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Old 05-19-2011, 01:42 PM
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what to look for when shopping for use milling machine

I always wanted one to go with my lathe.
I want it to be single phase
and 220v

this one is (7x22) for 1100


and this one is (10x32) for 1100


my budget is 700-1000 bucks

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Old 05-19-2011, 09:38 PM
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3 phase converter

I bought one at an auction like the green one for $ 150, It included all metric collets, a few bits and fly cutter, Keyless drill chuck. and 110 v power feed. it had a clothes dryer plug on it and I thought it was single plase ..CHECK the Motor tag. it just hummed when I plugged it in. I bought a used 3 phase capacitator type converter for another $ 100 and wired it up with and old 3 phase motor. They only give you 2/3 of the rated motor HP> it won't run at full speed with a big cutter. the stating procedure, turn on the main power switch to the converter, turn on the slave motor, then turn on the Mill, turn off the slave motor . A dedicated rotory converter is easier to use, costs more, but gives you more horsepower.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:33 PM
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how do u find out about auctions for this kind of gear?
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Old 05-28-2011, 05:18 PM
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I wouldn't go with the round column. I have one.. Not a big fan.
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:25 PM
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Johnny beat me to it, avoid round column mills like the plague! Also don't be so quick to avoid three phase machines because they can be an advantage instead of a problem even if you only have single phase power available. Three phase machines usually go for a lot less money and the money saved can buy you a VFD to run the Three phase on single phase power but with a huge advantage. Far from the older phase converters the VFDs let you have variable speed (very desirable for a mill) plus instant reverse all with a single control.


Now for the mill itself, IMO a good Bridgeport or one of the many Taiwanese (not Chinese) BP clones is the way to go. Smaller benchtop mills are like smaller lathes, they may seem like they will be ok but you will likely run into serious limitations that you simply can't foresee when shopping for the machine, besides a decent BP or clone can be had for about the same price as most smaller mills.

Another thing to consider if choosing between two or more used machines is what tooling comes with them, tooling can easily cost more than the mill. For instance you will have to have a good milling vise and a decent Kurt will easily cost $500 or more so if one is included it makes a big difference. If however someone includes a Chinese milling vise with the machine you will still need to buy one and use the Chinese vise for a boat anchor because that's all they are good for!
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Old 06-04-2011, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jss
how do u find out about auctions for this kind of gear?
http://www.industrialauctioneers.org/
http://www.tauberaronsinc.com/calendar.html
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:35 PM
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Hey now, I use a chinese vice!! Sure, it's probably accurate +/- 1.00", but it keeps the work on the table, instead of flying at my head.
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:36 PM
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milling machine

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyK81
Hey now, I use a chinese vice!! Sure, it's probably accurate +/- 1.00", but it keeps the work on the table, instead of flying at my head.
When buying any machine tool, check for slop, it will kill you if you want to make anything tight. even when you are making parts that are not important, just showy parts, if you want more than one, the more slop the harder the parts are to make.

Having had a machine shop, I look at how the machine will serve me, I want a machine to work for me, make anything I want. So check the bed, the spindle, won't do you any good to have a bent one, or bad bearings.

Bob
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