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Old 08-14-2008, 09:14 PM
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What to do with extra wires in harness

I looked in the Knowledge Base, honest, but I can't find an answer. I was told it was best to buy a harness with extra circuits in case I needed them later. OK. But what about all the other stuff I don't need like the whole column set and cruise and pwr doors/windows/seats. Can I remove those wires even if they go through connectors after the fuse panel? How? They don't just pull out. Or should I just try to bundle them up and tape them up out of the way? There are ALOT. I am trying to make a simple harness out of this I guess but still have the option to add music, or what ever.
Second question, there are lots of notes about wire size for circuits but no mention of what size for grounds. The engine and starter/battery and body to frame are grounded with the large cables, what do I use for the lights, gauges, switches?
I have been stareing at this pile of bewildering wire for days now. Hope you can help and thanks.

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Old 08-14-2008, 09:33 PM
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I would just terminate them in a small coil and maintain some sort of marking so you can figure out which goes where in the future..the grounds I just use a coil of #10 white with connectors to run grounds with..most wiring issues come from poor grounding..

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Old 08-15-2008, 02:15 PM
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All of the extra circuits I had were from the fuse block. I cut them about 2 feet out from the fuse block and then put them all in a 2 foot length of plastic convoluted tubing, then just tie wrapped the tubing to whatever was convenient under the dash so it was secure and out of sight. This way you can pull them out of the tubing for use later if you add a circuit or just need a fused circuit for another accessory.
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Old 08-15-2008, 03:03 PM
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take the wires in question, crimp a butt splice on one end. Cover with heat shrink. Coil & place out of the way (behind one of the kick panels) As far as the ground side, 2ga cable (min) from the battery to the block, Large ground strap from the rear of the block to the frame (think bellhousing bolt). Ground straps from the firewall to the block. For any individual circuits that will require a separate ground, remember, the ground wire at that point is 1/2 of the circuit, wire accordingly.
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Old 08-16-2008, 12:13 PM
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Thanks guys! I have decided not to be intimidated by all that wire. I have gone through the harness and pulled the light wires, front and back, and bundled them. From the light and ground to the switch and ground, front and back. Correct? These wires were to the column but loose at both ends. It has made it much more simple to follow each use instead of looking at the prebundled bunches. I was told to watch for constant power and switched power. Light switch, dimmer switch, ignition switch, wiper switch, covers all the switches I have, what would have constant power other than the fuse panel?
It shows that I probably shouldn't be trusted with electicity.
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Old 08-16-2008, 12:45 PM
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What CUCUMBER said appears to be the neatest to do...especially if you can use the wires later to run extra circuits...
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Old 08-16-2008, 06:57 PM
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Highboy,
With the switches you listed, the Lights and of course the ignition switch would need to have constant power with the key off. The Dimmer switch (3 wire mounted on the floor I am assuming) should receive power directly from the headlamp switch on one wire. The other 2 wires will be feeds to the headlamps High and Low beam, with a splice coming off the high beam side to your high beam indicator in the instrument panel (if applicable).
The only one left, the wipers will be a switched power circuit "Live" only when the key is in the accessory or run position.
Any other questions, just let us know.
GL
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