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Old 11-11-2011, 08:37 PM
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what do u think of Rust-Oleam

Hi
I would like your ideas on useing[ Rust-Oleam 7579 Gloss Black on body.] I plan on working on one Panel at time, useing a Lacquer primer as soon as ready to prime than the Rust-Oleam over that. what are the pros and cons on this.
thank you
arlo

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Old 11-11-2011, 09:06 PM
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I love this paint on the inside of body panels after welding and cleaning.

never used it for a body paint,thinking about,IMO.

Some think its below there ability to paint with it so wear radiation shielded underwear,your liable to get NUCED.

It takes work but the results maybe generous.

Rust-Oleam sponsored a 69 Roadrunner that was painted blue,its on the net some where.

Found it,http://blogs.hotrod.com/rustoleum-69...tips-3819.html
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Old 11-12-2011, 03:36 AM
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Rustoleum is Ok for shop equipment and items like that and can be useful for an ole ranch truck that suffers a lot of abuse but for any kind of nice paint job on a car Just leave it in the can and get some decent automotive materials. Last quart of rustoleum I received was like tar in the can and took a massive amount of reducer to get it to spray so never again for me will I use it for anything but the above named purpose..

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Old 11-12-2011, 05:35 AM
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Older Rustoleum

The older Rustoleum was made with Fish oil, and did not thin well with modern reducers. The stuff sold in the cans were not meant to apply with spray Guns etc. You lose the gloss when you reduce it. The spray cans of rustoleum are different and spray well.
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:41 AM
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Ayuh,.... What ya wanta do, is easily doable,...

Have a look here,...http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

'n here,...http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/b...job/index.html
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:08 AM
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great for lawn furniture . pretty much uselss for anything else.
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:21 AM
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Check the mopar board listed. The R-O is basically the same quality paint used in the 70's from the manufacturers. There are hundreds if not thousands of folks that have used it to paint their cars with great results. Its not nuclear blast proof like today's bc/cc but its not $1000 for materials either.

I've done my car in it and its holding up fine. It doesn't have a mile deep shine but its way better than rust, I can touch it up any time I want, and I can find more virtually anywhere.

If you're not doing a national tour trailer queen car its fine. No one has ever ask me why my car is painted with R-O. All I hear is "Man that sure looks cool! What a great looking car"

Will it last for 30 years? Maybe, with some care and feeding. Bottom line for me was it was affordable, I could do it and it looks great when prepared correctly.
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:01 AM
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the auto industry never used a fish oil paint in the 70's nor is RO anywhere close to the quality of lacquers and enamels used then.
# lacquer primer is a waste of time and money. it will absorb moisture and rust under it.
if you intend to paint it with a brush or mitt then have at it.
for others reading this thread do your homework. why spend all the time to get it right then put a substandard finish on it. you would be better off taking it to macco for a 300 dollars special.
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:03 AM
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interior primer

I used the old fish oil based red-orange primer in the mid 60's on My Jeepster. I used the primer on all the interor of doors , quarters, cowl. as much of the body as I could get to. I painted the exterior with premixed Cat yellow tractor paint. I has been outside 99 % of the time since. only a 1 inch rust thru spot in the bottom of the cown side panel. Not a show quality paint but It worked.
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
great for lawn furniture . pretty much uselss for anything else.
like shine says, except he gives it to much credit. i would not even use it on lawn furniture, it just totally sucks...
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:06 AM
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it has it's usages . lawn furniture, implements, lawn mowers and such but i just cant understand putting it on a hotrod. something your proud of . lacquer is dead. the new formulas suck and are just market hype. there are quality urethanes that can be bought for the same money.
and there is no "safe" paint period.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:43 AM
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Hey rustoleum works just fine on a car your going to be running hard anyways, DONT USE LACQUER BASED PRIMER THOUGH!!!!!. The chemicals dont mix and it will peel right off. Use the rustoleum brand white clean metal primer, dont use an expensive reducer, Paint thinner (mineral spirits) or acetone work fine. Then I shot some clear on top and it looked great!!!! and I'm still driving it, I get compliments everyday. My only problem was I was getting water in my air line which made the clear foggy, but

Here's my rustoleum adventure here check out the photos

http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums/...ight=rustoleum
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:33 AM
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Didnt we have this same debate a few years ago?.............
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:45 AM
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yeah ponch we did. same results . bottom line is find one professional painter who will even consider using it. if your car is only worth 20 a qrt then i guess it makes sense .
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:07 AM
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It's ok for the guy that wants a quicky, cheap paint job that looks decent at the end of the football field. I've a few cars like that, make em shiny and the chicks won't be embarrassed to ride with you. Some cars aren't worth it, but like Shine says, take it to Maaco if you want something just a bit better than a rattle can job. Many of the same cars will probably have quicky repairs, bondo stuffed in rust holes, git er done type of work, you see them everyday. BUT, if the old budget says no, here's the alternative.
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