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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2009, 08:28 PM
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thanks man. i appreciate any help you can give me

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2009, 08:31 PM
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im sorry the info is so limited this entire truck is a mystery to me...
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83SILVRADO
for curtis

ratio is 373
my tires are narrow as hell
its a daily driver
mild cam
not sure about compression
headers with glasspacks

im sorry if im appearing to be the dick in this but calling my motor next to stock as insulting to me.


Yeah, very very close to stock. Headers and glasspacks do not a hot rod make. So........no idea of compression, no mention of heads........yup. Nearly stock. I'd put a tunnel ram on it with two Dominators. The taller the intake the faster you'll go...........through fuel.......
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:27 PM
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To go faster your gonna need to learn how to swap cams or heads, both of which are fairly easy. The 3.73's will help support a larger cam too. Vortec on the cheap or some darts/world products/summit/edelbrock on the aftermarket. An XE268 cam would go nicely, even a little bigger if its your hotrod.

In terms of easy bolt ons 1.6 ratio roller rockers will help the cam move more air into the engine.
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:02 PM
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Ok, here goes. The manifold you have right now is going to be hard to beat. A Edelbrock Performer RPM Airgap MAY be better but it really depends on your cam, heads, ect ect.

A tunnel ram is considered by most to be a race only intake manifold. They tend to have very poor street manners, like poor idling poor torque below 3000 rpm. The normal power band is around 3000-9000 rpm's They are also going to be considerably more difficult to tune with 2 carburetors.

I don't know anyone who would recommend one for a mild engine and a daily driver. You may want to check out this post, there is a lot of information on them here pros and cons. In theory their great but in practice most people have a hard time getting them dialed in. Tunnel Ram information

Jordon
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2009, 11:36 PM
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I know that more expensive parts are fun to show and brag on. I have jonesed for go faster parts when it wasn't nessesary. I went against others advise and maked my ride slower. The best way to decide on an intake or any other part for that matter is ask yourself what kind of R's am on going to run on the top and low end. If you want it idle at 700-800 you will want different parts than if it idles at 1200-1500. Do you have an over drive trans? Tire size is the height not wideth. Short tires have to turn more to go the same distance as tall tires. They need to know your gearing to know where in the rev range you spend most of your time.
I had a car with 2.73 gears, 28in tires, and no d/o and would do 128mph at 4500rpm. I didn't need a RPM intake because I spent time below 1500. That is the kinda info they need and what they think about. More hp CAN make a slower street car.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 11:32 AM
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83'

what tranny is in the truck,,,,3 speed auto, over drive auto, 5 speed manual????

what is the height of the tires (the outside diameter) 28",34" ??"

3.50 gears are the most common oem ratio in a pick up truck so your 3.73 ratio is next to stock...

by a long shot, the best bang for the buck to wake up a heavy vehicle performance is lower gears....

that directly mulitples the flywheel TQ applied to the tires at any and all rpms and whether driving normal or messing around...
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 11:48 AM
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turbo 350 so a three spd
the tires are 28 inches tall
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 12:46 PM
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I'd leave the intake and get a set of OEM heads that are ported and rebuilt with smaller chambers, that along with maybe a budget cam swap would help a lot.

Your intake is a perfect match, don't change it. you need more compression and MAYBE a different cam. I say maybe because you don't know what is in it and it may be a fairly good cam to start with. There are two ways of finding out. You can get a degree wheel and a mc and measure the lift, duration, and LSA and get the info you need, or you can pull it out and look for a part number. I prefer using a degree wheel some people prefer just pulling it out. Some ported out 416 heads would probably do more for you than anything else- that is if you have 64cc heads, if you have 76cc heads, then stepping to some "camel humps" would be a good bet. you want more compression, but not a LOT more, maybe just a point or so. Porting out your runners and gasket matching it all is really going to help too. Just remember you don't need huge runners, just stream lined ones. Smaller is better, especially in a stock truch that is a daily driver. I would try to get your compression to about 9.5:1, keep your intake, get yoru heads flow up without making the runners too big, and get a small cam that is close to a single pattern and on a tight LSA.

After you get a good set of heads and good compression the 264mega cam from Isky would suit you quite well. Install it 4 advaced since its a truck and you'd be sitting pretty. If you do your own porting the heads, cam, and misc. should run you a total of about $500-$600- cheaper if you shop around.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 04:16 PM
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28" tires, no over drive tranny= 3.73 is about as low a ratio as practical for hwy speed rpms...

correctly matching the ign timing to the cam is critical and very often results in a 20-30HP gain...
if it is the oem pickup truck distributor fair chance it is set up wrong for the cam...
(often they have 26*'s+ of centrifugal advance and not all in until 3500rpms+ with only 34*'s total at a stock 8* base timing )

here's a article link that explains cam duration versus ign timing:

http://www.gnetworks.com/v4files/bar...withimages.pdf

due to your low CR and with the 3.73 gears you should be able to run a aggressive timing curve without WOT ping....
something like 16* base and 20* centrifugal for 36* total all in at 2800rpms....

Last edited by red65mustang; 03-01-2009 at 04:29 PM.
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