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The "What Did You Work On Today" thread

3M views 36K replies 388 participants last post by  cerial 
#1 ·
4 hour work day for me at the shop. Used the time to do a valve body swap on a '01 Jetta 1.8t auto .... I successfully installed a transbrake on the car .... that however wasn't my intention.

Its in 2 gears at once in park, all other gears (R/N/D/2/1) are forward gears.... they all seam to be first gear.

I have it torn back down most of the way. Tuesday I'll actually get the VB back out and see whats up.... but part of me wants to take it out for a test drive the way it is just for the fun of it.
 
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#16,383 ·
There can also be issues with the trans coolers mounted so far above the transmission. It can create an overfull transmission if the pump is trying to push fluid that high. Hope it all works out OK!
Vall, as you well know with your gasser, trying to find enough room, space and air with these small grilles and modern drivetrains is a challenge.
Looking at my own pics, I should relocate the horns down on the valance to open that area up for air. Also, the condenser is very close to the rad, like maybe a 1/4" ?? I've always thought that was too close. If this works, I will be removing the cooler brackets for paint and final fastener install and will shim the condenser out some at that time. Right now, I can't move the bottom of it out because of the horns and relocating them would allow another 1/4 -1/2" of space to the rad.

I made the brackets for the coolers to push them forward and allow space behind for air movement and now that the grille is back on, I see I can move it more, if that will help ?

To answer your question David, I do have a Cooling Components fan and shroud. I have the 1730 with offset fan mounting for water pump clearance, and the shroud leaves the bottom 3" of the rad open. I needed that set up with the old radiator and the long water pump. I also felt that would help cool the coolant better on the road, where the fan really shouldn't be running. When I had this rad made, I had Wizard move the mounting brackets rearward about 1" which moves the core ahead that much and I have more room now. I've been looking at the 1750 shroud that covers the entire core for better cooling when the fan comes on. I will call CCI in the near future and inquire as to a cost for just the shroud, as the fan and mounting are the same as what I have. The BIG issue with changing the shroud is I need to pull the rad and that involves pulling the entire clip for access...:pain::(
 
#16,384 ·
Mitch if this was holding up my fun travel season I'd have to be eyeballing the nearest TH400 as a crutch to get past this towing gig. Don't take that wrong, I know there's a lot invested and riding on this. But you could probably have one swapped in half a day? It wouldn't mean "abort 200R", just y'know... a thought.
 
#16,385 · (Edited)
Vall, as you well know with your gasser, trying to find enough room, space and air with these small grilles and modern drivetrains is a challenge.
Looking at my own pics, I should relocate the horns down on the valance to open that area up for air. Also, the condenser is very close to the rad, like maybe a 1/4" ?? I've always thought that was too close. If this works, I will be removing the cooler brackets for paint and final fastener install and will shim the condenser out some at that time. Right now, I can't move the bottom of it out because of the horns and relocating them would allow another 1/4 -1/2" of space to the rad.

I made the brackets for the coolers to push them forward and allow space behind for air movement and now that the grille is back on, I see I can move it more, if that will help ?

To answer your question David, I do have a Cooling Components fan and shroud. I have the 1730 with offset fan mounting for water pump clearance, and the shroud leaves the bottom 3" of the rad open. I needed that set up with the old radiator and the long water pump. I also felt that would help cool the coolant better on the road, where the fan really shouldn't be running. When I had this rad made, I had Wizard move the mounting brackets rearward about 1" which moves the core ahead that much and I have more room now. I've been looking at the 1750 shroud that covers the entire core for better cooling when the fan comes on. I will call CCI in the near future and inquire as to a cost for just the shroud, as the fan and mounting are the same as what I have. The BIG issue with changing the shroud is I need to pull the rad and that involves pulling the entire clip for access...:pain::(
That is a LOT of work ,but if it fixes your cooling problem it would be worth it

