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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
FYI here is the distributor I have, and I cant find within the instructions how to set the timing curve.

Chevy Crab Cap Crank Trigger Distributor - 8489
That may be because the timing box does the work. What box are you running the dist/crank trigger with? Allot of good info on this one posted already. Sows ear out of a silk purse has been tried before. This motor as it is wants WOT not the street, a carb swap or tweak wont get you there.

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Last edited by Custom10; 11-01-2012 at 01:30 AM. Reason: i cant spell
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 09:28 AM
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A 750 HP would be a nice carb for that motor.
You already have the billet metering blocks. Just need the ( holley, proform) HP carb body
and the billet throttle base. A distributor with a vacuum advance system would be best for the street.
Or as stated, a electyronic timing control box to handle both a mechanical curve and a vacuum adv curve.

Short of that, the locked timing is about as good as you will do. Is there a crank trigger on the front of the motor? What ignition box is on that car?

Also from what Im getting from your post, the base timing will be higher than the WOT timing? So it will actually be retarding timing as you accelerate?

Some engines need this. ( Timing is basicly based on the cylinder pressure (high or lower) and relative engine load in any one driving mode. low CP and low engine load wants high timing....high CP high load WOT wants less relative timing.

cruising at part throttle with some rpm but light engine load...steady Hiway driving... wants high timing.
Idle , low load low CP + exhaust dilution ( cam overlap) needs high timing..

EG WOT the cylinder pressure is high. The fuel burns fast. ....... When idling the cylinder pressure is low (and with a 260deg cam there is a lot of exhaust reversion dilution, slows combustion requires a lot of timing to get the burn time right.

Exactly how yours will be best set up depends on what you have to work with there.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 11-01-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
That's a distributor used for racing so the distributor itself contains no mechanical or vacuum advance capabilities. If you want an ignition "curve", you will need an ignition box that is programmable. It's not unusual for the timing to be set to the max power setting and then an ignition timing retard is used to crank it up.
Ahh gotcha..Gonna swap that out then..
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Short of that, the locked timing is about as good as you will do. Is there a crank trigger on the front of the motor? What ignition box is on that car?
Yes crank trigger up front, and MSD 2AL.

Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Also from what Im getting from your post, the base timing will be higher than the WOT timing? So it will actually be retarding timing as you accelerate?

Some engines need this. ( Timing is basicly based on the cylinder pressure (high or lower) and relative engine load in any one driving mode. low CP and low engine load wants high timing....high CP high load WOT wants less relative timing.

cruising at part throttle with some rpm but light engine load...steady Hiway driving... wants high timing.
Idle , low load low CP + exhaust dilution ( cam overlap) needs high timing..

EG WOT the cylinder pressure is high. The fuel burns fast. ....... When idling the cylinder pressure is low (and with a 260deg cam there is a lot of exhaust reversion dilution, slows combustion requires a lot of timing to get the burn time right.

Exactly how yours will be best set up depends on what you have to work with there.
I was thinking of getting the MSD electronic distributer..Yay or nay?
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
Yes crank trigger up front, and MSD 2AL.



I was thinking of getting the MSD electronic distributer..Yay or nay?
nay.

Just go with EDIS or COP.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:47 PM
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Don't know why I get involved in these posts !!! :-(
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
Yes crank trigger up front, and MSD 2AL.



I was thinking of getting the MSD electronic distributer..Yay or nay?
If you mean the programmable distributor, I haven't used one yet. It's a good idea, the question is whether or not it works as advertised.

Do you have the MSD 6AL-2 box? There is no MSD 2AL to the best of my knowledge...
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
Yes crank trigger up front, and MSD 2AL.



I was thinking of getting the MSD electronic distributer..Yay or nay?
Dose it have a vacuum advance function?

Thats what you need for a street car.
Vac advance for clean cruising at part throttle.

taming down the cam to something in the 240's dur on 112
solid street roller will really increase the drivability cruisability

it will still make a ton of power. but better idle more low end power
A simple roller cam swap. (Later)

Will a HEI distributor fit that chassis... (Firewall clearance)
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Dose it have a vacuum advance function?

Thats what you need for a street car.
Vac advance for clean cruising at part throttle.
I have to look into that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Will a HEI distributor fit that chassis... (Firewall clearance)
Dont know will have to check. The issue is I ask 1 question I get 5 different opinions ans answers..Im going to stick to listening to you however..
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 12:52 PM
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sell the complete engine and buy a mild 500 hp crate motor from a reputable engine seller
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
sell the complete engine and buy a mild 500 hp crate motor from a reputable engine seller
If I do sell the engine, Im selling the tranny also as a package. What do you think I could get for it?
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 01:27 PM
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Both items would need to go to a racer and he would take it apart to appraise the parts.sounds like a lot of race ready parts for a good home.The transmission is worth quite a bit.Price will depend on the racing seen in your area,,,craigslist will be a waste of time.

NOTE: when someone offers to tear the engine down for inspection,the buyer has to pay for the gaskets etc needed to reassemble.Make sure you get the money up front.
your replacement engine will be 9 ish and a TKO 5 spd is 2200 plus clutch etc
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
Im going to stick to listening to you however..
Fair enough. I wish more guys who post questions would be as up front as you and just say to everyone except who they want to listen to, "Just go away".

That way I don't waste MY time, either.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 02:42 PM
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Fair enough. I wish more guys who post questions would be as up front as you and just say to everyone except who they want to listen to, "Just go away".

That way I don't waste MY time, either.
No offense intended, however these threads seem to go off on a tangent almost inevitablely before you can really extract the intended information you need. Guys get all hung up on bickering back and forth about what parts are better who knows more ect ect..

It becomes really distracting...

On a side note, I just got the engine fired up and let it run for a minute or two and let me tell you something, it sounds as if it is pissed off at the world. I just fell in love....It revs so damn effortlessly and sounds like its really really pissed off...No way in hell am I parting with this motor now..
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 02:50 PM
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a small engine making (potentially) north of 670 horse power is something that you can feel.Its not for everyone because it takes a lot of work and maintenance. Drive it and you will be hooked.Take some time and learn about race engines/street engines,and figure out when a street engine becomes a race engine.Yours looks like a race engine that is streetable. It will be expensive to play with,you decide if its worth it??? I did the same thing,,,
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