[a69446b]

I think I know just enough to be dangerous and really screw up my project and every time I think I have it figured out I read something to change my mind.

I have the car stripped to the shell most of the body is good and there has been metal replaced properly (a few years back) The top side of the car was coated in dp90 (original).
I want to start on the under carridge. Car is a unibody Dodge.
I have already bought a gallon of dplf 90.

I have already sanded and stripped the front wheel wells and engine compartment mostly to bare metal but some of the old pain is pretty stuborn.
I'm now working on stripping under floors and trunk (underside) I hav'nt decieded if I'm going to paint or leave it in DPLF.

Should I?
1.clean metal, wash with dx1791, prime w/k38 and top with DPLF

2.clean metal wash w/1791, DPLF then k38 then top w/DPLF

3. just DPLF then k38 then DPLF for a finish

4.Face that I'll never figure this out

can I leave some of the old paint and just sand down the engine compartment that has already been sanded primed with DP90 and painted 10 years ago and go over the top of this with the same procedure or do I have to go bare metal all the way?
am i on the right track???

[baddbob]

Any of the proceedures you listed would work, but IMO I would skip the wash primer. The only time you need the K38 surfacer is if you plan on sanding and need the build it provides. The epoxy will go on the bare metal and offer excellent adhesion if you sand with 80grit for a good surface texture. The old dp90 on your firewall can be primed over with DPLF or K38 if you scuff it with a red scotchbrite pad. Using the wash primer would offer just a tad bit better adhesion but nothing durabilitywise IMO. The only time I use a wash primer is when working on panels that can't be properly sanded for application of epoxy. Bob

[a69446b]

if you plan on sanding and need the build it provides.



Thanks for the reply. You think that k38 will cover pitting on the underbody from surface rust? I hope so cause I bought some today. Expensive sucker. I think I may just put the primer on first and use the dplf for a top coat. can you use a flattend clear over dplf?
Thanks for the help.

[theHIGHLANDER]

I never understood the oxymoron of flattened clear coat. Makes no sense and looks cloudy and dingy. Maybe I just never took to it. The dplf is fine as is as long as no excessive UV's are present. If you didn't open it yet, or insist on using it for corrosion resistance (excellent for that), you may want to look at (dare I say it ) DAR Matte black. It's pre mixed semi gloss black, very durable in a utilitarian kinda way, has a just right looking OEM finish, and is wallet friendly. Our treasures don't ever see the abuse they did when new and todays products are superior. Just a lil perspective sharing.