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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2010, 07:34 PM
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air still in the Master cylinder-maybe

The valves in the master dont hold with any air bubbles still inside, the air does not allways travel down the lines to the wheels, I saw that someone has mentioned bench bleeding the Master cylinder, this requires some extra time, and sometimes even that allows a small bit of air to remain. In some early years there were bleeders on the master cylinder next to the lines, which would allow placing catch hoses, there, BUT (now lots of plastic designs later) problem still exists, but no bleeders,(much mess under hood) service centers use a pressurized cover fitting on top of the master, also using more brake fluid than most people, wish to purchase.
You can have no air visable at the wheels, and still have some air just before the lines, (in the master).
Once in a while the new master is defective too.
P.S. Anti-lock or anti-skid systems, feel mushy but the vehicle does remain stopped.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2010, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac350
all my lines were replaced.
I assume you mean that you replaced the flex line on the rear axle as well .
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2010, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
I assume you mean that you replaced the flex line on the rear axle as well .
yes i did with ss braded lines.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2010, 12:26 PM
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Have a look here could give you some more insight, your brake problem is solvable.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-su...leshooting.cfm
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2010, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
Have a look here could give you some more insight, your brake problem is solvable.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-su...leshooting.cfm
good site i am going to look in to some of there suggestions.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2010, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scholman
the rear shoes were too loose so all the pressure went to them first and then to the rotors. I took the drums off and adjusted the shoes so they rubbed just a little and then drove the Jeep around.
Your rear brakes have to be adjusted correctly! A "test" of sorts for this is easy: Apply the parking brake a click at a time until you just feel a slight drag from the rear brakes, then loosen one click and see how much the brake pedal feel improves.

The rear brakes are self adjusting by backing up and hitting the brakes repeatedly. If the self adjuster mechanism is frozen up, it will not function as it was designed- you will then need to go in and unstick whatever is causing the problem- it might be the cable even.

If the drums are worn oversize or the shoes are worn down, you might not get a good adjustment on them w/o turning or replacing the drums and/or shoes.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2010, 07:41 PM
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One thing everyone missed, including MP Brakes, is that you have a proportioning valve in that car because of the front disk/rear drum setup. IF you pump the pedal and release the bleeder too fast you will seat the check valve and it seems to be bleed.

Pump the brakes up and open the bleeder SLOWLY
or
open the bleeder and hold a finger over the end , then have someone pump the pedal SLOWLY.
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