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-   -   What is a good street carb? (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-good-street-carb-225495.html)

Dajerseyrat 10-28-2012 03:40 PM

What is a good street carb?
 
What street carb would you recommend for a fairly angry 383 Stroker with a 600 lift cam and about 11:1 compression? Currently it has a racing carb on it that is about 850cfm with mechanical secondaries. In this set up it like to load up and foul out plugs at idle or part cruising. Im looking to tame the car down a bit for the street, not a daily driver but a weekend warrior. Im looking for something I can install and drive out of the box with the minor adjustments..

Recommendations and why?

vinniekq2 10-28-2012 03:42 PM

the 850 you have is probably the correct carb.The cam you have is not what everybody likes.I have a cam like that and use a bigger carb and it behaves fine.It takes awhile to learn how to tune it.

techinspector1 10-28-2012 03:45 PM

Please post your fuel pressure at the carb inlet.

vinniekq2 10-28-2012 03:47 PM

post the brand of carb you have and the list number on the airhorn. or model number,etc.

Dajerseyrat 10-28-2012 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by techinspector1 (Post 1604235)
Please post your fuel pressure at the carb inlet.

Just below 9 psi. but the car has a nascar style fuel cell with 2 fuel pumps one on each side.

vinniekq2 10-28-2012 04:00 PM

you need to regulate that pressure down.may need to take the carb apart and check needle and seat.what kind of carb is it?

techinspector1 10-28-2012 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat (Post 1604244)
Just below 9 psi. but the car has a nascar style fuel cell with 2 fuel pumps one on each side.

Edelbrocks and Quadrajets will tolerate up to around 6 psi, but will run best with 5 to 5 1/2 psi fuel pressure. Holleys will tolerate up to around 7 psi, but will run best at 5 to 5 1/2 psi fuel pressure.

Fuel flow into the carburetor bowl is controlled by a needle and seat arrangement. Excessive fuel pressure will unload the needle and seat and blow raw fuel into the intake manifold, creating the problems you posted.

Most of you younguns have grown up with EFI, where you can make more horsepower with more fuel pressure. Carburetors are a completely different ballgame. Get your fuel pressure down to 5 to 5 1/2 psi before you do anything else.

Dajerseyrat 10-28-2012 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 (Post 1604241)
You do not need a new carb and you cannot buy a magic carb that will run perfect out of the box.
You need to dial in the one you got ..The problem is more if a ignition set up problem than the
carb.

What cam?

Distributor
Timing curve, timing at idle
carb model number pri jets sec jets power valve.
Fill in the blanks.
Can show you how to set it all up to run clean, not load up and not foul plugs.

Its a matter of set up details not a i need a new carb problem.
The car is not too big.

Well I just got the car and had it ideling for a while and the previous owner told me it likes to foul out plugs. The car was set up as a full road race car.I cant recall all the detailed specifics and havent taken the carb apart to see the jetting.
Carb: Dillman Racing Carb
plugs: NGK V power 7 R5671A-7
Ignition: MSD 6AL
Coil:MSD Blaster 2
Cam: Lunati #50199LUN
I have the reciepts for the engine and spoke to the engine builder. Was told it was a 383 punched out to a 389 and about 11.0:1 compression
Rear gears are :308's
Tranny is a Jerico 4 speed

Does this help?

Dajerseyrat 10-28-2012 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by techinspector1 (Post 1604253)
Edelbrocks and Quadrajets will tolerate up to around 6 psi, but will run best with 5 to 5 1/2 psi fuel pressure. Holleys will tolerate up to around 7 psi, but will run best at 5 to 5 1/2 psi fuel pressure.

Fuel flow into the carburetor bowl is controlled by a needle and seat arrangement. Excessive fuel pressure will unload the needle and seat and blow raw fuel into the intake manifold, creating the problems you posted.

Most of you younguns have grown up with EFI, where you can make more horsepower with more fuel pressure. Carburetors are a completely different ballgame. Get your fuel pressure down to 5 to 5 1/2 psi before you do anything else.

Yes, this carb is a "dillman racing carb" Never heard of them..Im guessing some sort of aftermarket shop carb. I had to clean out the needle and seats cause the car sat for 8 months and was gunked up. Keep in mind i just go the car and have no idea what the timing is set at yet, Im just having start up and runing issues at this point.

Dajerseyrat 10-28-2012 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 (Post 1604251)
Same guy back again looking for that magic carb.
You didn't take my advice last time.
Your last radical motor needed a specific setup which explained to you in detail
but you don;t ant to listen. This engine is going to be no different.

When you set it up right it will run right and drive fine on the street.
reread the last go around and do it this time.

The last carb I had Im convinced was screwed up and am sticking to that story. Either it would idle right and bog during acceleration, or accelerate right and load up at idle.

Dajerseyrat 10-28-2012 04:22 PM

Here are the plugs:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8470/8...497b9de8_c.jpg

Here is the carb:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8476/8...38ffde3a_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8186/8...100d8af6_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8189/8...6ca9def7_c.jpg

vinniekq2 10-28-2012 04:41 PM

it looks like you have a race car bolted to your race carb and race engine.what are you trying to accomplish? are you racing it? curious how you like the jerico? I considered it but with out a speedo I went with a street friendly tko.
that carb is obviously a holley thats been modified

Dajerseyrat 10-28-2012 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 (Post 1604264)
The carbon in the carb and the carbon sparl plugs show its severly carboned up.
You gave no usefull info. The cam part number is the custom grind cam order number
Tells you nothing.

The card is worn out..This is what it says.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8329/8...c687932f_b.jpg

Dajerseyrat 10-28-2012 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinniekq2 (Post 1604269)
it looks like you have a race car bolted to your race carb and race engine.what are you trying to accomplish? are you racing it? curious how you like the jerico? I considered it but with out a speedo I went with a street friendly tko.
that carb is obviously a holley thats been modified

Im looking to tame the car down so I can take the car to local cruise nights and not have to change the plugs after driving there.I havent gotten the car out on the road yet, just picked it up and having fouling issues, plus the massive hurricane that were getting hit with up here has put a damper on my day.

techinspector1 10-28-2012 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat (Post 1604273)
Im looking to tame the car down so I can take the car to local cruise nights and not have to change the plugs after driving there.I havent gotten the car out on the road yet, just picked it up and having fouling issues, plus the massive hurricane that were getting hit with up here has put a damper on my day.

Forget about less cam if that's what you have in mind. If your SCR truly is 11.00:1, then the cam that's in there now is perfectly matched to the SCR, providing a DCR of 8.53:1 with an intake closing point of 54 degrees after bottom dead center @0.050" tappet lift. Less cam will raise the DCR and render the motor inoperable on pump gas due to detonation. My best advice, build another, milder motor for cruising. Or cruise in another car, a stocker.


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