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The "What Did You Work On Today" thread

3M views 36K replies 388 participants last post by  cerial 
#1 ·
4 hour work day for me at the shop. Used the time to do a valve body swap on a '01 Jetta 1.8t auto .... I successfully installed a transbrake on the car .... that however wasn't my intention.

Its in 2 gears at once in park, all other gears (R/N/D/2/1) are forward gears.... they all seam to be first gear.

I have it torn back down most of the way. Tuesday I'll actually get the VB back out and see whats up.... but part of me wants to take it out for a test drive the way it is just for the fun of it.
 
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#3,521 ·
I made a 2nd rod setup in the closet for more clothes to hang. I asked a boss if she would like to go on a date sometime...her reply thank you! :) but we cant due to work so kind of confused about that one so been thinking of how to take it. Going to the first city cruise of the year downtown tonight, as usual ill be taking pics and ill stick em in an album on my profile. For a small town theres usually a decent turn out. I was trying to have enough done on the truck to take her down but my back ordeal screwed that up. But its only spring and summers on its way!
 
#3,522 ·
Bash or Cut method of firewall modification? :sweat:
Yeah, I went with the slash and hack method.
It remains to be seen if I made the right choice or not. :confused:

See my journal for all the gory details.
If you cut, (as you have) then just be sure you cut enough for clearance, and also for clearance to remove valve covers for maintenance. Nothing worse than cutting, and then filling in and finding out later you should have cut more. Also make cuts that are large enough to easily fill in. Sometimes they look better if you can enlarge them, so the repair panel is less obvious.
That's a pretty minor cut. Try setting a BBC in a early Falcon, and cutting most the firewall out and building it back several inches. Or as my Austin, where I simply chopped the whole firewall out, and built it back 10"-12" to fit a 327 Chevy.
I try to never beat or bash, as it's cleaner to just cut and do a nice repair.
 
#3,525 · (Edited)
It should have fit without any mods at all ,this is a 63 Chevy in the shop with a Radical 427 BBC ,Muncie M22 4 speed it was a direct bolt in with 69 Chevlle Standard BBC mounts ,if you use SBC the engine sits to far to the rear..:D
I used the complete front cross-member from a 1979 C20 (the same truck that the donor engine and trans came out of.) I also used the engine mounts and brackets.

1976 C10 steering linkage and even the sway bar off of the 79 C20 (beefy!) also fit like a glove with only the need to re-drill holes in the frame for the idler arm.

Mid-70's 454 headers also fit very nicely ... so I think the engine is in the proper position.


Looking at your valve-covers, they appear to be stock height. If I had known this before doing the build ... I probably would have went with stock rockers instead of roller rockers.

PS. I see a heater block-off plate on your firewall. Did you go with an aftermarket A/C unit like Vintage Air ... or did you use something else? I doubt that I'll go to the expense of AC here in Alberta ... but a heater/defroster might be nice. I was thinking of pillaging an Astro van ... small and compact.
 
#3,526 ·
I like the hydro boost very much ,I think it cleans up the firewall ,Neat .did it also come from a 78 chevy 20 never thought about that ,I will be looking into installing that on my 53 ,less clutter under the hood,:thumbup::thumbup:
My booster looks about the size of Shreks Head ,I need to shrink it ,LOL by the way the 63 has roller rockers with double gaskets.
 

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#3,527 ·
I used the complete front cross-member from a 1979 C20 (the same truck that the donor engine and trans came out of.) I also used the engine mounts and brackets.

1976 C10 steering linkage and even the sway bar off of the 79 C20 (beefy!) also fit like a glove with only the need to re-drill holes in the frame for the idler arm.

Mid-70's 454 headers also fit very nicely ... so I think the engine is in the proper position.


Looking at your valve-covers, they appear to be stock height. If I had known this before doing the build ... I probably would have went with stock rockers instead of roller rockers.

