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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2010, 02:19 PM
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what the hell is my problem

i got a mushy *** pedal and the brakes wont hold. i did everything i can think of. i am having no luck at all with this.

if anyone has any thing they can add please do.

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Old 09-29-2010, 02:24 PM
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Need more info..........make, model, disk, drum brakes.........Wild guess, air in the system.
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Old 09-29-2010, 02:27 PM
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sorry for not adding that info. i am just so frustrated with this.

87 Pontiac firebird. disk-front drum-rear.

i have changed the master and the booster. i have bled the **** out of the brakes. and no luck.
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:35 PM
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My son has a 87 camaro and I had a problem with his because of the 2 different style brake line flares available. Bubble flare and regular SAE. Did you change any lines or wheel cylinders??? You may have a leak on one of those connections or just not tight enough. I don't know if you could thread them in or not I think the bubble flare is metric and regular flare is SAE. Just a thought. Clean all of your connections good with brake cleaner and pump the brakes and recheck for leaks. Try to use a line wrench and snug them babbies up. Also check to see what type of brake fluid you used some is not compatible with the other and will cause your brakes to fail. BEST OF LUCK!
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Old 09-29-2010, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac350
sorry for not adding that info. i am just so frustrated with this.

87 Pontiac firebird. disk-front drum-rear.

i have changed the master and the booster. i have bled the **** out of the brakes. and no luck.
Try gravity bleeding them. I had a problem on an 80 Chev. 1/2T 4x4 that I changed the m/c on and had the same problem. I pressure bleed them like 6-8 times and still had a mushy pedal. I then gravity bled them and they worked fine (don't know why) but they did.

First make sure the m/c is full. Start with the farthest brake away from the m/c (usually the RR). Put a pan under the wheel to catch the fluid and open the bleeder. It will start dripping slowly at first but should get faster. Let it drip for 15 minutes or so and keep an eye on the fluid level. Keep the m/c full and don't touch the brake pedal. Do the RR first, then the LR, then the RF & at last the LF. It takes an hour or so to do all 4 wheels but hopefully it works for you.
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Old 09-29-2010, 07:06 PM
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i am going to have to try that.

lolol i am tired of bleeding these brakes.
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:17 PM
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Not too long ago there was another guy with the same problem on here . Long story short . He had a brake flex hose that the internal braid was broke in and the hose was blowing up like a baloon when the brakes were applied . May have to have someone work the brakes while you check all three flex lines .
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Not too long ago there was another guy with the same problem on here . Long story short . He had a brake flex hose that the internal braid was broke in and the hose was blowing up like a baloon when the brakes were applied . May have to have someone work the brakes while you check all three flex lines .
Yep, I've seen this too.
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:34 AM
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all my lines were replaced.
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:15 AM
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I had a '69 Camaro way back when and the only way I was able to get all the air out of the system was to pressure bleed the brakes with the engine running , being careful not to bottom out the pedal. You may have already done this, but this triggered a memory .
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:32 AM
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Just to get past any "do'h" moments, make sure the calipers are on the right sides (bleeders on top).
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Old 09-30-2010, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMatch
Just to get past any "do'h" moments, make sure the calipers are on the right sides (bleeders on top).
lolol ya they are. thats the first thing i checked.
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Old 09-30-2010, 02:48 PM
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Is everything stock? A smaller master cylinder bore can seem odd as it will increase pedal travel the same as larger cylinders/calipers. Any lines that go uphill that could trap air? I'm too lazy to look it up, but does it have any anti-loc items on it? 87 was iffy as some cars were starting to see abs. Rear brakes tight? Does it change anything if the park brake is left applied while doing everything else? Are the pads or shoes new and cheap parts that are spongy? Soft pads/shoes compress. Loose wheel bearings?

That's just a quick summary of things I can think of that are sometimes missed. Apply as needed.
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Old 09-30-2010, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac350
all my lines were replaced.
With all the bogus, counterfeited and off shore garbage floating around the replacement parts field, I would still have someone work the brakes while you verified that the lines aren't (either one of them) ballooning.

The master has to be "bench bled" as well. The way I always did this, was to run lines from the ports up into the half-filled reservoir, then use a wooden dowel to gently work the pistons in and out (w/o bottoming them) until the bubbles stopped.

The last MC I installed just recently ('80 Malibu) had plugs instead of the supplied plastic fittings and lines. The plugs were installed, then the MC was pumped w/ the same procedure as when using the lines into the reservoir to bleed it. The bubbles came up from the orifices at the bottom of the reservoir. It was bled when the bubbles stopped.
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Old 09-30-2010, 05:44 PM
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mac350,

My jeep was like that after I turned the rotors, and drums and installing all new parts. I thought it was air in the system but it turned out that the rear shoes were too loose so all the pressure went to them first and then to the rotors. I took the drums off and adjusted the shoes so they rubbed just a little and then drove the Jeep around. Works great.

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