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Old 06-29-2013, 01:43 PM
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What Primer?

I have been working on the hood of my Z-28 and I ready to apply some primer to it and I am not sure what to get, the hood is the SMC type plastic or fiberglass that came on the 82 Z-28's. I bonded a fiberglass L-88 hood scoop to it and have been in the process of sanding things smooth. I used one of 3-M's 2 part epoxy that was recommended for bonding the scoop to the hood after cutting out the center and used Evercoat filler since it was recommended to use with the types of materials both the hood and scoop are made of and put a couple layers on sanding each down before using some filler to finish out the last of the imperfections. I started with 80 grit and have worked my up to 220 grit getting things smooth, what should I use? Thanks for any input.

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Old 06-29-2013, 06:06 PM
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A couple of pics to show what it is done thus far.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:17 AM
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epoxy is the best to use on fiberglass; if the fiberglass did not already come pre-UV cured, then let it sit in the sun for 5 days to UV cure prior to priming with epoxy.
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Old 06-30-2013, 12:30 PM
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epoxy and then 2-3 coats of urethane 2K primer and then block it out and put another 2-3 coats and block that as well.
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:48 PM
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Thanks for the replies, I want to get this done right and look good so I have been asking lots of questions to be sure I am. Another question, since this hood is going to be white, do I go with white primer or is gray ok? At what point do I do a glide coat to check for flatness?

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Old 07-01-2013, 05:52 PM
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You can apply guide coat after it cures, white is fine...because your painting the car white...but more difficult to see any waves in the body work. Grey will be Okay as well and make it easier to see any flaws in the body work with respect to straightness.

Ray
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:04 AM
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I was at the auto paint store here in Elyria to talk to someone about what I was doing and to see what they recommended. After he asked me some questions about what I was doing, type of surfaces, and when I planned on painting the hood he recommended going with lacquer build type primer as he said there is no time window as there is with epoxy primers. I plan on using a single stage urethane paint and clear. I will have the original hood computer analyzed since the paint is 20 years old so that the paint for the new hood can be mixed to replicate the color. Excuse my lack of knowledge, but I am trying to learn. I have a guy who will be painting the hood when the time comes, I just want to get it prepped. One more question, the underside of the scoop which is the ruff side of the fiberglass, I would like to get it smooth as well, do I use plastic filler to fill it in and sand to get it smooth? Will it hold and not cause future problems? Thanks for all the input with this project.
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cc82z-28 View Post
I was at the auto paint store here in Elyria to talk to someone about what I was doing and to see what they recommended. After he asked me some questions about what I was doing, type of surfaces, and when I planned on painting the hood he recommended going with lacquer build type primer as he said there is no time window as there is with epoxy primers. I plan on using a single stage urethane paint and clear. I will have the original hood computer analyzed since the paint is 20 years old so that the paint for the new hood can be mixed to replicate the color. Excuse my lack of knowledge, but I am trying to learn. I have a guy who will be painting the hood when the time comes, I just want to get it prepped. One more question, the underside of the scoop which is the ruff side of the fiberglass, I would like to get it smooth as well, do I use plastic filler to fill it in and sand to get it smooth? Will it hold and not cause future problems? Thanks for all the input with this project.
I avoid getting advice from the PBE suppliers almost always. There is no time window with the epoxy I use, which is,...surprise! SPI. And it will be far better for putting down first on fiberglass than whatever he is recommending.
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cc82z-28 View Post
I was at the auto paint store here in Elyria to talk to someone about what I was doing and to see what they recommended. After he asked me some questions about what I was doing, type of surfaces, and when I planned on painting the hood he recommended going with lacquer build type primer as he said there is no time window as there is with epoxy primers. I plan on using a single stage urethane paint and clear. I will have the original hood computer analyzed since the paint is 20 years old so that the paint for the new hood can be mixed to replicate the color. Excuse my lack of knowledge, but I am trying to learn. I have a guy who will be painting the hood when the time comes, I just want to get it prepped. One more question, the underside of the scoop which is the ruff side of the fiberglass, I would like to get it smooth as well, do I use plastic filler to fill it in and sand to get it smooth? Will it hold and not cause future problems? Thanks for all the input with this project.
If your after a durable primer...I would stop taking advice from your paint store Elyria. The man is wrong. The primer he's recommending is based on the same primer principals that Henry Ford brushed on his vehicles over 100 years ago...there are much superior products out there today.

The man mentioned no time window with Lacquer primer...he's right on that part, but, you still need to sand the primer to get adhesion. Epoxy primers give you a "window" where you do not need to sand, usually between 3 and 7 days depending on brand and if you choose the right brand, the new technology Epoxy primer will sand and give you more build with added rust protection thrown in. Lacquer primer is a sponge, it will soak up moisture, Epoxy primer is a barrier that will not allow moisture to penetrate and start rust from forming under the primer.