I made my shroud,i bent the sides with a brake,the top and bottom I rolled them with 2-2x4s clamped together so the edges would be rounded not square ,for a better look (to me ) as you can see in photis corners were not welded in yet.this was a trial fit,,don't think I have any pictures after I finished and polished it.,, it also covers entire radiator ALL air is forced thru radiator none can go around it as sides are sealed with weatherstrippimg..mabe an overkill/
 

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#16,386 ·
With that much cooling volume, and that high mounting point. The difference between fluid levels running, and parked will be substantial. Once warmed up, you'll set the level as normal. but when shut off it will all drain down into the trans creating a very high level at engine start. It will possibly test the seals.
 
#16,387 ·
Mitch if this was holding up my fun travel season I'd have to be eyeballing the nearest TH400 as a crutch to get past this towing gig. Don't take that wrong, I know there's a lot invested and riding on this. But you could probably have one swapped in half a day? It wouldn't mean "abort 200R", just y'know... a thought.
The car came with a stout TH350 and it is sitting on the shelf. I can't count how many times I have looked at that trans and thought about throwing it back in. All I would need to buy is another crossmember kit, as I modified the 350 member for the 200. The thing is, the 200 has the same final drive ratio of 1-1 in third as the 350, so even if I have to pull the trailer in 3rd, the trans SHOULD behave the same as the 350 and stay cool enough...:confused:

I talked with the trans builder yesterday about the results of my latest mods and he is pleased that I am "persistent*" about finding a solution to this issue. Our thinking all along is the trans is getting heat soaked and wasn't able to shed enough heat from the available cooling with the previous set up. He didn't have any problem with the additional cooler and removing the rad from the path, and it supports our theory that it just needs more cooling to be right. He keeps telling me there isn't any reason I can't tow the trailer with this trans, even in OD. He built it to handle that load and with the rpm at 2150 at 70 mph in OD, that is well above the current converter stall of 1200.

*...I like it when people recognize my efforts as persistence. My wife accuses me of being stubborn, since she tends to give up on a problem easily and just accepts that it can't be remedied...:rolleyes:
 
#16,388 ·
With that much cooling volume, and that high mounting point. The difference between fluid levels running, and parked will be substantial. Once warmed up, you'll set the level as normal. but when shut off it will all drain down into the trans creating a very high level at engine start. It will possibly test the seals.
I am considering check valves in the hoses to/from the plate cooler just for that reason. I don't want another point of restriction so would I use 1/2" check valves ? would they also need to be low pressure, such as 10# to open ? Removing the rad from the path and adding the plate cooler was basically a wash for fluid volume, just that it sits higher now.

I see the off road racers with coolers the size of radiators mounted on the back of many different vehicles. They must be doing something similar to keep the drain back from flooding the trans ?
 
#16,389 ·
That is a LOT of work ,but if it fixes your cooling problem it would be worth it

I made my shroud,i bent the sides with a brake,the top and bottom I rolled them with 2-2x4s clamped together so the edges would be rounded not square ,for a better look (to me ) as you can see in photis corners were not welded in yet.this was a trial fit,,don't think I have any pictures after I finished and polished it.,, it also covers entire radiator ALL air is forced thru radiator none can go around it as sides are sealed with weatherstrippimg..mabe an overkill/
Edit wrong picture but it has taken over an hour to sign in,to this site again.
 
#16,390 ·
I am considering check valves in the hoses to/from the plate cooler just for that reason. I don't want another point of restriction so would I use 1/2" check valves ? would they also need to be low pressure, such as 10# to open ? Removing the rad from the path and adding the plate cooler was basically a wash for fluid volume, just that it sits higher now.

