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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 08:23 AM
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My thoughts exactly .Randy

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Old 12-08-2013, 08:26 AM
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I'd hate to see where this puts me then!
Your a valued member that I have learned from Lizer so dont cut yourself short...
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:40 AM
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Ok,so a 40 amp machine with ez to find reuseables...would it be better to have the onboard compressor,I do have some good air at the shop but I'd be confined to doing all my cutting there so I'm thinking an onboard compressor would be best..unless they're pron to breakdowns.I'm sure once I start using it I'll never want to take out the battery sawzall again ..I'm lazy and easily spoiled...I figure just what I spent in sawzall blades,cutoff wheels and drill bits alone this year would be enough to cover the machine...
When Mine was down I had to do some cutting with a cutoff wheel a few days..

I was so mad..Once you get use to having it.. You will never want to cut anything with a cutoff wheel again.. Great tool to have and worth ever dollar you spend.. If I started all over from day one,, It would be the first tool I bought..
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:01 AM
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When Mine was down I had to do some cutting with a cutoff wheel a few days..

I was so mad..Once you get use to having it.. You will never want to cut anything with a cutoff wheel again.. Great tool to have and worth ever dollar you spend.. If I started all over from day one,, It would be the first tool I bought..
My exact thoughts.

Cut off tool. Sawzall,
jig saw, two air and an electric power sheet metal shear, a couple of nibblers. All the hand cutters. Lay in a drawer. Mostly unused for years.. Even my set of acty torches, only get used for heating things. Very little cut work..

Another thing it's great for, non sheetmetal.
I do a lot of cylinder head work. Most all 3.1-3.5 Chevy heads need a mill job after 130-160 thousand miles. The old Jamoca shake in the oil pan and no heat syndrome.. When the heads are removed, There are usually two broken exhaust studs broken off in the head.. Mostly they will drill out with a left handed drill bit.
but then you get one that is undrillable or refuses to budge.. Fire up the p-cutter.. Line it up with the broken stud/hole and Psssst. No more broken stud. Clean out hole/threads and there you have it. Poor mans EDM .. BOB

Last edited by BOBCRMAN@aol.com; 12-08-2013 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:06 AM
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Its a big expence for sure,and knowing how I am about quicker and easier(lazy) I know I'll feel the same way...at 1500.00 its out of my range but when you concider all the tools I use for cutting like the chop saw,ac sawzall ,dc sawzall ac drill,dc drill, die grinders etc...then add to that all the wheels,drill bits and blades...its a simple matter of I cant afford NOT to buy one...it'll be cheaper in the long run and it'll pay for itself when the first job is done.
.I just orderd one ,it should be here by the end of the week...
I'll post some pics of this nightmare job I'm getting it for...its been T-boned..what makes it twice as bad is I have to use used parts so I have to do everything twice....
can you imagine a day (in the future) when someone posts a pic of some tin snips they found in grandpas old tool box and asks what the heck are these and what were they used for????
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com View Post
My exact thoughts.

Cut off tool. Sawzall,
jig saw, two air and an electric power sheet metal shear, a couple of nibblers. All the hand cutters. Lay in a drawer. Mostly unused for years.. Even my set of acty torches, only get used for heating things. Very little cut work..
I used my torch only two times this year..
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:14 AM
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I know I'll feel the same way...at 1500.00 its out of my range but when you concider all the tools I use for cutting like the chop saw,ac sawzall ,dc sawzall ac drill,dc drill, die grinders etc...then add to that all the wheels,drill bits and blades...its a simple matter of I cant afford NOT to buy one...it'll be cheaper in the long run and it'll pay for itself when the first job is done.
This is what made me break the bank for mine..
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:28 AM
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I used my torch only two times this year..
LOL,I only used mine once in five years and actually it was someone else using it at the shop 1/4" steel on a log hauler
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:57 AM
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You get more machine for the dollar by avoiding the internal compressor. You KNOW you want a compressor at home too and this is the PERFECT reason to get one of those too.....

I take John's recommendation to heart. Get a decent, but cheap one, now and tuck-a-buck-a-day-away for a future better one when it wears out/breaks. Even throwing your pocket change in a big jar every evening when you get home for 3-4 years will add up to more than you think. This will get you going with a cutter now AND building for future expansion without breaking the bank right now.

I do see name brand used ones on CL once in a while around here, but then you have no warranty either...

If you are near a welding supply store, check with them for trade-ins/upgrades or warranty repaired units.
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Old 12-08-2013, 03:42 PM
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hey,This thing will cut through something thats epoxied.Right?
How about fingers?
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Old 12-08-2013, 03:44 PM
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we used to lay masking tape on the panel as a cutting guide and cut right along the tape, but it never did anything to the masking tape, in fact it left it almost perfectly intact. Never put my finger under there to try it though
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Old 12-08-2013, 03:53 PM
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They don't like paint. I's like a welder, the current has to go back to the ground clamp. If you start it on a bare spot and go slow, it will burn the paint off ahead and keep an arc. For blowing spot welds, it will arc long enough to burn off the paint and then have continuity.

Um, I wear gloves while using a plasma, since it will hold an arc for a couple seconds without continuity and a finger in the way gets fried instantly, so I've been told....
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:27 PM
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I discovered that a piece of cheap trim was the perfect thickness to use as a guide for my plasma.

I lay the ceramic collar on top of the trim and the electrode against the side of it. This leaves a gap between the electrode and the material you are cutting which will greatly increase the life of the electrode. I am not sure if it will work with all torches but I would think a similar system could be improvised.

For me it is next to impossible to use my plasma free hand.

I find with mine, I need clean metal to start the cut but it will burn through paint or rust once the arc is struck.

John

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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 05:23 PM
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My present p-cutter has a circular wire guide that clips to the ceramic. This rubs right on the material being cut and against anything used as a guide. I use a wooden yardstick or ruler and allow about 3/8" to the center of the cut.

Complicated patterns I make from poster board and masking tape.. Just made an aluminum air filter base using a cereal bowl and an old disc brake rotor for a pattern. Just about anything will work..

Haven't lost a finger yet. Got them warm a few times tho..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-5pcs-Spa...item3a7c69bfb5

Last edited by BOBCRMAN@aol.com; 12-08-2013 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:02 PM
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Thermal-Dynamics brand by Victor is suppose to be one of the best lower end units that you can buy. Or at least that is what my tool guy tells me and he sells more than one brand. I would like one but it's going to have to wait.
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