in.

I hope to start cutting out the remnants of the trunk tomorrow but may not get to. I have still got to clean the inside of the fender wells and remove the RH stainless.

John
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  #8144 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2014, 10:25 PM
put up or shut up
 

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I was surprized to read this Brian. I thought I was the only one who found color sanding therapeutic. I absolutely love to do it and can absolutely get lost with my own thoughts while doing it....Cool

I spent a nard day today chipping the undercoating out of the rag top. It was hard enough that I never did have to use heat.

It is interesting that this old girl has so few rust pits on the inside of the quarters. They rusted from the outside where the car was stored in such a way the water stood on the stainless trim and eventually rusted it from the outside in.

I hope to start cutting out the remnants of the trunk tomorrow but may not get to. I have still got to clean the inside of the fender wells and remove the RH stainless.

John
what I love is pulling the part outside and looking at the reflection of the sun and not seeing swirls and seeing the true color pop with the deepest gloss you can get. THAT makes it all worth it. Just getting sick of pointing out the differences between a chit buff job and a good one to my boss...Just open up your eyes you fricken idiot!!!
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  #8145 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2014, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Yea I did the filter and air filter ,it has braded stainless fuel lines,.didn't know it did this until I hooked to a trailor when I tried to go up hill loaded it looses power ,so today I unhooked the trailor still does same thing ,it does not stop running just stats loosing power abd slowing down until I lift aff accelerator then it picks up ,
Several days late on this, but, does it have catalytic converters ? Sounds like what happens with plugged catalytic converter or weak fuel pump or bad knock sensors.
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