[willowbilly3]

I am running a stock 63 Ford 260 in my rpu and getting close to wiring. I am wondering what resistor to use since I won't have the original resistor wire. It has been so long I forgot most of what I might have known about resistor values and application. thanks

[Cape Cod Bob]

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/R...+50028+2028016

[oldred]

That link to the resistor wire is the way to go since the wire is not only more reliable than a ceramic resistor but you will not have to deal with the heat from the ceramic type. Don't forget the by-pass wire from the solenoid to the coil or you will have a starting problem. Also if you use the wire don't cut, splice or shorten it because the resistance value of it will be changed if you do.

[cobalt327]

P/N 150250 - ACCEL Ballast Resistor, costs around $12-$14. This assumes you're using a stock spec coil.

[willowbilly3]

Thanks. Olred, a little more info on the wire. Short of scrounging one from an old Ford, where do I get one?

Also I'll check on the Accel one, see if I can get it locally.

[oldred]

Originally Posted by willowbilly3

info on the wire. Short of scrounging one from an old Ford, where do I get one?

I think that link that Bob posted is from NAPA so any Napa store could get it also the wire from most any Ford that uses one, such as early Mustangs, would also work. Actually these wires should not be at all hard to find.

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

If I remember correctly, those resistors and R-wires are
about 1.2 - 1.5 ohms, depending on the temperature.

[oldred]

Originally Posted by Runnin'OnEmpty

If I remember correctly, those resistors and R-wires are
about 1.2 - 1.5 ohms, depending on the temperature.

1.3 ohms +/- is the standard resistance value whether it is a resistor wire or a ceramic type so you are right. The trick is don't mistakenly use both! This happens sometimes when someone uses a coil that requires an external resistor and they just add one without checking to see if the resistance is already being supplied by the ignition wire. Also a coil with an internal resistor should not be used if the resistance is already in the ignition wire, an internal resistor coil uses only one ignition wire that has no resistance to cover both the start and run circuits. It does the job of both the resistor and by-pass circuits by having a variable internal resistance that changes values as voltage is applied. When voltage is first applied to the positive terminal on an internal resistance coil little resistance is encountered so it will deliver a full spark on the starter induced lower voltage during start-up. Then when the key is released and the voltage rises to the full 12+ volts the resistance value of the internal resistor starts to change and causes the voltage to the coil windings to drop back down to approximately the same as when the stater motor was engaged. The points, or ignition module on an older solid state ignition, will see excessively high voltage for a short time but this does not usually cause a problem.

The bottom line is to make sure the resistance used is the only such device in the circuit and that a start-up by-pass circuit is also used with a standard external resistor coil!

[Footstomper]

Yesterday, I got the gauges working. (July 4, 2011). I wanted to talk to you for the mechanical temp for alert to tell when it gets hot, I lost how to fix or lost the install, it has the black wire and the red. I tried but the lights stays on.

I shorted for whatever to solder to cut the wire to get to the gauge. When I got on the road, the battery gauge quit.
That link to the resistor wire is the way to go since the wire is not only more reliable than a ceramic resistor but you will not have to deal with the heat from the ceramic type. Don't forget the by-pass wire from the solenoid to the coil or you will have a starting problem. Also if you use the wire don't cut, splice or shorten it because the resistance value of it will be changed if you do.
Where can you get a new resistance the right length of wire? I have a 1940 coupe with a 76 cadillac with HEI coil. The solenoid gets hot and slowly rotating.
The rear 9" 2:73, people want to look at the car. They bunch all over, so I got up 130 and I got home. My speed cable broke off. I may have tighted too much or lube needed. 2nd speed kicks about 85, It is smooth but I would never to try.

I am learning every day to figure about the electricals.

Footstomper

[Bryan59EC]

Footstomper,
HEI does not use a resistance wire or ballast resistor.
It wants a full 12-14 volts to operate. Adding resistance to this will only hinder the operation of the ignition system.

As for the solenoid getting hot.
Check all of your battery connections
Battery to starter solenoid.
connection from the solenoid to the starter--------usually a buss connection at the starter.
Check ground connections from the battery to engine and battery to the frame and frame to the body----these all must be good solid connections.

do not overlook the the connection from the ignition switch to the "S" terminal on the solenoid---must have a good connection there as well.

If all of that is okay---might try replacing the solenoid if it is getting too hot.
Could be that your starter is about to give up as well.

[Bryan59EC]

Originally Posted by willowbilly3

I am running a stock 63 Ford 260 in my rpu and getting close to wiring.

Okay----what the hell is an RPU????

I'm blonde and Polish---so this goes right over my head

[timothale]

R oadster P ick U p, You should not fold the resistor wire over or double it in the harness or it could cause excessive heat-hot spots and deteriate the insulation , wire has different operating temperature ranges. when doing the wiring and y wiring close to the engine-exhaust should be the higher automotive grade.

[oldred]

Originally Posted by timothale

R oadster P ick U p, You should not fold the resistor wire over or double it in the harness or it could cause excessive heat-hot spots and deteriate the insulation , wire has different operating temperature ranges. when doing the wiring and y wiring close to the engine-exhaust should be the higher automotive grade.

That too is important for protecting the resistor wire but like Bryan59EC said if he is using an HEI ignition he will not want to use the resistor circuit anyway.

[timothale]

stock 63 has points and needs the resistor, If he still has it stock,

[oldred]

Apparently we were talking about two different posts, the last resistor wire question was from "Footstomper" and he said he was using a 76 Caddy HEI. That's the post I was referring to and I guess I should have been a bit more clear about which post I was replying to, your info about the resistor wire is of course 100% right.