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The "What Did You Work On Today" thread

3M views 36K replies 388 participants last post by  cerial 
#1 ·
4 hour work day for me at the shop. Used the time to do a valve body swap on a '01 Jetta 1.8t auto .... I successfully installed a transbrake on the car .... that however wasn't my intention.

Its in 2 gears at once in park, all other gears (R/N/D/2/1) are forward gears.... they all seam to be first gear.

I have it torn back down most of the way. Tuesday I'll actually get the VB back out and see whats up.... but part of me wants to take it out for a test drive the way it is just for the fun of it.
 
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#17,844 ·
free passes to the most boring car show ever. Sac auto show. When I got into the Suburu BRZ I dreamt of no kids and no wife and just riding off in the sunset, then I woke up.

Today I finally told this old man a thing about respect. He's such a hater. Let me start with this, I ask him if he needed to move a car out before I moved mine in, he said no. I moved my suv in. 10 minutes later he wants me to back it up. I get in, he goes behind the suv and moves a door on a stand and just stands there, keep in mind the engine is running. So as he's standing there I take that as a sign that it's clear to start backing up slowly of course. I back up and can't see the skin sitting on a box and knock it over. He says stop as it's hitting. My first instinct is to be mad at myself even though I can't see it and he was supposed to be my eyes. He then starts huffing and QUICKLY I interrupted him and said, "what the hell, you're supposed to have my back. What the hell is wrong with you?" I said that cause he does little things like that to piss me off, and when you add them up it's on purpose. I ask him to help me with a rear hatch and the bolts are sitting right up top, next thing you know a bolt on his side is missing. A painted one. WTH? I tear down a car and since he lies to the management and says I can't do anything he does a simple push in the trunk with a porto power, something I can do in my sleep, but since he knows I'm putting the bumper back together he glues the foam piece that gives me access to the bumper holes, he starts putting the trim back on to block off access to bumper holes. If he knows I have put togethers that have to go that day and he's parked there he will park his car blocking the roll up door. This man is a complete cry baby and completely defensive over the presence of tech that's there to get work done and not be a whiny diva.

Other than that, great Friday! Pay day.
 
#17,845 ·
This is what happens when you don't do a proper cam break-in :nono: and it sits a few months between start-ups.:smash:
The last time I ran it I noticed it started popping back through the carb and a lifter was ticking so I adjusted the # 4 exhaust valve and it still wasn't opening as much as the others.
This is the 3rd cam and lifters in it and it probably doesn't even have 10k miles on it yet.:pain:
Maybe one of these days I'll quit tearing it up so I can spend more time finishing the body and interior.
Improper cam break in on a flat tappet can surely cause it to go flat. But sitting sure shouldn't cause any issues. I run flat tappet cams in all three of my vehicles and all but one have well over 10,000 miles. The high mileage Suburban doesn't sit for more than a week, but the others sit a long time between drives.
It may well be a poor break in, but might also be the wrong oil. I use either Brad Penn, or Valvoline Racing Oil in all my engines, as both have the proper ingredients for flat tappet cams.
 
#17,846 ·
Improper cam break in on a flat tappet can surely cause it to go flat. But sitting sure shouldn't cause any issues. I run flat tappet cams in all three of my vehicles and all but one have well over 10,000 miles. The high mileage Suburban doesn't sit for more than a week, but the others sit a long time between drives.
It may well be a poor break in, but might also be the wrong oil. I use either Brad Penn, or Valvoline Racing Oil in all my engines, as both have the proper ingredients for flat tappet cams.

You're right about the wrong oil (not enough ZDDP) being a factor, but also when dealing with big lift and higher spring pressures and it sitting for 8-10 months at a time the lobes tend to get a little surface rust and that could be enough to cause excessive wear too. It wasn't until this time I did the research about the cam break-in that I seen where my problems started. Here is a list of the problems I've had with each cam.

Cam 1)(Hyd.) Wrong oil and # 5 Exhaust lifter blew it's bottom off and held
the valve open and it tagged the piston and broke the bottom of
the guide off and broke the valve spring. Replaced lifters with
aftermarket stock, new spring that matched others, and new valve.
Stock type lifters didn't handle the spring pressure and destroyed
the lobes (didn't know this at the time :nono:).

