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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:03 PM
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Have to tried adjusting the secondary blades open more?

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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Have to tried adjusting the secondary blades open more?
No, cant really see a way of doing that.
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 10:03 PM
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Just another (better in some/most cases) way of getting idle bypass air into the engine w/o drilling holes, is all.
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 10:07 PM
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Just another (better in some/most cases) way of getting idle bypass air into the engine w/o drilling holes, is all.
No I get it and was thinking of it, but on my carb there is some type of linkage connecting them to the main linkage. I dont see any adjustment screws or anything of that sort. I do supposed I could play with the linkage a bit.
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 10:22 PM
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to adjust your secondaries,you have to take the carb off and turn it upsidedown
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
No I get it and was thinking of it, but on my carb there is some type of linkage connecting them to the main linkage. I dont see any adjustment screws or anything of that sort. I do supposed I could play with the linkage a bit.
I assumed it was a Holley- they have a small screw that adjusts the secondaries. With a little work the screw can be carefully removed and reinstalled from the top, or replaced w/another screw altogether. That makes adjusting the secondaries a lot easier- don't have to keep removing it.




The older style DP has the same type adjustment as the vacuum secondary carb above.


Last edited by cobalt327; 01-17-2013 at 12:06 AM.
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:59 PM
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Below is a DP w/adjustment from the top. You may be able to modify yours like this.


Last edited by cobalt327; 01-17-2013 at 12:07 AM.
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2013, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
I assumed it was a Holley- they have a small screw that adjusts the secondaries. With a little work the screw can be carefully removed and reinstalled from the top, or replaced w/another screw altogether. That makes adjusting the secondaries a lot easier- don't have to keep removing it.




The older style DP has the same type adjustment as the vacuum secondary carb above.

Hmmmm, let me look into this..
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 07:03 PM
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Ok, so I finally got the car road worthy... Took it out the other day and scared the living bejesus out of myself simply pulling out of my driveway...I can not drive this car for my life, I stalled it 8 times going around the block.. I dont know if it is the clutch throw, or the fact that it mose likely has a VERY light weight flywheel, and the combination of the Jerico Transmission. Im thinking if I get rid of the Jerico and light weight clutch and flywheel for something more streetable I would be able to drive it but as of now revving to 3000 rpms just to get moving is unacceptable..Also the fact that the Jerico feels like the transmission is going to fall out of the car during shifts..I think the Jerico has to go.

Any recommendation on which tranny and clutch/flywheel combination would handle the power and actually be streetable???
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 08:13 PM
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A, T.K.O. 600 might work for you.I use one.for a clutch use a single diaphram and flywheel I use a moderate weight S.F.I. approved steel wheel
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
A, T.K.O. 600 might work for you.I use one.for a clutch use a single diaphram and flywheel I use a moderate weight S.F.I. approved steel wheel
Does the lightweight flywheel make it worse to drive? Seems like it revs VERY quick but the second the clutch starts engaging, if your not revving the **** out of it, you stall it instantly..
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 09:17 PM
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light flywheels can make launching a little tougher,,
you also have tall gears and your first gear is not that deep.
the tko 600 has a 2.87 first gear.
what I dont like about the tko 600 is it does not shift as smooth as a muncie
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 11:34 AM
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Well i removed the tranny and the clutch was a Quartermasters 7.25" super lightweight 3 disc racing clutch with the flywheel on the transmission side. It had a Quartermasters reverse mount starter and bellhousing on it.

Im in the process of replacing it with a normal streetable sprung hub clutch and flywheel combo. while I was in there I noticed some coolant seepage on the block and head mating surface so I pulled the motor to replace the headgasket. I have to say the engine is incredibly fresh looking, the cylinders still have the honing marks and zero sign of wear on them.The headgasket did not look compromised at all, just seems a re torque of the heads would have done the trick. I figured I would right and clean everything up and replace the headgasket.

On a side note, what is a good TQ spec for the ARP head studs with a .070 thick MLS headgasket on Aluminum heads?
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 12:32 PM
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You dont torque the studs they go in hand tight only.Standard specs for torquing the nuts with either peanut butter or arp lube.
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 05:30 PM
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You dont torque the studs they go in hand tight only.Standard specs for torquing the nuts with either peanut butter or arp lube.
I have heard of using oil but never peanut butter...Anyhow I guess I'll check with ARP for proper specs on the "nuts".
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