What is the latest flat tappet break-in procedure? - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2013, 05:35 PM
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I run standard 10w30 with comp break in additive for initial can break in. Pn#159 I believe
Then out of habit I still use rottela 15w40 but continue using the comp additive at every oil change.
So far so good.

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Old 05-22-2013, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Surfer View Post
WOW! I had no idea these existed! But by the time you plunk down your cash for these lifters, you might as well have done a retro-roller conversion. I guess the argument could be make the retro rollers are heavier and thus bad, but still...if these guys lowered the price on these lifters, I am sure they would be pretty flooded with demand.
The retro-roller is a fix but not an easy one especially when compared to the composite tappet fix.

Those guys can't lower the price. The down side is the very high cost to manufacturer ceramic composites. I was just about to send Howard a buck fifty for their hi-perf roller tappets when my buddy turned me on to SM composite tappets. SM set me back $600 over the next best solution. Business is business. No one can charge $600 over going rate and stay in business if they could sell for less and still make a profit. I'll fenture a guess and say those composite tappets cost SM about 375 to manufacture. The cost of manufacturing does not cover overhead, lawyers taxes and all the other vultures nipping away at yah before you can keep a few bucks for yourself. SM may go broke trying to get $750. They positively will go under selling at a price greater than they pay.

I am not going to claim I know much about how composites are made. I do know it is far more involved than a gluing a piece of ceramic on a steel shank. They use processes that creates a matrix that binds the two materials together. A honey comb is a good example of a matrix. The structure is enormously strong given its light weight. The resultant composite inherits the strengths of its base materials. The weakness of steel is its inability to disperse heat. Iron is a good heat conductor. We cook on iron then put the hot pan on a ceramic plate so not to burn the table. The weakness of ceramic is its brittle nature. What if we can get a material that disperses heat as well as ceramic that has the strength of steel. Now we really have something.

The pressure between the lobe surface and the tappet/lifter creates far more heat than steel can handle. In fact, the pressure is so great it can stall the roller.

I'll give you this. All of the applications successfully using CMC's are high end things like jet aircraft, military armor, and other megabuck stuff.

On the other hand my 500 hp 350 cid build is a megabuck thing in my scheme of things. Ask my wife. She'll gladly tell how much I've thrown at it. She reminds me on a daily basis.

I, am, so happy. My problem is solved forever. Did I mention the break in time and efforts. Their ain't one. Just need to remember to put the oil in after the pan and plug are in place before I go zoom, zooooom, zoooooom. I can't figure how to do the squeeling tire sound so zoom, zoom is my best effort.

I am so happy. Maybe I'll send SM a tip. Hehe
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:48 PM
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I run Brad Penn 15-40 wt. in all my engines. I use it for breakin period also. I use all the required assembly lube, and cam breakin lube that the cam makers spec to warranty their cams.
I've got 30 some qts. of old Valavoline 20-50 Racing Oil I bought NOS in the old cardboard qt. cans not long ago. I'll probably start using it also when I run low on Brad Penn.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:25 PM
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:10 AM
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I'd be remiss not to fess up and say I am a factor in the grossly premature cam failure that recently befell me.
I was following recommended oil additives and oil types that have proven to a degree effective in mitigating the excessive high heat and pressures that we our bump ups put on first gen small block technology. The fact that the work around did not help me was screaming I screwed up somewhere and I really needed to know where to prevent a repeat performance.
I found it.
I got me a set of hi-perf 2.02 double hump heads that came off a 1968 Corvette. I took the heads to a guy with a rep for doing great refurbs. He did a great job. He stripped the heads bear, clean up the seats, did the coating thing and replaced the valves and springs with Summit Racing stainless steel valves with dual springs and the OEM rockers with aluminum rockers that have needle bearing fulcrum and roller tips.
I came across an article last night that warned the dual springs on the top end must be matched with a roller cam system on the bottom end. The flat tappet cam system cannot take the beatings coming down the push rods at it.
It was then I recognized the validity of the retro-roller solution.
Do I regret my composite tappet fix? Not at all. I will admit that I would have opted for the roller cam solution if I was not so torqued at the moment. My twisted head (the one that lives on top of my neck) gave me the motivation to pay for what I knew to be a better solution.
Your input helped me quickly find the errors of my ways.
Thanks for your help.
Later,
Bob
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:23 PM
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Correct Break-in Procedure flat tappets

Always wash camshaft and lifters them thoroughly in clean mineral spirits prior to installation.
Lube the bottom of the lifters with the moly paste provided with the cam. Lube the sides of the lifters with oil. Lube the camshaft lobes with the moly paste supplied with the cam.
Install the camshaft, lifters and timing set. Lubricate the tips of the pushrods with Crane Engine Assembly Lube (99008-1) or motor oil before installation.
Set your valve lash
If possible prime the oiling system.
Preset the ignition to start the engine at a fast idle.
Fire up the engine and bring the engine to a fast idle between 1500 and 3000 RPM. Get the engine running fairly smoothly - tweak later.
Slow to moderate cycle the engine speed from 1500-3000 RPM for about 20-30 minutes.
(I love this one): If something does not sound right, shut it down, find out why. (Take that with a grain of salt. I know from experience you find "why" much faster by giving it a couple, four dozen good goosings)
Let the engine cool, and then drain the crankcase and throw the freaking oil filter in your backyard toxic waste dump.
It is getting late, I'm getting giddy. They really said "properly dispose of the oil filter."
Refill the crankcase with the proper viscosity / API service index mineral oil (not synthetic).
Initial "break-in" is complete.
* Now entering break-in stage 2.
Drive the vehicle normally except avoid prolonged idling.
Change the oil and filter after 500 miles.
Continue using mineral oil for another 5000 miles.
*You are broke. I mean it's broke in.
Change oil/filter. New filter/Synthetic oil *until damn thing blows again (about 30K later).
*Repeat all of the above.
* They did not really, really did NOT say those things either.
Reference:
Performance Parts News
Archive for Camshaft
Article courtesy of Crane Cams
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