I am converting my Pontiac Tempest from an automatic to a manual...for the second time. It started life with a 2 speed auto behind a Pontiac 400 out of a 76' firebird. I converted it to a saginaw three speed (because they were cheap and plentiful at the time). Then I dropped in a 4 speed sagy. In my quest for overdrive, I reconverted and put in a 2004R. Burned that up, had it rebuilt and destroyed it again!
So here I am, with a 15 year old boy who needs to learn to drive a manual. He is also interested in being an engineer when he grows up (do we ever grow up?). I figure an engineer needs to have some practical experience. Of course I'm hoping for some father-son time too. So here we go. But, before we get started, what are your experiences with the engineer giving you plans that just didn't make sense?
First up is the pedal bracket mods. I have the pedals from the previous conversion. But, I think the bracket metal is too thin and subject to galling after continued use. I found some pipe and after removing the seam with a round file, the clutch pedal rod fits perfectly inside. ($9.99 Harbor Freight calipers have paid for themselves many times over!)
You can see from the pics that we already started the work, before I thought it might be a good idea to share our project. Anyway, the bracket already had some beefing up from the previous conversion. We cut the tube into two pieces and slid the clutch pedal through both pieces to ensure the alignment would be correct and then tacked them in. I thought about welding the tubing in straight and then cutting out the uneeded lengths, but my Harbor Freight grinder with cutting disk won't fit inside the bracket.
Sidebar...has anyone been using these Harbor Freight Grinders? I am not a pro, but considering my shadetree adventures, I have abused these things and they just keep on running. They are so cheap I can afford to have several on hand, fitted with the appropriate cutting wheel, wire brush, grinding disk, etc. Sure saves a bunch of time absent the changing of wheel types. Same with my aforementioned Harbor Freight calipers. They have worked very well. I get it...good tools make the job go easy. But for a hobbyist, I have been nothing but impressed. Is anyone else using these grinders?
We finished welding the tubing, probably to the point of overkill, but I reckon my brake pedal should have some security. I am purposely not showing you the weld on the other side. It looks like Napoleon Dynamite welded it! And no, it wasn't my son. That is my monstrosity. My son is taking shop this year and had to demonstrate some welding. His shop teacher said he did better than most. Makes me proud.
You can see how much more metal the clutch pedal shaft has to ride on now. The other side is extended to capture the entire length of the shaft. With a dab of grease, the wear should be minimal.
Notice the clutch pedals I purchased did not fit the existing bracket. The auto bracket is obviously different from the manual bracket.
Look closely at the brake pedal tube. I fitted it with a brass bushing to take up the slack between the clutch pedal rod and the tube on the brake pedal. The pedal set was shipped with a plastic bushing. I just didn't think the plastic was going to last. But, let me tell you, fitting that brass bushing was a PITR (pain in the rump). I really need a lathe!
I can't tell by the picture but it looks like you have 64-66 brake and clutch pedals. They won't work in a 67 and later car. They changed the pedal hanger in 67 for energy absorbing steering columns.
...well, they work now! Anyway, thanks for that information. I didn't have anything to compare them to when I ordered them. I ordered for 1968 and that is what they sent me. I just figured that nothing is easy and I just accepted that when you make changes, you have to be willing to pay the man.
With that, do you see any problems I could run into?
I will show you the difference. You could make the 64-66 pedal hanger work in a 67 or later car if you switched the steering columns. You can also use a 67 and later setup in the earlier cars if you use a 67 and later hanger and steering column.
Unfortunately, my after market pedals don't look like any of those. It seems my design puts the support tubes in the hangar, where the factory houses the extra support in the pedals. I do see that the factory set about .5 to .75 inch more space between the pedals than I did.
Next up is the clutch master cylinder mounting plate. I guess that tells you we're going with a hydraulic set up. That is what I did before when I had a full Pontiac set up. I wanted to leave as much space as possible for headers...I still haven't bought any headers though! However, this mounting plate will be different because I am running sans brake booster this time around. So the old plate is no good.
