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Old 07-03-2007, 06:56 AM
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What to put on bare metal

G'day all,
Can anyone tell me what some people use to cover bare metal cars to stop them from rusting while your doing body work. I see cars being built by Troy Trepanier, Chip Foose and Boyd Coddington and always see them in bare metal with no surface rust. I have 4 cars I am doing at once and urgently need advice.
Ruts.

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Old 07-03-2007, 08:06 AM
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Those guys are in the land of the dry climates relative humidity of about 5%, that's probably and exaggeration but it's probably not far from the truth. The only way I know to stop rust on bare metal is to use a good primer sealer that is rated to with stand moisture. Go to your local paint store and ask them. I know here in the rust belt you will have flash rust in about 20 to 30 min. from the humidity alone. Good luck Brian
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Old 07-03-2007, 09:13 AM
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The only thing that will hold up on bare metal exposed to the climate is epoxy primer. Southern Polyurethane has one if not the best self etching epoxy primer on the market. You can go with a brand name like PPG and pay three times the price and not get the protection of SPI.

Vince
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Old 07-03-2007, 09:14 AM
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I've heard of people using Ospho, although I've never used the product myself-I know there are other products out there, but I have a problem with having a product under my paint-

Even though I live in one of the driest Climates in the U.S., my Cars can flash rust in a week or two if I leave bare Metal. Maybe it's not too smart, but I will put on a coat of Epoxy Primer (after Media Blasting) and then do Body work-

Here Ospho:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=557&familyName=Ospho+Metal+Tre atment&history=AdWordsOspho&engine=adwords!6456&ke yword=ospho&match_type=
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Old 07-03-2007, 09:17 AM
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There have been numerous reports on this site of paint lifting problems associated with the use of Ospho. I no longer use it on surfaces that are going to get finish paint.

Vince
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:39 AM
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I've used Nason(DuPont) and SPI epoxy. The Nason dries like a rock and is good protection. The SPI gives as good a level of protection, can be sanded reasonable easy, especially in the first week. After that, you have to be more aggressive. Personally, I have had some problems with SPI epoxy orange peeling but I believe it to be my technique (or lack thereof) and will continue to use it until I get it right . There are some here that use SPI epoxy as their only undercoat, sand to perfection then BC/CC.

Dave
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:50 AM
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If the expoxy is orange peeling on you, open the gun up a little more or cut the material a little more and SPI epoxy will lay like glass...if your body is good enough to just use small amounts of filler and epoxy as your "build" primer, I can't think of any way better to paint with today's materials...if not, SPI's
choice of 2K's is excellent and I think you get the best paint job you can buy anywhere today, for less IMHO....Dave
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAYzr
If the expoxy is orange peeling on you, open the gun up a little more or cut the material a little more and SPI epoxy will lay like glass...if your body is good enough to just use small amounts of filler and epoxy as your "build" primer, I can't think of any way better to paint with today's materials...if not, SPI's
choice of 2K's is excellent and I think you get the best paint job you can buy anywhere today, for less IMHO....Dave
Interesting that the trunk lid, and the 2 rear fenders turned out perfect but the frame horn covers and a couple of other small parts make a corn cob look smooth. The fronts were done a while back and 2K'd and are slick as a baby's bottom.

I wish that this Brookville body was good enough - the trunk lid and doors had many lows and have a lot more filler then they should but have inner panels that make it difficult to bump them back plus they are made from a very soft steel that distorts easily. They are fine now, but Rage filler is not my way to do body work.
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Old 07-03-2007, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Interesting that the trunk lid, and the 2 rear fenders turned out perfect but the frame horn covers and a couple of other small parts make a corn cob look smooth. The fronts were done a while back and 2K'd and are slick as a baby's bottom.

I wish that this Brookville body was good enough - the trunk lid and doors had many lows and have a lot more filler then they should but have inner panels that make it difficult to bump them back plus they are made from a very soft steel that distorts easily. They are fine now, but Rage filler is not my way to do body work.
ah Yes, Tv has made skimming with filler the way to do it...my hats off to you for doing better...The Brookville may have problems, but man what a way to go and sure is better that the original stuff if you could find it...You sound like a craftsman, and craftsmen in anything is becoming as scarce as 32 Fords! Prudent use of all of todays' top end materials will usually produce excellent results
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Old 07-03-2007, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAYzr
ah Yes, Tv has made skimming with filler the way to do it...my hats off to you for doing better...The Brookville may have problems, but man what a way to go and sure is better that the original stuff if you could find it...You sound like a craftsman, and craftsmen in anything is becoming as scarce as 32 Fords! Prudent use of all of todays' top end materials will usually produce excellent results
Thanks for the kind words.
I am not an autobody man but an OF retired project engineer/manager so a lot of things are going very slowly. If you go to the vendor critique area on this forum you will see some of my trouble spots using Brookville products - mine must have been built on a Monday after a long holiday weekend. There are more comments and some photos on another forum(CHR) as well As far as finish materials, SPI undercoats except for Everfil Rage and poly primer, DuPont BC and SPI Universal CC sprayed mostly with an Iwata LPH400 or my primer gun, a Devillbiss FL3. Barry K and I have had a lot of conversations in regard to his products and 'caused' me to buy the Iwata.

The only panel skimmed was the trunk lid - I hope the poly primer will correct the lows in the doors as they are not as bad. The AVATAR is what I am working with - the body is blown completely apart down to the last possible piece but will be jammed, the doors and trunk lid mounted then painted.

Unfortunately, due to the time of year, I am working on an extensive honey-do list as well

Later,
Dave
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Old 07-03-2007, 02:46 PM
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Ruts is in the great down under

There may not be any SPI available down there but a good quality epoxy primer is the answer to rust..I put it on as soon as I am done with rust removal..The I do my metal work and such..saves a lot over having to do a do over of rust removal..the guys on TV have a whole crew and they are working pretty fast so they do not have the rust issues that the rest of us have..

Sam
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:19 PM
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Thanking everyone

Guys, thanks for the helpful information.
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Old 07-04-2007, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
There may not be any SPI available down there but a good quality epoxy primer is the answer to rust..I put it on as soon as I am done with rust removal..The I do my metal work and such..saves a lot over having to do a do over of rust removal..the guys on TV have a whole crew and they are working pretty fast so they do not have the rust issues that the rest of us have..

Sam
Sam,
Baker PBE sells it out of Georgia and the UPS shipping price is good. Their website is good - give Terry Baker a call if you are interested in SPI - http://www.bakerpbe.com/

Dave
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Old 07-04-2007, 06:44 AM
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Dave
Shipping to Australia may be a tad bit expensive, specially for HAZMAT.

Aaron
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Old 07-04-2007, 07:15 AM
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Dave
Shipping to Australia may be a tad bit expensive, specially for HAZMAT.

Aaron
Aaron,
It's "only" money and you can't take it with you - and even with shipping it might still be cheaper then something that isn't going to hold up.

Dave
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