I don't know what you mean by having the paint computer analysed but, if it's the camera that is supposed to computer match paint...don't trust it, especially on metallic colors, you will have about a 95% chance that it will not match, especially if the paint is 20 years old.

Without seeing the underneath of your hood it's a little difficult to recommend a product, it would be easier if I knew how "rough" it was, for minor filling, plastic fillers would work, if you have some areas that require more than 1/4 inch of filling, other methods should be used.

I don't mean to sound negative, but, Lacquer primer is old technology and your not putting lacquer paint over top. I've been dealing with the color matching cameras for over about years, they didn't work then, i haven't seen them work recently either, nothing can beat a human eye that can see color and tint to match.

Best Regards
Ray
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
If your after a durable primer...I would stop taking advice from your paint store Elyria. The man is wrong. The primer he's recommending is based on the same primer principals that Henry Ford brushed on his vehicles over 100 years ago...there are much superior products out there today.

The man mentioned no time window with Lacquer primer...he's right on that part, but, you still need to sand the primer to get adhesion. Epoxy primers give you a "window" where you do not need to sand, usually between 3 and 7 days depending on brand and if you choose the right brand, the new technology Epoxy primer will sand and give you more build with added rust protection thrown in. Lacquer primer is a sponge, it will soak up moisture, Epoxy primer is a barrier that will not allow moisture to penetrate and start rust from forming under the primer.

I don't know what you mean by having the paint computer analysed but, if it's the camera that is supposed to computer match paint...don't trust it, especially on metallic colors, you will have about a 95% chance that it will not match, especially if the paint is 20 years old.

Without seeing the underneath of your hood it's a little difficult to recommend a product, it would be easier if I knew how "rough" it was, for minor filling, plastic fillers would work, if you have some areas that require more than 1/4 inch of filling, other methods should be used.

I don't mean to sound negative, but, Lacquer primer is old technology and your not putting lacquer paint over top. I've been dealing with the color matching cameras for over about years, they didn't work then, i haven't seen them work recently either, nothing can beat a human eye that can see color and tint to match.

Best Regards
Ray
Thanks for the replies, that's why come here for ideas and suggestions, I have found great people who have worked these types of issues and know what works. As for the computer matching of the color, it has been used a couple of times in the past with this white color on the car with very good results, I agree that maybe with metallic it could be an issue. As for the underside of the scoop, though it is rough, I have hand sanded it some to know off the high spots but would like to make it smoother.
I see that Lizer says he uses an epoxy primer that is SPI, is that a brand or type primer? Again, thanks for the replies and advice.
Chet
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:24 AM
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Ok, I did a google search and found the answer to what is SPI and it is the brand so now I doing a little research on it to see where to buy and more info.
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:20 AM
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Ok, I did a google search and found the answer to what is SPI and it is the brand so now I doing a little research on it to see where to buy and more info.
Don't make this more difficult than it needs to be. Here is their website

Home

Call their customer service number and they'll tell you if there is a jobber near you. If not, you can order it over the phone and they'll ship it to you free. Usually arrives in two days. If you have technical question, calling the tech line will take you to the owner (Barry) phone. He posts here too. Call it seven days a week, any reasonable hour of the day, he'll talk your ear off about what to do.

It's a top quality product and at a good price.
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:39 PM
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X2 on what Liser mentioned and by all means call SPI's tech line for more information. Barry K at SPI is extremely knowledgeable, not only with his his products but will give you only sound advice, well worth the call.

I had used PPG's DP line of Epoxy exclusively for several decades with good results, I have since then tried SPI's Epoxy and it does outperform what I have used in the past. It does have build capabilities and unlike PPG's DP Epoxy, it is sandable. Great for fiberglass as well.

As far as the computer generated formula's for color match....and White is the hardest color (of solids) to match...the only advice I can give you is to tread lightly with respect to faith in the color match...in other words, if color match is a main priority and your not painting a complete car, purchase a small amount, apply it on a spray out card, let it cure (very important) and make sure you are happy with the color...just my opinion from experience.

Ray
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:39 PM
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X2 on what Liser mentioned and by all means call SPI's tech line for more information. Barry K at SPI is extremely knowledgeable, not only with his his products but will give you only sound advice, well worth the call.

I had used PPG's DP line of Epoxy exclusively for several decades with good results, I have since then tried SPI's Epoxy and it does outperform what I have used in the past. It does have build capabilities and unlike PPG's DP Epoxy, it is sandable. Great for fiberglass as well.

As far as the computer generated formula's for color match....and White is the hardest color (of solids) to match...the only advice I can give you is to tread lightly with respect to faith in the color match...in other words, if color match is a main priority and your not painting a complete car, purchase a small amount, apply it on a spray out card, let it cure (very important) and make sure you are happy with the color...just my opinion from experience.

Ray
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:50 PM
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Just a little heads up on trying to match whites, be well aware that the clear in many cases will darken the white basecoat even if it is a dead on match to the cars color before you clear it. Can be a nightmare, some times when trying to blend.
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