Cam 2)(Hyd.) Used cam from a friend and more stock aftermarket lifters
(still didn't know :nono:), wrong oil and no break-in.

Cam 3)(Mech.) Wrong oil, no break-in, stock aftermarket solid lifters
(still didn't know :nono:), and sitting too long between start-ups.

I did a lot of research this time before even thinking about changing cams again. I too wouldn't have thought the long sitting would've been a factor or stock type lifters would have been a problem either, but all of it added up to having cam issues. :pain::smash::pain:

Also I need to correct my original post.
It wasn't #4 it was #8. Brain fart!
 
#17,847 ·
Busy day today...

Took the truck over to the shop to take a quick look for the oil leak. The driver side of the block has an oily sheen, and there are drips on the starter bolts on the other side. Both heads are dry and clean, as is the oil pressure sender itself. I'm thinking that leaves the back of the intake itself at the china wall, or the 90° fitting for the oil pressure sender. I need to get one of those mirror-on-a-stick things to get a better look.

I also cleaned and polished all of the aluminum inside window trim for the camper. Installing the trim was a pain, but it's done. I removed all of the too-small curtains and installed some larger temporary curtains to get ready for our next camping trip. Finished up as the sun was setting.

Dave
 
#17,848 ·
You're right about the wrong oil (not enough ZDDP) being a factor, but also when dealing with big lift and higher spring pressures and it sitting for 8-10 months at a time the lobes tend to get a little surface rust and that could be enough to cause excessive wear too. It wasn't until this time I did the research about the cam break-in that I seen where my problems started. Here is a list of the problems I've had with each cam.

Cam 1)(Hyd.) Wrong oil and # 5 Exhaust lifter blew it's bottom off and held
the valve open and it tagged the piston and broke the bottom of
the guide off and broke the valve spring. Replaced lifters with
aftermarket stock, new spring that matched others, and new valve.
Stock type lifters didn't handle the spring pressure and destroyed
the lobes (didn't know this at the time :nono:).

Cam 2)(Hyd.) Used cam from a friend and more stock aftermarket lifters
(still didn't know :nono:), wrong oil and no break-in.

Cam 3)(Mech.) Wrong oil, no break-in, stock aftermarket solid lifters
(still didn't know :nono:), and sitting too long between start-ups.
DANG, too bad you weren't told about the need for ZDDP additive in flat tappet engines. I keep 8 bottles on hand for all my cars. I buy it 12 at a time from Eastwood, when they have it on sale.
 
#17,849 ·
You're right about the wrong oil (not enough ZDDP) being a factor, but also when dealing with big lift and higher spring pressures and it sitting for 8-10 months at a time the lobes tend to get a little surface rust and that could be enough to cause excessive wear too. It wasn't until this time I did the research about the cam break-in that I seen where my problems started. Here is a list of the problems I've had with each cam.

Cam 1)(Hyd.) Wrong oil and # 5 Exhaust lifter blew it's bottom off and held
the valve open and it tagged the piston and broke the bottom of
the guide off and broke the valve spring. Replaced lifters with
aftermarket stock, new spring that matched others, and new valve.
Stock type lifters didn't handle the spring pressure and destroyed
the lobes (didn't know this at the time :nono:).

Cam 2)(Hyd.) Used cam from a friend and more stock aftermarket lifters
(still didn't know :nono:), wrong oil and no break-in.

Cam 3)(Mech.) Wrong oil, no break-in, stock aftermarket solid lifters
(still didn't know :nono:), and sitting too long between start-ups.

I did a lot of research this time before even thinking about changing cams again. I too wouldn't have thought the long sitting would've been a factor or stock type lifters would have been a problem either, but all of it added up to having cam issues. :pain::smash::pain:

Also I need to correct my original post.
It wasn't #4 it was #8. Brain fart!
You've got something else going on IMO. With the intake off, are you checking to see if the lifters spin freely when the engine is spun over by hand? I'll bet they aren't spinning, or some of them are not. And all it takes is one and voila - flat lobe. The issue now is that 3 cam failures later has left a fair amount of debris throughout the motor. It would be a great time to pull the motor, strip it and get the block and heads cleaned.
 
