what else in in wax and grease remover besides mineral spirits? - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brother728
I don't think you're replying to my post, because nothing you say has anything to do with what I posted. I never said anything about saving "a dollar and a half" and I never advocated home-brewed wax and grease remover--in fact--I said it is a waste of time and money. The thread was about what's in the stuff. I explained that.

Maybe you've had to much "cerial"--whatever that is. And nobody is telling you what to do with your money. You go ahead and buy whatever they tell you to buy. The point is to get the surface clean without jeopardizing your hard work. Did you get that?
--------------------------------------------------------------

Brother, in defense of Brian, I took your post same way he did, perhaps the statement "if you buy everything the companies try and sell you" Perhaps lead Brian and myself to that conclusion.

Anyways, to answer your question, there are 100's of grades of "Mineral Spirits or Naptha" as you put it and the reason a company may have 2 or 3 different kinds is because the evaporation point is different and they are trying to adjust the dry time of the wax and grease remover.

It may sound stupid but believe it or not, the most critical item for a good wax and grease remover is the flash or dry time, that is why a company may have three or four grades and promote one grade for this use and another grade for this type of surface.

Use the wrong one or type, especially over bare metal and the paint is going to have adhesion problems.

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Last edited by BarryK; 06-19-2010 at 07:08 AM.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 06:39 AM
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That's cool. I'm just a guy doing my own work in my home shop with my own budget. And I didn't have a question about mineral spirits at all. That was the OP. I never mentioned mineral spirits.

And that's PPG's material safety data sheet calling it Naptha, cause that's what's in their DX330 ...according to PPG . Not me.

Geez, you guys are snarky. Naptha and mineral spirits are two different animals. While they are both products of petroleum distillation, they have different uses.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha
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Old 06-19-2010, 07:10 AM
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Brother,
Most of the people here that work in this stuff are here to help but we can all read the same thing and read it different.
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Old 06-19-2010, 07:25 AM
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I understand different interpretations. That is a lot different than saying, "you said this..." when I didn't. I'm over it. I'm not shooting PPG anyway on this job. PPG would not assist me in in finding the formula for their own '72 paint code.

I'm shooting Glasurit 22 line (single stage) and it's red, so it aint' cheap. So, yeah, I'm saving on not having to clear coat, so I can get a Starbucks instead of having to "wax and grease remove" between bc and clear, I guess.

I'm finding that it's often better just to read here rather than to post looking for assistance. It's not the most welcoming environment and quite a few people would rather bash you for your ignorance rather than help you. I get it. I had a dad too.
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Old 06-19-2010, 07:38 AM
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OK, then, I must ask why did you ask the question?

Why would you care? What difference would it make what is in it. I know that formula very well and would it make a difference to you if they had 20% lacquer Diluent in it or 60% and 20% 360 solvent?

I may be reading you wrong but if you were not here to save a buck, then you were just trying to start s--t.

Everyone reads a post different like I said, I will leave it at this as, don't matter to me why or why you use it.
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Old 06-19-2010, 07:43 AM
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Barry-

Please read the thread. I didn't ask the question. The question is years old. I answered it. Chill.
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Old 06-19-2010, 08:11 AM
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why drag up a 4 year old thread ??? you had to have searched for it
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Old 06-19-2010, 08:19 AM
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Who's starting sh--t, now. Yeah, I was curious. I wanted to know what was in the $50/gal stuff. So, as a new member...I did what Jon says I'm supposed to do. I searched for a previous thread on the topic I was interested in. Then, I saw that nobody ever answered the guy's question, which was "what's in this stuff?"...so I did some research and posted what PPG said was in their product.

Why do you all have a problem with that? And more importantly, why don't you read the thread before jumping on my back.

