[vinniekq2]

Thats a great engine for the right guy.You would be lucky to find a good home for it.Like Tech always says,combination,combination...so I doubt you could tune it down enough to make you happy. I wouldnt sell it in pieces either.
You might try any local race car engine seller if you have any hard core sellers in the area.Or race track.It cost a lot to build an engine like yours and all the labour will be lost.
If it was me,I would run the engine until it was needing a freshen up or someone bought it after you scare the living poop out of them.Then build mamby pamby 450 HP 383. When the engine needs to be freshened,you can take it apart for potential buyers with no losses.
I know what you mean by the engine scaring you,,,,they are a handfull with that much power and a manual transmission

[Dajerseyrat]

On a side note,Im still also tossing the idea of fuel injection. Was looking at the FAST 30226 kit. Was wondering if the fuel injection would make it a little more tolerable for me...any suggestion on that.

[Landshark928]

I went with the Professional Products Powerjection III fuel injection. Self learning and good to 600+ HP. For your engine I would get the larger 80# injectors and a bigger fuel pump like I am running.

I run a 421SBC with a decent solid roller and it idles like a kitten but screams like a raped ape at WOT. I have 11:1 compression with about 250*@0.050" and .660 lift. Engine makes a little over 675HP NA. Timing is 24* initial, with 36* all in by 3000rpms. I also have vacuum advance hooked up with 8* total advance under cruise and zero advance at idle.

The Powerjection III is an easy install and works with a stock intake. Even looks like a carb. I compared it to the FAST and Holley systems and it had more features for less money and was boost/nitrous ready out of the box, which the other two are not. I run a 200HP shot of nitrous with mine.

Listen to F-bird on the timing. I followed his advice and got my engine idling, cruising and WOT right.

[Dajerseyrat]

Originally Posted by Landshark928

I went with the Professional Products Powerjection III fuel injection. Self learning and good to 600+ HP. For your engine I would get the larger 80# injectors and a bigger fuel pump like I am running.

I run a 421SBC with a decent solid roller and it idles like a kitten but screams like a raped ape at WOT. I have 11:1 compression with about 250*@0.050" and .660 lift. Engine makes a little over 675HP NA. Timing is 24* initial, with 36* all in by 3000rpms. I also have vacuum advance hooked up with 8* total advance under cruise and zero advance at idle.

The Powerjection III is an easy install and works with a stock intake. Even looks like a carb. I compared it to the FAST and Holley systems and it had more features for less money and was boost/nitrous ready out of the box, which the other two are not. I run a 200HP shot of nitrous with mine.

Listen to F-bird on the timing. I followed his advice and got my engine idling, cruising and WOT right.

which version did you opt for?

[Dajerseyrat]

I also seem to like this system, but a bit pricey
Chevrolet Small Block EFI System - Chevrolet - Mass-Flo EFI Systems

[Landshark928]

Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat

which version did you opt for?

I got this one
Professional Products Powerjection III Kits 70027 - SummitRacing.com

The newest ones have spark and timing control as well. I had to upgrade my ECU to get spark control since it was a couple years old.

Search the net for a better price and summit will match. I think I paid around $1500 for mine 2 years ago.

[Dajerseyrat]

Originally Posted by Landshark928

I got this one
Professional Products Powerjection III Kits 70027 - SummitRacing.com

The newest ones have spark and timing control as well. I had to upgrade my ECU to get spark control since it was a couple years old.

Search the net for a better price and summit will match. I think I paid around $1500 for mine 2 years ago.

The one reason I was looking at the Mass Flo one is their kit is sort of a multiport injection with an injector in each cylinder. Also comes with a distributor and controls spark as well.

[vinniekq2]

Its going to cost you 3K by the time you convert. F.I. is a great thing for your drive ability.You will notice a huge difference from idle to 2500 RPM. When you floor it,the car will brake loose. What you have now,kinda doesnt like to be between idle and 2500 RPM.When you nail it now,the tires break loose.

[Landshark928]

Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat

The one reason I was looking at the Mass Flo one is their kit is sort of a multiport injection with an injector in each cylinder. Also comes with a distributor and controls spark as well.