PS. I see a heater block-off plate on your firewall. Did you go with an aftermarket A/C unit like Vintage Air ... or did you use something else? I doubt that I'll go to the expense of AC here in Alberta ... but a heater/defroster might be nice. I was thinking of pillaging an Astro van ... small and compact.
The 63 does not belong to me it is mikes truck ( a co owner in the shop ) he has a vintage air unit but not installed yet, he might not be able to run air with the engine he has it is a 427 12-1 cr square port heads 2nd design Big Mutha Thumper 850 quick fuel headers Etc Etc it is like my 53 only gets worked on at night after work or week ends,about 6 mo project so far,we have changed front cross members on 63-66 chevy trucks we use a 71 or 72 unit ,bolts right in also ,you get 5 lug wheels power sterring and disc brakes did tou retain the 8 lug wheels from the 20 series truck
 
#3,528 ·
Yes, that hydrobooster (NAPA/Cardone #52-7918) fits 1979 - 80 C1500 with 5.7 diesel with JD3 or JD5 option code ... 6400 GVW. This matches my choice in brake calipers.

It's important to know that this particular one uses SAE flare connectors which matches my steering box and pump. There was an o-ring fitting option (52-7252) in that same year, which I'm fairly sure also has metric fittings.

One reason was the small footprint for sure, and the other consideration was low vacuum. This 454 idles pretty rough, and I want it to stop!:thumbup:
 
#3,530 ·
It should have fit without any mods at all ,this is a 63 Chevy in the shop with a Radical 427 BBC ,Muncie M22 4 speed it was a direct bolt in with 69 Chevlle Standard BBC mounts ,if you use SBC the engine sits to far to the rear..:D
Do you mean BBC frame monuts, or motor mounts? The motor mounts on a SBC and BBC siit in the same position, but BBC motor mounts are taller than SBC motor mounts. The frame mounts are different, but not sure in what way.
I could never run tall valve covers on the 427 in my Camaro, as they just wouldn't clear the heater outlets, and the brake booster. I even ran SBC motor mounts to drop it down, and still not enough clearance.
 
#3,531 ·
Today was a better day! I got the headliner finished up after going to Goodwill and getting an assortment of butter knives to modify into tools for tucking the edge of the headliner into the rubber around the windows.
Then the brown truck delivered my helicoil kit, so I installed that in the BBC 464 and got my head on. Put the rest the engine together, and once I get the flywheel, and bellhousing on I'll be ready to drop it in the car, and finish up the externals.
 
#3,532 · (Edited)
Do you mean BBC frame monuts, or motor mounts? The motor mounts on a SBC and BBC siit in the same position, but BBC motor mounts are taller than SBC motor mounts. The frame mounts are different, but not sure in what way.
I could never run tall valve covers on the 427 in my Camaro, as they just wouldn't clear the heater outlets, and the brake booster. I even ran SBC motor mounts to drop it down, and still not enough clearance.
The framr mounts are different BBC and SBC ,but I think he has bbc frame mounts since he used the front ,suspension motor ,trans from the 20 series that came with the 454 ,I have three sets of solid mounts all three are different ,1 set sets engine lower in frame causes oil pan to hit sterring rod,2nd set sits #1 plug in line with front shock bolt 3 rd set moves engine back approx. 2 inches ,which I cant use ,I will try to post photos tomorrow they are at the shop,and its Raining LOL I also have rubber frame mounts off of a early 327 which are shorter in length and have to use a spacer between these and the solid mount ,,have about an inch either direction to slide,i put bolt thru the mount ,drilled out to 7/16 then set where I needed it then drop in shims ,U shaped to slide over bolt snug fit have to tap in last shim ,,they are spacer shims for installing 2 post lift in shop .your engine is looking good ,I am partial to aluminum heads ,D ports Nice,
 
#3,534 ·
Do you mean BBC frame monuts, or motor mounts? The motor mounts on a SBC and BBC siit in the same position, but BBC motor mounts are taller than SBC motor mounts. The frame mounts are different, but not sure in what way.
I could never run tall valve covers on the 427 in my Camaro, as they just wouldn't clear the heater outlets, and the brake booster. I even ran SBC motor mounts to drop it down, and still not enough clearance.
Have a look in my journal ... entries #9 to #12 on page 13.



I tried to label all of the mounts with bits of masking tape in order to record and share what I had to learn in what I felt was "the hard way", but I'm looking at all of this again, and second-guessing myself ... could I have possibly mis-labeled those mounts and brackets? :confused:

You see, I had 2 different "donor" trucks that I was scavenging parts from. One was of course the 79 C20 Camper Special, and the other one was a bit of a mystery ... what I believe was a 1976 C10 with a 350?