I see the off road racers with coolers the size of radiators mounted on the back of many different vehicles. They must be doing something similar to keep the drain back from flooding the trans ?
I looked at my pickup with Towing package it has a factory cooler mounted in the Side of the radiator and goes all the way to the top,,where the older ones were on the bottom ,,oil cooler on one side, trans cooler on the other and the PS has a small cooler just above the pump

yours probably the same way:confused:
 
#16,391 · (Edited)
I am considering check valves in the hoses to/from the plate cooler just for that reason. I don't want another point of restriction so would I use 1/2" check valves ? would they also need to be low pressure, such as 10# to open ? Removing the rad from the path and adding the plate cooler was basically a wash for fluid volume, just that it sits higher now.

I see the off road racers with coolers the size of radiators mounted on the back of many different vehicles. They must be doing something similar to keep the drain back from flooding the trans ?

You might already have one of these installed,,my truck had a 200 with the TCI kit when I bought it it worked flawless,,haven't tried the B&M ,,I have a th400 now with a complete TCI kit in it ,miss the overdrive,,with this kit you can lock the converter in ANY gear


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#16,393 ·
YEEEE FREAKIN HAAAAW

HOUSTON,we are GO for launch.

I drove a combination of local roads with stop and go intersections and the temp never went over 180°

Then I pointed it out to the freeway. John, the builder, said to put it in OD and DRIVE, let the trans decide what gear it wants based on load. Temp stayed very close to 195° at 65 mph until I got to a 1 mile grade, not a steep one but still, it had to work. It went up the grade in OD, temp climbed to 210 and stopped. Once over the crest and the load decreased, the temp came right back down to 195 !!!!!

Engine temp stayed at 195-200. Last drive it climbed to 210 and stayed there. The hot trans was keeping the engine hot also. Best thing I did separating them. They might both stay around 200, if I left the trans fluid going thru the rad, but I like the 165° temp of the trans with just driving the car.
 
#16,394 ·
YEEEE FREAKIN HAAAAW

HOUSTON,we are GO for launch.

I drove a combination of local roads with stop and go intersections and the temp never went over 180°
:):):):):):):)
Then I pointed it out to the freeway. John, the builder, said to put it in OD and DRIVE, let the trans decide what gear it wants based on load. Temp stayed very close to 195° at 65 mph until I got to a 1 mile grade, not a steep one but still, it had to work. It went up the grade in OD, temp climbed to 210 and stopped. Once over the crest and the load decreased, the temp came right back down to 195 !!!!!

Engine temp stayed at 195-200. Last drive it climbed to 210 and stayed there. The hot trans was keeping the engine hot also. Best thing I did separating them. They might both stay around 200, if I left the trans fluid going thru the rad, but I like the 165° temp of the trans with just driving the car.
Double YEEEE Freakin HAAAA! See you in Nashville next year !? :):):):)

John
 
#16,399 ·
Today was Good news day.
This completes 7 days Post operative time on the new workings in the left eye. Vision is clearing up nicely and doc told me I could go back to light duty in my shop as long as I wore eye protection when ever I am in the building for the next 90 days. Of and no heavy lifting as if I am going to throw a block on the shoulder and ride about in my power chair.

So to celebrate this this milestone the wife came home and asked me out to the shop. I got out there and she said she was going to help me put the coil box on the firewall of the 24T. I was actually rather stunned!! Never one to let a free offer go unused I said, "Hell Yes". I lifted the coil box and held the bolts in place up on the inside of the firewall. She puts the lock washers and a nut on the other side of the firewall and snugs things up. Took all of about 5 minutes but was a nice gesture from her anyway.

Soooooo It looks like I am BACK... Wasn't much but made me feel good. I was going stir crazy this last 7 days. Were gonna get this 24 T done and out of my Hair (?) if I had any left.:cool::D
 
#16,400 ·
Well I knew it was Datsun. Searched Fairlady and yep, thats what it is! Wierd name. I learned something today!

I liked those lil cars. a OHC 2000cc motor and four speed it was a fun car to drive. By the time I could afford one to buy I couldn't fit in it comfortably the mid season stretch across the middle was really out of control. I had a nice southern wife whom could make cold water taste wonderful and the rest is history.. and she is still stuffin me today!

They are neat little cars. :cool:
 
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