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The "What Did You Work On Today" thread

3M views 36K replies 388 participants last post by  cerial 
#1 ·
4 hour work day for me at the shop. Used the time to do a valve body swap on a '01 Jetta 1.8t auto .... I successfully installed a transbrake on the car .... that however wasn't my intention.

Its in 2 gears at once in park, all other gears (R/N/D/2/1) are forward gears.... they all seam to be first gear.

I have it torn back down most of the way. Tuesday I'll actually get the VB back out and see whats up.... but part of me wants to take it out for a test drive the way it is just for the fun of it.
 
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#1,241 ·
Sanding too smooth before painting isn't going to cause it, not realistically. Sure if you sanded it with 3000 or something maybe. But up to 800 should n't be a problem. Something else went on there, a contamination, painted with too fast a reducer so it flashes off leaving the paint just sitting on top, something like that.

Brian
 
#1,244 ·
finally driving her.

Well have finally got my 71 Gm 4x4 on the street, has the old skool hotrod look, wanted something different and easily touched up after use. Has a 460/525hp manual trans, 6" lift and 35/14.50/15 Pitbull rockers on 12"MT ClassicII rims. Fun truck. :thumbup:
 
#1,245 ·
MARTINSR said:
Sanding too smooth before painting isn't going to cause it, not realistically. Sure if you sanded it with 3000 or something maybe. But up to 800 should n't be a problem. Something else went on there, a contamination, painted with too fast a reducer so it flashes off leaving the paint just sitting on top, something like that.

Brian
Thanks Brian.
I didn't really think that was the problem.

This was all PPG stuff, the urethane, hardener, reducer, all sold to me by the jobber.
I won't use their paint again.

The truck was painted 6 years ago and gets chips easily.
I pulled paint off two or three places unmasking the repair.

I can never sell this truck w/o telling prospective buyers that it needs stripped and I cannot paint it again w/o stripping all the top coat off.

Nice, huh?

Maybe I'll just drive it til it drops.
 
#1,246 ·
John long said:
Wow Pugsy. This is not the kind of stuff I wanted to read when I got back. Sorry your day did not go better. It is a lousy feeling when your hard work goes down the drain. Don't let it keep you down and good luck getting it straightened out.

John L

Thanks John.

I'll just keep driving it.
It gets me preferred parking at all the cruise nights and is handy for when I need to make a run to Home Depot.
 
#1,249 ·
123pugsy said:
Thanks Brian.
I didn't really think that was the problem.

This was all PPG stuff, the urethane, hardener, reducer, all sold to me by the jobber.
I won't use their paint again.

The truck was painted 6 years ago and gets chips easily.
I pulled paint off two or three places unmasking the repair.

I can never sell this truck w/o telling prospective buyers that it needs stripped and I cannot paint it again w/o stripping all the top coat off.

Nice, huh?

Maybe I'll just drive it til it drops.
What kind of primer did you use. Sometimes if you put too much paint on too fast this will happen ...Does the paint seem unusually thick?
 
#1,250 ·
deadbodyman said:
What kind of primer did you use. Sometimes if you put too much paint on too fast this will happen ...Does the paint seem unusually thick?

Not unusually thick.

Paint DCC 4 parts, Reducer DT870 1 part, Hardener DU5 2 parts.

Applied over NCP 271.


Paint seems a little "too" hard.

As I mentioned, last PPG for me and if I want to respray the truck, I'm in for a ton of work. I already stripped it to bare metal the first time.
 
#1,251 ·
I'd be looking at the primer, something about that primer. How soon was the paint applied after sanding the primer? Some primers "self heal" and need to be top coated within a window after sanding. Or it could be that the primer was applied super wet and full of solvents and when sanded and painted it was still gassing off solvents so the paint didn't adhere properly. Sounds goofy but there are windows of time when stuff like this can happen.

I didn't do much on the car yesterday, got the top out and put it in the sun to is about it. It looks a lot better but still funky, I may be getting a new one.

The only sorta car related thing I did being I worked my ever loving butt off in the yard preparing for todays Dad day festivities was getting the tool box for my son-in-laws birthday gift.

