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Alot of tweaking is an understatement. The hood will end up as almost as much work as the front/fenders.
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Ahhhh, yes, I think a lot of us have been there-kinda happy that you have to do that task that you hoped might fall into place or be easy, and/or kinda sad that it sets your timetable back- I'll tell you one thing-that Car of yours is going to be gorgeous when it's done, and when you pull into a show or gathering there won't be anything there that looks like it-and, I'll bet when you're done you'll miss bending the metal! It gets in the blood! Really nice job- |
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Thanks 35.
I had a 10 year budget for the build and its just passed 4 years now. I could still make the schedule, maybe. |
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Budget? Ive heard of that...........somewhere-
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John, I know you are the new guy around here, have you looked at Pugsy's project journal? That car is a work of friggin art from the first bolt that was turned and the first weld made. You could take a friggin control arm and hang it in your living room and the wife wouldn't say a thing but Ahhhhhhhh.
Brian |
| The Following User Says Thank You to MARTINSR For This Useful Post: | ||
123pugsy (07-19-2012) | ||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to lt1silverhawk For This Useful Post: | ||
123pugsy (07-19-2012) | ||
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You know guys, I am embarrassed to say I have not. I certainly will make a point of it. I can tell by his posts the quality of work he does. I know one thing. I am to old to have a 10 year budget. Can't handle a 77 year end date. ![]() John L |
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Damn it's beautiful work. Brian |
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you are right Brian. Imhave lurked around some of the metal meet sights but never contributed much. What I like about Pugs is he has a vision and is working toward completing a real usable project that will demonstrate his skill.
I made the comment once that if I had a small convertible that had a good windshield frame and top irons I would like to hand body a sports car using something like an s10 chassis that had been z'd. My buddy told me about 2 weeks later he would trade me a Corvair Monza convertible for some Cushman parts I had. That was to provide me with said windshield, top irons, window regulators etc. for my build. Unlike Pugsy, I just don't have the energy to tackle a project that would take a minimum of 5-6 years. That makes me 73 when it is finished (if I'm lucky). I made the trade but the 'Vair is still in Pete's shed. I guess he wishes I would come and get it. Go Pugs! John L |
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Thanks for the kind comments guys.
Just hope I can finish without losing direction and end up getting discouraged. I spent all day yesterday getting a couple of stiffener angles made and installed and got it rigged back on the rotisserie. The two repair patches are sticking out too far and I didn't want to use the shrinking disc for a year on it so I pulled out the torches and tried my hand at torch/dolly shrinking. Its gonna get a whole lot worse before it gets better..... |
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I know it is hard to tell a lot from pictures but I think you are being too hard on yourself. The reflection looks to me like you are already getting it down where it needs to be. I wonder if a stud gun would give a more gentle shrink over the larger area. I have never used one so I am thinking out loud, not recommending. A shrinking disc and a stud gun are both things Santa could bring me if he reads the Forum.
John L |
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Unless someone shows me how to use it
the stud gun is a pretty harsh way to shrink. I have a shrinking tip for mine and it really is for something that you want to simply stop it from oil caning so you can slather it with bondo. ![]() The tip is spring loaded, a HEAVY spring. When you push it on the surface with a stud in it, this spring is mashing it against the metal as you meet the ground ring that is around the tip against the metal and then you pull the trigger to make your direct short welding the stud to the surface. So when you use the shrinking tip you are MASHING this tip into the surface, so think about this now, you have a small tip MASHED into the metal right where you are going to heat it up......you see where this is going? The tip goes INTO the softened metal and you end up with a dent. It works like a charm IF you need some quick shrinking but it is no "tin smith" tool. Again, I sure as heck am wide open for someone to show me I am wrong so I can learn another trick. I know when I was working for a guy and pulled out my stud gun he showed me how to use it as I had been using it all wrong for a few years. Here is a video of yours truly using the shrinker it's a horrible video with me dropping the shrinking tip but it will get my point across. http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=100_0548.mp4 Here is one using the stud welder properly. All you need is a tap on the button to weld it, just a tap like you do on your computer keyboard. You don't burn the thing in like I did before I was taught how to properly do it. In the video you will see how I weld a couple on and give it a simple wiggle and it falls right off. Then you will see me pulling with the slide hammer on one and I can give it a heck of a whack pulling on the metal pretty good, then a little wiggle and it falls right off. You do NOT need to burn it in so you have to cut it off with a pair of wire cutters for goodness sakes. But that is how I was using it not knowing any better until my boss showed me.http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=100_0547.mp4 Brian Last edited by MARTINSR; 07-19-2012 at 09:14 PM. |
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Well I am beat tonight after a 10 hour day at work in the heat. But before I put my jammies on I HAD to go out and put that 5 minutes in or I would feel damn guilty. I removed the header weather strip so I could wrap the top around the header. I pulled it out to the sides and held the flap with a screw where the weather strip will hold it later and it is looking great up there.
Brian ![]()
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