The C10 had a much shorter (vertically) frame rails than the C20 ... much closer to the frame rail height of my 910. It made sense to me that the frame brackets from this C10 would be the best option.

However, when I set what I believed to be the C20/454 brackets in place, they were much closer to being the correct length. :confused:

I did have to grind a wee bit (1/4") of material off the inside of the frame rail and drill new bolt holes. I had made some rough measurements between the cross-bolt mounting holes of the assembled mounts, and it was bang on! :thumbup:

The trans c/member also came from the 76 C10, and was also pretty much a "bolt-in" other than drilling a couple of holes.
 
#3,535 ·
we have changed front cross members on 63-66 chevy trucks we use a 71 or 72 unit ,bolts right in also ,you get 5 lug wheels power sterring and disc brakes did tou retain the 8 lug wheels from the 20 series truck
No, I'm using the 76(?) C10 crossmember, complete with upper / lower control arms and spindles.

I bought some 6-lug rotors from Early Classic Industries so that I could keep my original 6-bolt rear axle shafts and not have to carry 2 spares, LOL. Bearing and seal part numbers for these front rotors are the same as a 76 C10 2WD.

I did upgrade the rear brakes to 11-5/32 x 2-3/4 using the backing plates from the 76. Then I used 4x4 rear drums ... which have the same 6-lug bolt pattern. Kind of a neat solution, I thought.:mwink:
 
#3,536 ·
You will have to zoom on the first picture ,but my frame mounts seem to be much smaller than in the 66 ,second photo was first attempt to install ,these would not work last photo is final set that worked,,the first photo shows the frame mounts from a 66 impals but the frame is an 85 Monte Carlo ,that might be the difference ,don't know what solid mounts are from ,I had one set already other two sets picked up at swap meets.:confused::confused:
 

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#3,537 ·
Yesterday went to the cruise. Put them in albums on here I didnt put up about 40ish of ones that were left that I took and I missed about 50 other cars I wasnt able to get pics of. I get dangerous with taking pics with being out in the street trying to get good shots. I was talking to a few owners and threw this forum site up and they seemed to know about it. I tried to talk to as many owners as possible but my hip started hurting and I had to call it quits. Just some good ol rural town cruising.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/members/itsjusti-albums.html
 
#3,538 ·
Been awhile

Since I last posted, I have replaced the rear couch in my pontoon boat with new units form Gander Mountain (Overton). I also built up the 2" tongue on the trailer to fit the 2-1/2" hitch coupler, with 1/8" plate. I used longer pieces under shorter to give it a clean step up look. I also installed a solenoid type battery isolater to connect the trolling motor battery, which is in the front of the boat, with the boat motor battery ,which is in the back of the boat, so as to charge the trolling battery when the main motor is running. The solenoid only takes 1 amp to close. Also had to have both pontoons TIG welded where they had cracked on the top under the rail brakcets. Boat is now ready once again to hit the water.

As for the hot rod: For some reason the fabric on the seat cushion became fragile like a cotton tee shirt that had been soaked in bleach. So I had the seat cusion re-upholstered. Then I lengthened the lower part of the front wishbones so I could get some more positive caster. Also built a new longer arm to connect the drag link to right front spindle to get full use of the 5 turns lock to lock of the '65 Monza steering box.
Amazing how much those two little mods enhanced the driveability of my little T-bucket. The steering feel is so good now, that I feel confident enough to drive around 50 mph curves on the back roads one handed. :D Changed the engine oil and filter and greased the front end yesterday. All set for another summer. Allan
 
#3,539 ·
Had to chase parts today; one of my least favorite tasks! Getting fittings and fasteners to finish up the brake and fuel lines, plus a fuel pump. Only place that had a mechanical fuel pump for an early BBC was Oreillys, and then they gave me the wrong one. Had to make a 2nd trip back to find out their system lists the same pump for a BBC and a 66-88 Buick. Some kind of computer entry problem.
Got the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and trans bolted to the engine. Decided to put gear oil in the super T10, and some ape tightened the fill plug so tight I stripped the square head off trying to get it out! Tried vise grips and pipe wrench, but no go. Finally ground the head round and welded a 5/8" nut on it, and used a 3' breaker bar to get it to loosen up.
Some people shouldn't own tools! At least it's ready to drop into the mounts tomorrow.
 
#3,540 ·
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