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Old 03-12-2009, 09:01 PM
redride's Avatar
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What oil weight to use

For many years everyone used 30 weight oil but now days it is hard to find just 30, 5-30, 10-30, 20-40 etc. seems to be the norm. The stroked Gen IV I am building has a roller cam and I am almost done but am at a loss on what oil to run for break in, then what to use daily. Clue me in.

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Old 03-12-2009, 10:12 PM
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Good to hear you have a roller in that BBC, from what I've read and hear, breaking in hydralic flats are even worse in a big block than a small block.

A few more questions might point us in the right direction...

Do you know your clearances on the rods and mains?
Stock type pump or high volume or HV/HP?
Intended RPM level? (this really isn't too much of a factor but I still like to know)
Street or Strip...both?
What are open/close specs on the valve springs?

If it's a street build with a stock type pump and relatively mild roller, less than two thousandths clearances, I would break in on Rotella 15w-40 or VR1 10w-30 and I would NOT use an oil additive such as GM EOS or Comp 159 in this instance... but if it's not a warmed over stock build, gives some more info and I'm sure everyone can form an opinion from which you can choose what suites your needs.

Beware though, this oil thing is like opening a can of worms! (Most of the time )
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Old 03-12-2009, 10:14 PM
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Hi,
Here is some oil viscosity information.
Rich

PS You can use whatever oil your going to run with to break in a roller, you don't run into needing the additive you need for flat taps.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=7007302

Last edited by richard stewart 3rd; 03-12-2009 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 03-13-2009, 12:37 PM
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I do not know the clearances on the rods and mains and this will be mostly a street motor with some strip use. The RPM range will be around 6000 (should not have to twist this 505 much to get what I want)! As far as the springs they are comp cam #26120 and the specs are: seat load 1.55 @ 1.880, open load 377 @ 1.280 and spring rate of 370. I am pulling out my origional 396 from my nova SS which I use synthetic in. I know not to use Synthetic until I have the motor broken in. The new motor does have a high volume oil pump and a Big Mutha Thumper hyd. roller cam.
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Old 03-13-2009, 12:41 PM
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Also I forgot to mention that I live in Central Texas, very hot summers which is when the car is driven the most. I do drive the car year round when the weather is nice.
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Old 03-13-2009, 12:46 PM
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single-weight oils are old-school. They'll do fine, but they were used before additive technology allowed for more viscosity options. Using straight-weight oils are usually left to race engines that spend 99% of their time at one temperature. In a modern engine that constantly sees the full range of temps, a multi-viscosity oil is a little better.

You can use an oil pressure gauge to find your own weight if you don't know how the engine was built. If it was a standard rebuild or a stock engine then 10w30 should do the trick. But, you're shooting for 15-20 psi at hot idle and 60-70 ish at redline. Anything below 10-15 at idle is too low. Anything over 70-80 up top is too high. Choose an oil that puts you in that 20-70 range. More isn't better. If you find that 20w50 gives you 30 at idle and 80 at redline, that sounds nice and healthy, but that also means that the thick oil is having a tough time getting in those bearings when its cold. Since 90% of engine wear happens when its cold, you can't assume that more is better.

The rule of thumb is that the engine needs 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. Most pumps supply more than that at idle, but consider that a minimum. 50 psi at 5000, 30 psi at 3000, etc. I think you'll find that 10w30 will put you right in the sweet spot.
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:07 PM
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Thanks for the info. guys! The price you pay these days for a good quality hotrod motor is not cheap and I just want to make sure I get this motor broken in right. I suess I will give 10w-30 a shot upon start up and go from there.
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