The difference in a 4 injector TB and an 8 injector tuned port is minimal at best. Not talking a stock GM TB system. The PJIII lets you retain your current intake and dizzy. An upgraded HEI unit is $40 from Skip White.

The PJIII lets you keep things simple with self learning, or you can dive into fuel maps, timing, after start enrichment etc.. You choose. Nice system to learn FI programming on.

I also like the PJIII's looks, not that it's the major factor, but a nice bonus.



For advanced programming I run a net book in the car and can dial in a nitrous tune or just make changes at stop lights...

[cobalt327]

I'm betting that little sucker will **** and get!

[Dajerseyrat]

Originally Posted by Landshark928

The difference in a 4 injector TB and an 8 injector tuned port is minimal at best. Not talking a stock GM TB system. The PJIII lets you retain your current intake and dizzy. An upgraded HEI unit is $40 from Skip White.

The PJIII lets you keep things simple with self learning, or you can dive into fuel maps, timing, after start enrichment etc.. You choose. Nice system to learn FI programming on.

I also like the PJIII's looks, not that it's the major factor, but a nice bonus.



For advanced programming I run a net book in the car and can dial in a nitrous tune or just make changes at stop lights...

I have been researching a bit and am leaning towards the Powerjection III now. The Mass air one does not allow end user tuning and they claim it does not need any tuning, and I find that hard to believe. I will keep yall posted on what i do, but I learned the little information that I do know on a fuel injected set up, and the whole repeated tweaking of a carburator and drilling holes in the throttle plate to get it to idle is not my cup of tea.

On your set up did the kit come with the rail and regulator? I have a whole return system plumed but obviously need to upgrade the pumps to high pressure pumps.


Also what is the difference between the 70027 and 70029 kits?? there is a several hundred dollar difference..

[Dajerseyrat]

FYI Powejection has this product coming out in a month or so for hight than 550 hp application which I might fall into..

Performance Injection-Home

[Dajerseyrat]

Back to the discussion about the carb that is currently on there...I checked how open the throttle plates are, and they are exposing well over .040 of the transfer slots. Im guessing the car is currently ideling off the powervalve or the main circuit causing extremely rich idle. I understand the principle involved in tuning the idle but with the throttle blades open less the car wont even idle to check the vacuum and adjust the set screws...Which leads me back to adjusting the idle set screw which reopens the throttle blades well beyond .040 and back to the beginning I go...

So, I have read on several tech articles that some guys dril 1/16" holes in the the leading edge of the throttle blades to let more air in, and allowing them to close the throttle blades within spec.

How do you guys feel about this trick??

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat

Back to the discussion about the carb that is currently on there...I checked how open the throttle plates are, and they are exposing well over .040 of the transfer slots. Im guessing the car is currently ideling off the powervalve or the main circuit causing extremely rich idle. I understand the principle involved in tuning the idle but with the throttle blades open less the car wont even idle to check the vacuum and adjust the set screws...Which leads me back to adjusting the idle set screw which reopens the throttle blades well beyond .040 and back to the beginning I go...

So, I have read on several tech articles that some guys dril 1/16" holes in the the leading edge of the throttle blades to let more air in, and allowing them to close the throttle blades within spec.

How do you guys feel about this trick??

Drill the blades as a last resort. To close the primaries more than they are now at idle, you should be able to add initial timing (which increases the idle speed). Once you get the blades closed down some, the idle mixture screws will work again. Use them to get the best idle, readjust the curb idle speed as needed while you are adjusting the mixture screws.

If you add initial you'll need to remove the same amount of timing from the mechanical advance.

[Dajerseyrat]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Drill the blades as a last resort. To close the primaries more than they are now at idle, you should be able to add initial timing (which increases the idle speed). Once you get the blades closed down some, the idle mixture screws will work again. Use them to get the best idle, readjust the curb idle speed as needed while you are adjusting the mixture screws.

If you add initial you'll need to remove the same amount of timing from the mechanical advance.

My timing is locked out at 34 degrees anything off idle it hits 34 degrees. I cant get an accurate reading on the light at idle it seems to jumpy..