#17,850 ·
DANG, too bad you weren't told about the need for ZDDP additive in flat tappet engines. I keep 8 bottles on hand for all my cars. I buy it 12 at a time from Eastwood, when they have it on sale.
ZDDP is great, but also way more expensive than just buying the right oil. Pay $5 a qt. for oil, and then add $10 a bottle for ZDDP. Or just pay $6 a qt. for VR1 at Autozone, and not worry about buying additive. Or $6.75 a qt. for Brad Penn. After doing the math I stopped doing the additive. Plus if I need to add a quart, it's already got ZDDP in it, and no need to add a little more.
 
#17,851 ·
You've got something else going on IMO. With the intake off, are you checking to see if the lifters spin freely when the engine is spun over by hand? I'll bet they aren't spinning, or some of them are not. And all it takes is one and voila - flat lobe. The issue now is that 3 cam failures later has left a fair amount of debris throughout the motor. It would be a great time to pull the motor, strip it and get the block and heads cleaned.
The common thread in all 3 failures is oil. Maybe something else going on, but oil is a huge part of flat tappet cam failures, even on properly broken in and adjusted cams.
I've not had cam failure issues before oil changed, but since I wont use the wrong oil, I haven't had any afterwards either. I hear all sorts of horror stories about flat tappet cam failures, and people seem to just choose the route of going roller cams to solve it. That works, but so do the good oils.
 
#17,852 ·
ZDDP is great, but also way more expensive than just buying the right oil. Pay $5 a qt. for oil, and then add $10 a bottle for ZDDP. Or just pay $6 a qt. for VR1 at Autozone, and not worry about buying additive. Or $6.75 a qt. for Brad Penn. After doing the math I stopped doing the additive. Plus if I need to add a quart, it's already got ZDDP in it, and no need to add a little more.
All my engines have been together for many years, so I don't use any synthetic blend oils. I buy Mobil 5000 in the 5 quart jug at Wally World for under $15 and Eastwood frequently puts the ZDDP on sale for $7 bottle. No problems, so far.
 
#17,853 ·
The common thread in all 3 failures is oil. Maybe something else going on, but oil is a huge part of flat tappet cam failures, even on properly broken in and adjusted cams.
I've not had cam failure issues before oil changed, but since I wont use the wrong oil, I haven't had any afterwards either. I hear all sorts of horror stories about flat tappet cam failures, and people seem to just choose the route of going roller cams to solve it. That works, but so do the good oils.
No argument from me - I agree completely. But I still would be checking most everything else as well.
 
#17,858 ·
Many of the new trucks are spec'ing full syn 0w-30 or 40 now.
Are you back already ???
Heck no. Don't plan on getting back until next Sunday nite.... I just figured I'd change the oil early. Found Mobile 1 at Wally World, truck does call for full synthetic.

I noticed at the beach that black, pink almost any color and "tan" go together real good....:thumbup: Unlike Mr farmers tan here......:rolleyes:
 
#17,860 ·
been doing what all the rest of you do.. playing with cars..

one project just got harder. i feel like such a tool sometimes..

Imgur: metric Spanner nuts looks like i need both sizes to change the suspension rod ends. have to pull the coil overs.. i think i will order some nuts also.. those look like they attempted to remove them with a chisel. the rod end has about 1/16 of an inch of slop... and every time the 385-35-15 tire hits a spot in the road where it drops. you get this Clunk from the rear suspension. there must 10 of those nuts on each rear suspension.. the fuel tanks i think have to come out so the suspension or at least the coil overs and the spindle need to drop off.


and this weekends job was creative. this is something probably only a few of you have ever opened. took me something like 30 minutes of heating and gentle prying and slicing to pry open that oyster. 2011 E250 5.4L PCM opened and solder joints examined. - Album on Imgur and those were before pictures.. i wish they had come out better.. my cell phone even at 1" from the circuit board in macro mode does not get a clear enough image to see the cracked solder joints. so i resoldered all of them. man what a difference it made. still throws an instant P0305 on that 5.4 E250. but its probably a seeping head gasket. coil and injector changes don't fix it. cleaning the injectors helped also. so in a week or 2.. if it lasts that long.. KAPUT.. off with the heads. the cylinder heads that is. my first dive into a mod motor. does not look that bad after i get a decent look at it.


and do i get a chance in this weeks Rube Goldberg prize with this fuel injector cleaner.. see attachment.
 

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