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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 09:37 PM
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badban,read what the engine is? Its not a stock 355

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 10:50 PM
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Ok i read way more on this post then intended.. doesnt look like money is an issue.. dont be offended but the carb looks like junk. Call Willy's Carbs in the morning and they will hook you up with something nice.. the carb looks mismatched and i havent seen bowl bolts like that in a long time.. also every carb I have ever had on and engine like this had the primary throttle blades drilled..
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 11:34 PM
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Vinnie: You said that your 355 isn't stock. I had to use the vac. sec. 780 on a 425 hp 454 in NHRA Super Stock and we made 806 hp in Super Stock trim 20 years ago. I NEVER liked the non vacuum secondary on the street for streetability and every time I made the 780 so that the secondaries were manual, it always sounded better, but didn't run as fast. I suppose I might have made more power if I could have used an 800 or 850 cfm. Do they make one with vac. secondaries. My point is, you can make good horsepower with a vac. sec. smaller carb that is more streeable and doesn't foul plugs or hesitate. The car ran 9.40s 142mph at 3650 lbs, with a Turbo 400 20 years ago. The trick was to have the right size nozzles in the accelerator pump system and the correct stroke in that system (add the larger pump capacity) - and let the vac. secondaries come in relatively quickly, but not instantaneously.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2012, 11:43 PM
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bad banana.. you sound like a super stocker friend of mine//LOL (add the larger pump capacity) word for word.. I always do this now...never looked back!
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 12:09 AM
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no, I was noting that the op has what appears to be a race car with a race carb. We ran 2 wcfb s on an 11 second 265 powered 56,,,it too was a race car.The op does not have to use a vac carb and the rest of the car is race looking.
yes a 750 vac would work,so would a 750 carter

It just looks like you skipped over the original post,,,
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 12:18 AM
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Yeah. "Back in the day" we couldn't add the Rio pump in Stock or Super stock; but we got around that by stacking gaskets on the stock pump housing to increase the volume. Also used a Cadillac pump plunger and cut some off the end of the pump rod shaft to pull it all the way up to the top of the housing for the longest usable plunger stroke. We needed to do that because we didn't have a secondary pump. We also ran relatively lean jets like 75s (primary) and 76s (secondary). If you need mush more (like in the 80s), then your induction and exhaust are working together correctly. Stepped headers that were properly tuned with the intake, head ports, and cam, pulled more fuel and required that we use the smaller jets. I really can't remember what size the needle and seat was, but it was larger than stock, and about 6 to 6.5 psi fuel pressure at idle. Floats were set just slightly on the low side of the inspection windows of the float bowls with the larger seats and that much pressure. As per the original question of a streetable carb - start small (780 or 800) vacuum sec.; get it running good asnd then throw on that big carb and see if it is any better. Flat top piston (9to1 comp ratio) a good timing starting point is about 34 to 36 degrees total.
Large piston dome and compression in the 12 to 12.5 to 1 range should theoretically require more total timing 38 to 42. I guess this car is somewhere in between. I guess I'd start about 36 or 38 degrees total.
Just Sayin'
Dave
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
FYI here is the distributor I have, and I cant find within the instructions how to set the timing curve.

Chevy Crab Cap Crank Trigger Distributor - 8489
That may be because the timing box does the work. What box are you running the dist/crank trigger with? Allot of good info on this one posted already. Sows ear out of a silk purse has been tried before. This motor as it is wants WOT not the street, a carb swap or tweak wont get you there.

Last edited by Custom10; 11-01-2012 at 01:30 AM. Reason: i cant spell
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
That's a distributor used for racing so the distributor itself contains no mechanical or vacuum advance capabilities. If you want an ignition "curve", you will need an ignition box that is programmable. It's not unusual for the timing to be set to the max power setting and then an ignition timing retard is used to crank it up.
Ahh gotcha..Gonna swap that out then..
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Short of that, the locked timing is about as good as you will do. Is there a crank trigger on the front of the motor? What ignition box is on that car?
Yes crank trigger up front, and MSD 2AL.

Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Also from what Im getting from your post, the base timing will be higher than the WOT timing? So it will actually be retarding timing as you accelerate?

Some engines need this. ( Timing is basicly based on the cylinder pressure (high or lower) and relative engine load in any one driving mode. low CP and low engine load wants high timing....high CP high load WOT wants less relative timing.

cruising at part throttle with some rpm but light engine load...steady Hiway driving... wants high timing.
Idle , low load low CP + exhaust dilution ( cam overlap) needs high timing..

EG WOT the cylinder pressure is high. The fuel burns fast. ....... When idling the cylinder pressure is low (and with a 260deg cam there is a lot of exhaust reversion dilution, slows combustion requires a lot of timing to get the burn time right.

Exactly how yours will be best set up depends on what you have to work with there.
I was thinking of getting the MSD electronic distributer..Yay or nay?
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
Yes crank trigger up front, and MSD 2AL.



I was thinking of getting the MSD electronic distributer..Yay or nay?
nay.

Just go with EDIS or COP.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:47 PM
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Don't know why I get involved in these posts !!! :-(
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
Yes crank trigger up front, and MSD 2AL.



I was thinking of getting the MSD electronic distributer..Yay or nay?
If you mean the programmable distributor, I haven't used one yet. It's a good idea, the question is whether or not it works as advertised.

Do you have the MSD 6AL-2 box? There is no MSD 2AL to the best of my knowledge...
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Dose it have a vacuum advance function?

Thats what you need for a street car.
Vac advance for clean cruising at part throttle.
I have to look into that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Will a HEI distributor fit that chassis... (Firewall clearance)
Dont know will have to check. The issue is I ask 1 question I get 5 different opinions ans answers..Im going to stick to listening to you however..
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 12:52 PM
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sell the complete engine and buy a mild 500 hp crate motor from a reputable engine seller
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
sell the complete engine and buy a mild 500 hp crate motor from a reputable engine seller
If I do sell the engine, Im selling the tranny also as a package. What do you think I could get for it?
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