[Dajerseyrat]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

The carbon in the carb and the carbon sparl plugs show its severly carboned up.
You gave no usefull info. The cam part number is the custom grind cam order number
Tells you nothing.

The card is worn out..This is what it says.

[Dajerseyrat]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

it looks like you have a race car bolted to your race carb and race engine.what are you trying to accomplish? are you racing it? curious how you like the jerico? I considered it but with out a speedo I went with a street friendly tko.
that carb is obviously a holley thats been modified

Im looking to tame the car down so I can take the car to local cruise nights and not have to change the plugs after driving there.I havent gotten the car out on the road yet, just picked it up and having fouling issues, plus the massive hurricane that were getting hit with up here has put a damper on my day.

[F-BIRD'88]

Start by getting new spark plugs Champion RC12YC gap at .035"

carb jetting.... timing at idle, manifold vacuum at idle,,, idl speed (rpm)
Timing at max advance...
carb power valve rating. Is it blown? reduce the fuel pressure to 6psi at idle.

the old plugs are for racing. Too cold for street use. idling etc. (use the champion RC12yc)

Carb venturii diameter (not the boosters) carb throttle bores diameter.
jetting. brand name of the metering blocks power valve vac rating.?

If this motor has a solid roller cam its a good idea to reset the valve lash.

[techinspector1]

Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat

Im looking to tame the car down so I can take the car to local cruise nights and not have to change the plugs after driving there.I havent gotten the car out on the road yet, just picked it up and having fouling issues, plus the massive hurricane that were getting hit with up here has put a damper on my day.

Forget about less cam if that's what you have in mind. If your SCR truly is 11.00:1, then the cam that's in there now is perfectly matched to the SCR, providing a DCR of 8.53:1 with an intake closing point of 54 degrees after bottom dead center @0.050" tappet lift. Less cam will raise the DCR and render the motor inoperable on pump gas due to detonation. My best advice, build another, milder motor for cruising. Or cruise in another car, a stocker.

[vinniekq2]

From what I can read your cam is very close to what I have in my engine. It will be expensive to drive on the street,no doubt.Not sure what intake that is? dart?My engine makes peak power at 6500 rpm,yours will likely make peak at 7500 rpm.
your intake and carb likely work best from 3500 up,so launching the car will be a pain.Hope your 1st geat is lower.I bet that carb flows over 1,000 cfm.
I think you will need about 22 degrees initial timing and all in by 2500.about 35 degrees total.It should idle at 950 to 1000 rpm.no idea about jetting because the carb will flow more than the 850 it started with.
You will at some time need to book some time on a "mustang" chasis dyno( or another dyno that can load the engine and powertrain) dont bother with an inertia dyno.
you will need a few booster venturis,jets,air bleeds etc when you tune it. other than 0 to 15 mph it should drive fine.If you road race it then its fine. Gearing will be sugguested to you by someone and this time I will probably agree. I went to 3.50 gears but I also have o/drive so I didnt lose anything. use a speed calculator and 2500 rpm as a cruise rpm for that engine.
hard to drive race cars on the street

[Dajerseyrat]

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Forget about less cam if that's what you have in mind. If your SCR truly is 11.00:1, then the cam that's in there now is perfectly matched to the SCR, providing a DCR of 8.53:1 with an intake closing point of 54 degrees after bottom dead center @0.050" tappet lift. Less cam will raise the DCR and render the motor inoperable on pump gas due to detonation. My best advice, build another, milder motor for cruising.

Can I cruise this motor with some carb and timing adjustment? Im ok with a slightly radical motor as I only go 5-10 miles to local car shows and not really looking to go stock..I guess I want to be able to drive this car to the track a few miles away and drive ti to local meets. Or do you think this motor is too ridiculously radical for that? I mean i have seen guys cruising big ***** blown big blocks to the meets..

[hpete]

If it was mine I'd swap out the single plane for an air gap style dual plane intake. You'll still need to change the plugs and tune the carb, but the intake swap will really help with the idle and around town stuff.

[vinniekq2]

hpete,why would you put a dual plane intake on a 7500 rpm race engine?

[techinspector1]

You can cruise a Fuel Funny Car if you're willing to put up with its idosyncrasies. As far as a blower motor, the blower will tame down a radical cam and make the car driveable on the street. It appears to me that you have ignored the advice of one of the sharpest tuners on this board, F-BIRD'88. Back up and re-group.

[hpete]

I'd put a dual plane on it because he'll gain more on the bottom than he'll lose off the top. It will fit his application better.

[vinniekq2]

hpete,Im not going on a rant,just read what tech posted above and really reconsider why anyone would ever put that intake on this engine? look at the cam and carb and the big intake.scroll back and look at the headers,look under the hood at zero street stuff,jerico trans,,, etc

[hpete]

He wants to drive it on the street and his question was about idle quality. As I see it the problems he has are caused by crosstalk between the cylinder banks during overlap (+60 degrees if I'm reading the cam card right). A duel plane intake would eliminate that, I think that a plenum divider in the single would accomplish the same thing but I have no way to be sure. The op's carb is big enough that the dual plane shouldn't lose much up top. I prefaced my remarks with "if it was mine" being mindful of my own budget I zeroed in on what I thought was the most cost effective solution.

[Dajerseyrat]

Guys,

Im not concerned with making top end HP on this motor, I might take it to the track once and a blue moon, but my plans for it is just a radical weekend warrior. I thank you all for your advice and I guess there is no simple answer many different opinions on what is the best combo. I have in the past read many people who have the opinion that a vacuum secondary carb is better on the street, which is why I started this thread.

I understand the basic principal of the correct timing and tuning the carb I was just wondering if i decided to go with a quote on quote "Street" carb on this motor would be of any benefit? Or can I get that carb that is on there to cruise at 3-50 mph nicely to local cruise nights?

Im opting for hotter plugs and I just took apart the carb for inspection cause I suspected contamination and boy was it dirty inside. I forgot that the guy hadnt run the car in a long time and the fuel probably left all sort of deposits..My plan now is to clean out all the fuel lines and carb and replace any parts in the carb that are suspect. Right off the back I got a sticky Needle and seat and tons of grime in the bowls.

The carb has
70 front jets
74 rear
3.5 powervalves
21 pump shot nozzles in front
22 in back

[Dajerseyrat]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Start by getting new spark plugs Champion RC12YC gap at .035"

Will do.

carb jetting.... timing at idle, manifold vacuum at idle,,, idl speed (rpm)
Timing at max advance...
carb power valve rating. Is it blown? reduce the fuel pressure to 6psi at idle.

Jets 70 Front 74 Rear
Powervalve 3.5 F/R
Pump shot 21 Front/22Rear

Once I get it to actually start and stay ideling I will tell you the rest.

the old plugs are for racing. Too cold for street use. idling etc. (use the champion RC12yc)

Ok thanks was wondering which plugs to use.

Carb venturii diameter (not the boosters) carb throttle bores diameter.
jetting. brand name of the metering blocks power valve vac rating.?

This is a little beyond my understanding,how do I measure these?

If this motor has a solid roller cam its a good idea to reset the valve lash.

I assume it is.

[vinniekq2]

you have what looks like a 650 plus horse power engine with the parts I see.It will not be tamed easily.The only thing that would make it a lot easier to drive would be something like big stuff fuel injection,computer controlled crank fired ignition and a really steep first gear or automatic with a nice soft converter. A road race car does not like automatics as much as a stick