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What main bearings should i get for my 383 stroker?
I have a 1973(generation 1) Chevy 350 small block that is already .030 over. I am getting the stroker crank new, so i must use 350 bearings. From what i have been told clevite series h is the best for its buck. i am planning for about 400 hp. It has stock 4 bolt main.
Also i have the block at the the machine shop and i am ordering parts so what do they mean my upper or downward groove? and with the information i have given could you tell me. Any heads new heads/ used heads you would recommend i have old 1.94 heads that I can "rebuild" or buy 2.02s And lastly if there are any comments or suggestions for my 383, please offer them so I can take them into consideration because i am still very early in the build? thank you very much |
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ok thank you, and yes i am using a cast crank.
Also, std 350 bearings are correct right? because on the summit website the journal size for the 3.75 stroke crank is one thousanths different then the std 350. Do u recomend a kit for the heads? or a valve/guide brand or any brand for certain parts of the head. and what kind of combustion chamber volume do the 350 1.94 heads create. just wondering because i am planning to use a 5.7 rod with 12 cc dished pistons and i want to make sure i dont get to dangerous of a compression ratio. |
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Std 350 bearings are correct.
Being in the machine shop business. I usually have a lot of head cores around. Most 350 Chevy production heads are about 76 cc. I usually mag/check the core, check for bad studs, bad/worn guides, repair with bronze liners, then mill .005-.010" to flat. I usually have a bunch of Vortec valves around. These are a good quality street valve, single groove and decent flow. Polish the back sides, cut two angles and install them in the heads that are lightly bowl blended, rough port match and three angled seat. Most of these get a "Z/28" style spring and aftermkt steel 7 degree retainers. NO shields. About 110 lbs on the seat. Most of this type engine gets less than .500" lift cams so there is no problem with pulled studs, guide plates, hydraulic lifters and cam break in wear. Blue Fel-Pro positive intake seals and rubber umbrella exhaust seals work great. |
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thank you for all the help.
just for future knowledge in most cases h series is really needed with a forged crank? |
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