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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2011, 09:21 PM
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Wow, finished product looks super.

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Old 01-30-2011, 07:38 AM
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Lots of ideas said about materials, But Work bench structure has two very important points. material must be sutible for type of work, {a plywood burn table not a good idea}. and the height of the bench is very important so you dont get a back ache if its too low or high.
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runnin'OnEmpty
Wow, finished product looks super
Thanks, it was well worth the time to upgrade the garage. Even the wife likes hanging around there (even though that was not the idea )


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixguns
Lots of ideas said about materials, But Work bench structure has two very important points. material must be sutible for type of work, {a plywood burn table not a good idea}. and the height of the bench is very important so you dont get a back ache if its too low or high.
Yeah, you are right, about the height. When I redid my benches, I made them 4-6" lower than before. It was much easier on the 'old' back.

The other thing I did, was collected an old 'free' computer keyboard tray, and mount it under the bench. It's good for small tools, and fine work. Slides out of the way, when not in use. Also a little lower than the bench, and nice and easy on the back.

Lighting, good work benches, tool and parts storage, are the first things to think about when planning the new garage.
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Old 02-04-2011, 03:28 PM
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I built my workbench out of 2x4's as well - but then added 2x2 diagonal braces along the back and sides which helped stiffen the bench up considerably.

The workbench in my garage is built in a U-shape, 2 2' x 5' benches with a 2' x 6' bench in the center. Right now they just have chipboard tops, but solid-core door upgrade is in the plans at some point. All have been cross-braced and bolted together into a structure that will not flex (or move, for that matter). Adjustable feet on the legs also makes leveling the whole works much easier. I built cabinet doors for the center bench, and will be building drawers that go in the side benches for storage.
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:55 PM
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One of my first metalworking projects was a small (2 1/2' x 4') rolling workbench. Very simple and strong. 2" x 2" 1/4" wall square tubing for legs, 3/16" plate for a top, miscellaneous angle iron for bracing. It's held up for over three years. I hammer, weld, cut, grind, assemble and disassemble on it with no issues. Not pretty, but not hideous either. Best part of it was that all of the steel came from the "short rack" at my local steel vendor (Cut offs and such for about .50 a pound). Most expensive part was the castors.

Recently built another bench (3/16" top, 1/4" wall 2" angle iron for legs and supports) strictly to house my chop saw, drill press and bench grinder. Came out to about 6' x 2'. Also on castors. If you can weld at all, very easy projects and if not, great projects to learn on as there's the potential to lay a lot of beads. Just a suggestion. I won't have any wooden benches in the shop as I throw around a lot of sparks there.
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:31 PM
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Making a new workbench is a great way to practice your welding skills.
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:53 AM
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ROE,

If you're interested in building one out of wood, here's a set of plans that may be what you're looking for.

http://www.shotgunsportsmagazine.com...ench_plans.pdf



I've built three of these so far, in different combinations. One has the back with the shelves, and two others are just the bench bottom. I've also varied the length of the bench to suit my needs.

It is a very sturdy bench and strong enough for a monster bench vise.

Hope this helps,
Steve
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:01 PM
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If you need a temporary workbench, here is a knock-down version made from a single sheet of plywood. If you are careful with the cuts, it doesn't wobble and is very sturdy. Rather tan the cleats, I used scrap plywood to cut a rectangle to hold the top in place, making it a little more rigid. I use three of these for various things, most often upholstery work (the bench is only 32" high).

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip033100sn.html
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:34 PM
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lift table

I got paid $ 50 to take out and haul away a 1 K rated southworth electric -hydralic lift table. The safety strip around the edges were damaged,, I removed them and by-passed the circuit. The table is 4 ft square, about 10 Ga top. I built a new 6 in channel frame, recessed it and put in underground electrical feeds before I poured the floor in the new shop. I roll heavy stuff on and push the button up to the height I want. I had a couple minny van receiver hitches. I cut off the slide in receiver tube and cut holes around the inside perimineter, some square and some at 45*, I welded mounting plates to slide in tubes and mounted various tools. vise, pipe vise, Bead roller, planisher, Hossfield bender, tubing notcher, mini brake. Stake dies, Hammer forms, etc I also welded receiver tubing along the side of flatbet truck and to the 3 car hauler trailer. , I have a slide in welded to a stand alone , a wheel rim bottom, pipe upright. for a portable slide-in stand.
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:49 AM
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Re:What is a good workbench?

Hello Runnin'OnEmpty

I don't really have experience of Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Sears but I am sure about Workbench from Toolbox Warehouse
It have Transformable & expendable working space as well as it is tough & sturdy. It costs $316.95. May be it helps you regarding your needs.
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For more details please visit the following web page
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Last edited by OneMoreTime; 08-04-2011 at 04:02 AM. Reason: Advertising. Please see: commercial posting guidelines.
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Old 08-04-2011, 12:45 PM
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Many years ago I worked at a small Pontiac-GMC dealer and the work benches were covered in sheet metal. I do not remember what was under the sheet metal but I would bet it was some kind of 2x? lumber. I do not remember the posts.... Most was covered with oil. Not dripping oil, but just from cleaning for 50 years. The sheet metal made for a good surface, it was bent down in the front and bent to cover the back stop 3" or 4" this was on all benches. No tears in the metals but dents. We cleaned it with Varsole at the end of the job or end of the day.

It worked very well. I have no Idea who bent or broken spots, dents in it the metal (sheet shop?) I worked their from '69-'72. The bench were long before that... I did find model A Ford parts up in the parts shelves. It was not a Ford dealer, because the Ford Dealer was in the same family since there was Ford.....

The town was 2,204 when my dad left for WWII and long past when I graduated HS
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Old 08-21-2011, 06:54 AM
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I had a 68 plymouth fury workbench ,it was great, I stored everything there,a mile long hood and a 1/2 mile long deck,and that roof,holy crap
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:10 AM
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If space is limited you can get some heavy duty hinges and use those to mount the bench top to the wall. Use 2x4 to frame the top and use additional hinges to mount two folding legs on the underside of the top. Drill through the top frame and leg in the down position, then use some long bolts through the drilled hole to keep the leg locked down. A few hasps like for use with padlocks work to hold the top and legs when folded.

When you need the bench, simply lower the top extend the legs and you have your work surface. When you are done fold it all back against the walll for increased floor space.

If you are concerned with the weight of what you are working on and or the sturdiness of the bench, you can also add eyehooks into the wall studs and onto the bench top to connect some chain or cable for additional support.
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:57 AM
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The "Garage Storage and Organization" category of the Hotrodders Knowledge Base has a bunch of workbench design resources that may be helpful: Garage Storage and Organization.
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Old 08-23-2011, 12:29 PM
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Old butcher block counter and we had it wrapped in galvanized sheet metal,lagged to the wall with 4x4 front legs. Cleans up easier than wood and oil or other fluids or chemicals dot hurt it. It is strong enough to do some serious hammering on.
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