When my son turned 30 a few months go being a new home owner he had never gotten a good tool box and had his stuff all over the place. I went and got him a tool box for his house stuff and filled it with the consumables like screws and dry wall anchors and a few tools that I knew he didn't have. Some new, some from his grandfather. When I was all done filling it just for fun I put a Ford Oval on it and an F-150 emblem (he drives a Ford). Well when I rolled it into his birthday party my son-in-law was looking at it like a 7 year old girl looking at her friend open up the latest greatest doll that she didn't have. It was so damn cute, the look on his face looking at that tool box. He and my daughter had just moved into their first house a few months before and he was in the same boat. Right there I thought I had to get him one on his 30th which was coming soon, well, it's this next Wednesday and I did a tool box for him. I couldn't find any Audi emblems at work so I stuck Mercedes ones on it. :D It's full of goodies that I KNOW he needs to get stuff done around the house and a few new tools. It's not as big as I wanted but damn it's a trade off I couldn't find the exact one I got my son and there just doesn't seem to be anything else that would work as good.

I think he'll like it just the same.

Brian

 
#1,253 ·
MARTINSR said:
I just checked the NCP-271 data sheet and sure enough it says this..

"Note: NCP270/271 must be sanded prior to topcoat application if allowed to
dry more than 8 hours."


Click here for complete PDS

This may very well be the problem.

Brian

It was all sanded prior to paint.
Does the instruction mean that the paint must be shot within 8 hours of sanding? I'm sure a few days elapsed from sanding to applying the paint.
 
#1,254 ·
123pugsy said:
It was all sanded prior to paint.
Does the instruction mean that the paint must be shot within 8 hours of sanding? I'm sure a few days elapsed from sanding to applying the paint.
I'm sorry, I was wrong, it is only referring to a "wet on wet" process where if you leave it more than 8 hours you need to sand it before painting, sorry.

When I first read it I mistakenly thought it was talking about RE-sanding it if it has sat for 8 hours before paint. This is needed with some primers as they "self heal" and after a certain period of time after sanding they smooth out and aren't "sanded" any more. :sweat:

Brian
 
#1,255 ·
This primer isn't a urethane primer, it is an "ISO Free" 2K primer similar to epoxy (somewhere in the middle between urethane and epoxy) so like epoxy it has a pretty big recoat window.

Brian
 
#1,256 ·
Holley cow!!!! :pain: I went to put out the dog and my free standing swimming pool exploded sometime during the night its 4ft deep and 25 foot in diameter and right behind the garage!!!! Im afraid to open the garage door LOL! Its fathers day!!! LOL My wife's working today but I know when she gets home she'll find some reason to blame it on me :sweat: :pain: :eek: LOL !!!


Happy fathers day guys :thumbup: Chris
 
#1,257 ·
MARTINSR said:
This primer isn't a urethane primer, it is an "ISO Free" 2K primer similar to epoxy (somewhere in the middle between urethane and epoxy) so like epoxy it has a pretty big recoat window.

Brian

Thanks, as mentioned, I won't be using their products again.
I even used their recommended wipe. It seems the primer and paint are not compatible.
 
#1,259 ·
Pugsy: that paint and materials you used are compatible, ppg guarantees their paint and materials call a tech they will come out and look at the vehicle and may tell you what happened! or take a sample and Analise it! You tell them the procedures you used! and they will replace or refund!!! Call and give them the codes off the cans there may have been a call back on something and it was missed at the warehouse or jobber! Call PPG direct! dont go through the jobber.

Ditzler (PPG) is one of my favorite products and what happened to you is way out of the ordinary range of problems. If you sanded with 400 or 600 the paint should have bit and held, unless you sanded while the material was still chemically active (not fully cured) and the sand scratches shrank! or some kind of contaminant was between your material and color coat like a particular soap residue Found in some soaps from washing that a wipe (grease and wax remover) wont remove!!!

I would really be interested in what the tech finds! I would hate it to happen to me!!

Chris
 
#1,260 ·
painted jester said:
Pugsy: that paint and materials you used are compatible, ppg guarantees their paint and materials call a tech they will come out and look at the vehicle and may tell you what happened! or take a sample and Analise it! You tell them the procedures you used! and they will replace or refund!!! Call and give them the codes off the cans there may have been a call back on something and it was missed at the warehouse or jobber! Call PPG direct! dont go through the jobber.

Ditzler (PPG) is one of my favorite products and what happened to you is way out of the ordinary range of problems. If you sanded with 400 or 600 the paint should have bit and held, unless you sanded while the material was still chemically active (not fully cured) and the sand scratches shrank! or some kind of contaminant was between your material and color coat like a particular soap residue Found in some soaps from washing that a wipe (grease and wax remover) wont remove!!!

I would really be interested in what the tech finds! I would hate it to happen to me!!

Chris
Paint was done about 6 years ago.
Even if they were to give me new paint, I wouldn't have the desire to go about fixing it at this stage.

BTW, is there a lake in the garage?
 
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