Later.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 08:44 AM
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i just asked a question . what part of it was jumping on your back ?
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Old 06-19-2010, 08:50 AM
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Hopefully, I've answered your question. Sorry...gotta go to work now.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 09:42 AM
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This is very simple, your post looks like an "how to" on making wax and grease remover. Now, the funny thing is, I didn't even say that or attack you in any way. What I said was saving money on wax and grease remover by making it yourself makes no sense to me being the paint costs so much.

When you can save the same amount by simply passing the starbucks in the morning instead of stopping for your latte buy real wax and grease remover that is recommended by the paint manufacturer. There is nothing to think about here, this isn't a big deal.

I personally have made posts over the years that sounded to someone else all wrong, and I am THANKFUL that it was brought up and we could clear it up so some poor unsuspecting newbe doesn't make a horrible mistake on my account.

It's no big deal brother, that is how I read your post, and I want to make it clear MOSTLY TO OTHERS not to you, that I feel this isn't the way to save a few bucks. That is all it was, sorry.

Brian
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1
In what cases would you not want to use a waterborne w&g remover?

It seems like it is a much less hazardous solvent. We have to use so many hazardous solvents in auto painting, it would be nice to eliminate one of them here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
First of all it creates less static electricity. Second it can be used on all surfaces like plastic and third, it is "enough" in most cases.

Brian
Thanks Brian. That's kind of what I was thinking. I really like using waterborne w&g remover. I just put it in a spray bottle and then spray and wipe. It doesn't get any easier than that and it doesn't stink and I don't have to put on my respirator with it. It also doesn't dissolve latex/nitrile gloves either.

I have absolutely no care on what it costs. This is an area that can be critical to a paint job. Maybe there can be some places in the bodywork and paint process one can look to save a few bucks, but this isn't one of them.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 10:53 AM
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i was raised by simple farm folks. from an early age i was taught if i cant afford it dont do it. i'm sick of people whining about the cost of a paint job and blaming pro's ( you know, ones who do it for a living ) for their misfortunes. we dont set the prices for paint . but we damn sure get hammered by them. being a professional on this site has become something dirty. even moderators cant resist taking a shot at us. let me ask you something. if you need medical advice do you ask a plumber ? do any of you honestly think a guy who has done this all his life is going to agree with cheap short cuts ? even a chemist cant disagree with the tightwads on here without getting flamed. you want to find out how to make jelly just keep screwing around with these chemicals.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 11:07 AM
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Maybe we should change our ways and help out?

Lets start a post here on what people have recommended to use, its not my car as Mopar Coupe might say.

One guy said use toilet bowl cleaner a few years ago.
Ajax or comet
Lacquer thinner
Acetone
alcohol
soap and water
Mineral spirits from Home Depot
Carb cleaner
Brake cleaner
409

Got to be a whole lot more we can add to this, just in case Walmart has a sale.

The one thing I will not give-in on is when we get to brushing on our paint, lets buy the best brush we can get.

Also, that 22 line of paint in red will be $600-800 pretty easy, you know you got screwed when Jegs and Summit has same color for $75, and your worrying about a $50 can of wax and grease remover that will last 3-6 jobs.

Last edited by BarryK; 06-19-2010 at 11:21 AM. Reason: Remembered more!
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 11:14 AM
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Shine, I am remodeling my bathroom right now. I am talking FULLY, tub, floor walls ALL the plumbing under the house, the whole shebang. I know NOTHING or next to nothing about this. I was seriously overwhelmed when I started it.

The first thing I told the guy when I walked into our local hardware store (a REAL hardware store, not a "McHome" store) was this "I am a professional in the business of autobody repair, I understand that quality tools and supplies cost money, give me the best". I am doing this project as a pro would with the pro tools and I am finding that it isn't that big of a deal. And over and over I think of how if I hadn't listened to him and bought a cheaper tool or went with what I was planing using, my tools, how SCREWED I would be!

Buying the professional tools and supplies has made a HUGE difference in this project!

Nope, I rather buy the good stuff and do it once, then do it twice or three times with the cheap stuff.

Brian

Last edited by MARTINSR; 06-19-2010 at 12:09 PM.
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