I could feel the Pontiac guys hair bristle when I said "...had a full Pontiac set Up". Yes, the purists can get their flame on... :boxing: Don't worry, I sell my Pontiac parts to Pontiac guys. I have no true allegiance (other than Chevy stuff is cheap, plentiful and very accommodating). My problem is that I like 'em all: Ford, GM, Mopar. I really like the oddball stuff. Whether it is at a show or reading online, I love to see guys building a straight six or stuffing a diesel in their ride. Kudos to all you guys that dare to be different or just build what you have!
To save time and headache we are going to fab this up outside the cabin. My son drilled up this plate to mount the hangar and attach the brake and clutch master so we can get all the geometry right before it gets bolted in.
Can anyone give me some assistance with a slip yoke question?
My drive shaft is too short due to my transmission swapping escapades, but only by 3 inches. I figured I could run a longer slip yoke instead of buying another drive shaft. I'll need one with a 6 inch milled, 7.5-8 inches total. I know the 4 wheel guys do this to compensate for wheel travel. Will I have any problems doing this in a car?
Also, the older u-joint style (retaining clips on the inside) is a GM 3RL or S44...is that correct? I'm having a tough time finding this style with a longer shaft. Anyone know where I can get one?
No work done last couple nights. Work and school are priority.
Here's another question for the circle track guys. Who has used this shifter? (found on Speedway motors) Is there any stop between 1st and Reverse? How well does it work?
That Speedway shifter is strictly a circle track item, has to be taken out of one gear and put into the next, has no travel stops, no easy crossover from 2nd to 3rd gate, etc. Not a street shifter, or even a drag race shifter by any means. It is meant to be shifted carefully from lower gears to high gear and then left in high for the entire race.
Nothing that will ever work well on the street, it would be a real pain in the butt to use daily.
Thanks for that info. I suspected as much, but I really appreciate you sharing that data.
Does remind me of a situation I had in high school. My first car was a 71 Chevy pickup long-bed with 3 on the tree. Well, the tree was messed up as many were/are. So, I ordered a floor shifter from JC Whitney. Well, they shipped it without the bracket that attached the shifter to the transmission! Back then, shipping was slow, especially for an impatient teen. So it was a couple weeks to get that part shipped to me.
So here I am with this thing basically torn apart. Of course I'm going to drive it anyway! All I had was the shift rods supported by a hanger (clothes hanger) bent into a u shape and pushed through the floor to support the shift rods. So, I would shift this truck by reaching through the hole in the floor and push/pull the shift rods into the correct gear. Of course I'm bent down, not looking at the road while this is going on!! Hopefully, I'm a little bit smarter today...
We're back from the hospital and my son and I were able to start on the clutch master cylinder bracket.
Just some tedious work here; taking measurements from the hangar, transferring to the plate, cutting and drilling. We couldn't cut the hole for the brake master cylinder because my hole cutter was missing the set screw for the guide bit! Gonna have to make a trip to the hardware store...
One of my least favorite things is cutting and drilling metal. I instructed my son to start with small bits and work up to larger bits. Also, keep the bit oiled during the work. For the machinists out there, is this how you would do it? Any tips on drilling holes...?
This is a good segway for me to explain my parts choices for this transmission swap. I bought an engine and transmission with TBI, computer, harness and accessories for a great price. It's a Chevy 305 out of 1995 Pickup. I've got the engine installed and running with a carb. I may or may not stay with the 305, but I was most interested in running the late model accessory set up and trying out my hand with the TBI some time here in the future.
I'm not using the 4L60E. But, I am capitalizing on parts for the 1995 Chevy 305. Plan on purchasing the flywheel, clutch assembly, master and slave cylinder, etc at the local parts store.
The next posts will show the clutch master I am using to mock up the firewall support plate.
Thanks hpete...I used the hole saw this week on the MC bracket. I keep the oil flowing and the bit speed as slow as I can set the drill press. It seems to work okay.
I've used the step bit too. But, I think I ruined it on some .25 in steel. I've learned to listen to how the bit is responding to the metal and comparing to how it cuts.
But, I still need some more opinions/facts. Anyone else?... Fill me in on your expertise/knowledge/backyard know how...
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