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Old 06-15-2006, 11:38 AM
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What Primer is best for multi-surface's

Ok like I've said before im very new to the auto paint world and im about to tackle my first paint job...I cant wait, but I can't rush either! Obviosly going to bare metal is the right way (and only way for some), but in my case whoever, whether professional or not, did a nice job already getting the car straight. In fact if I went to bare metal I feel like I would be doing work that someone else has already done...and most likely better than myself. I plan on sanding down as much paint as I can, and already have in most spots. What I have now is an almost cool looking rainbow of body fillers, red, the cars original primer, glaze / spot putty and some bare metal on parts of the car (door and hood).

For my first coat of primer on top of all this what kind of primer do I use? , do I use a surface, etch primer, or go with an epoxy, then a 2k on top of that..I plan on buying all my products from one company to ensure chemical "friendship".

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Old 06-15-2006, 05:58 PM
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?? Anyone? I'll be ordering paint soon and I just need pointed in the right direction on where to start.
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Old 06-15-2006, 07:14 PM
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I would recommend shooting the whole thing with epoxy. The reasoning for this is to seal everything that is there, including the bare metal. You can then spray a 2k primer over that and do any block sanding that you need to do, or add any filler needed over the epoxy.

As far as the products, I would keep to the same brands as far as Primer/activator/reducers and such. You don't have to use the same brand primer as base or clear. They should all work fine together. I personally use only SPI primers and clears, but if they don't carry the color I want I use Dupont or Sherwin Williams bases. Those products all work for me. Others may have different choices.

Hope this helps.

Aaron
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Old 06-15-2006, 07:35 PM
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Aaron is right on. Shoot 2 coats of epoxy and your sealed. Block it out some with 180 and fill any spots with finishing putty and spot cover those with epoxy after there blocked down. Then shoot your 2K primer and get it perfect for paint.
If it's really bad,after the epoxy shoot a polyester filler primer like Evercoat Feather Fill G2 or Slick Sand and level it out. These are sprayable "finishing putty" and build well and cure out hard but are easy to sand. Then 2K primer or a sealer if you need the proper primer color.
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Old 06-16-2006, 06:57 AM
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Great, thanks guys. Thats kinda what I figured as the epoxy would be a strong hard ground coat..Although on the House of kolor tech sheets for their Epoxy they they state "Do not apply KP-*** over old paint or uncatalyzed primers....KP-*** can be applied over OEM factory primers.

The say the KO-SEAL II (sealer) can be applied over properly prepared previous painted surfaces, and can aslo be used as a primer...

Despite their Tech sheets I still believe EPOXY is the strongest ground coat, but if I just use the KO-SEAL II then I would save money on not even using the epox, and shoot the base on the sealer. Any thoughts?
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Old 06-16-2006, 06:33 PM
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Evercoat Feather Fill G2 or Slick Sand and level it out. These are spray able "finishing putty" and build well and cure out hard but are easy to sand .
Bee4, I'm sitting here with sanding dust all over me from the Slick Sand I have been sanding.
How much easier is regular 2K primer surfacer to sand compared to the polyester surfacer? I started sanding with 80 grit to knock down the orange peel. It's pretty hard material.
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:46 PM
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A little.
That's the reason I usually wet sand the poly stuff. It seems easier to me.
I just got thru doing the duelly flairs about 30 min ago with G2 (used a 2.2 tip) and had no problem with "dust" Hehehe.
WET shoes I got, But no dust.
IF you o'peeling the stuff very bad. You need to back off the fluid a little or reduce it say,10% with some Acetone. It will spray out slick with a little reduction which is the best way IMO.
Also, With the Summer temps, I go a "little" less on the activator. So, Instead of a 1/4 per 1/4 qt. I go with about 2/3 of the "1/4". Potlife in high temps is SHORT and a little less activator is really needed when above say,90* IMO.
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Old 06-19-2006, 07:02 AM
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With the car being multi surfaced, I've sprayed rattle car primer (dupont high build) on the car and plan on using it as a spot coat. Before the Epoxy or KO-Seal

Then I think the way to go should be the KO-SEAL II from HOK. Layer it w/ about 3 wet, then block sand, and shoot the base. Is leaving out the epoxy a "bad" idea? According to HOK tech sheets, its not, yet I'v not nothing but good on the epoxy durability and strength.

I like the idea of the G2, but I really don't think it's necessary in my case (coarse what do I know).

Please excuse my amature like questions..this is everyday lingo to you most, but us first timers have to jump in and start ourselves at one point.
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