[gavinpierce]

I have a newly rebuilt 327 small block that I am putting into my 54 chevy 210. I have the original radiator from the 235 motor, and I am wondering if I can run this? It is in good shape, and doesn't leak. Or do I need to upgrade this? Thanks! If I can't use this, any suggestions on compatable radiators that fit into 54 chevy's ?

[johnsongrass1]

I don't see a problem. measure the Square inches of a stock 327 and see if it's close.

[GoneNova/406]

sometimes when going from a six to an eight you do have to get a better radiator.you can get a universal griffin radiator in any chevy size you want from jegs for $170.00.you will have to get a trans cooler if you have an automatic but you're better off going that route anyway.they don't have drains either but you can put a petcock in a piece off pipe and put in in your bottom hose for a drain.if you feel like you are still going to add more power to your new motor you can get a 31x19 aluminum dual 1" row radiator for that price.

[leejoy]

you can try that radiator and see how it works. you can always change it later if you have to. an electric fan may help also instead of a belt driven fan. something to think about. the electric fan will run full speed rpm even at idle sitting in traffic where a belt driven fan will run at idle speed when sitting in traffic and not cooling as well as the electric. pay attention to the number of "rows" on the radiator. most smallblock radiators are 2 or 3 row, while big block radiators are 3 or 4 row. that makes a big difference. you can get a new radiator for that thing on e-bay for about $125, or find a used one for about $50.

[86078]

Originally Posted by GoneNova/406

sometimes when going from a six to an eight you do have to get a better radiator.you can get a universal griffin radiator in any chevy size you want from jegs for $170.00.you will have to get a trans cooler if you have an automatic but you're better off going that route anyway.they don't have drains either but you can put a petcock in a piece off pipe and put in in your bottom hose for a drain.if you feel like you are still going to add more power to your new motor you can get a 31x19 aluminum dual 1" row radiator for that price.

I agree here...i used a radiator from a 194 I-6 with my 283 transplant...not enuff to keep it cool...bite the bullet spring for a bigger one...

[ancientiron]

I'm thinkin you can keep your costs down and still have good cooling by useing the 54 radiator. I have run these several times. Have your 54 radiator boiled out and pressure tested, you will have to go to a 12 or 15 lb cap, I run a 190 degree thermostat, also the elec fan is a plus, esp if you can set it up on a thermal switch. ancientiron

[gavinpierce]

Good advice, thanks! I think I will go with a new radiator. Most of my driving will be stop and go around town, so it looks like I should go with an electric fan. What are the negatives with going with an electric fan, rather than a belt driven?

[leejoy]

Originally Posted by gavinpierce

Good advice, thanks! I think I will go with a new radiator. Most of my driving will be stop and go around town, so it looks like I should go with an electric fan. What are the negatives with going with an electric fan, rather than a belt driven?

don't think there any negatives with the electric fan but make sure of the following stuff:

you will need room for the electric fan - typically 4" depth
you will need to wire it to a thermostat or on/off switch on the dashboard
you will need about 10 amps to power it
you may gain 5 HP or more (which is a good thing) by eliminating the belt driven fan.
you can get a 16" round electric fan on ebay for about $50. that's what I did. It's rated for about 2500 CFM. Ideally you want the fan mounted on the engine side of the radiator which "pulls" through the radiator. or you can mount it on the "bumper" side of the radiator and "push" the air through. not the fan rotation will be different for each scenario. simply reverse the 2 wires on the fan motor if it's spinning the wrong way.