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You should be more concerned about the pistons. They should be forged if possible. Another concern is the ignition timing. This should 'retard' close to 10 degrees when you push the button. This percentage varies, depending on the application your are using it in, and what for. Forget 'cast' rings. I would use Plasma/Molly rings. You will also need to "file" fit any ring set. The top and second ring will need to opened up between .002-.003 per inch of bore diameter, from the manufactures spec's. Is there any other information you can give, to help narrow this down a bit? |
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I think it's more important to buy quality forged pistons, then to wonder about the rings. If your only using the N2O occationally then go with a quality ring package that the piston maker suggest. On engines that run more N2O, the end gap must be opened up, the ring maker usually has a chart to go buy. Just remember, quality parts always net quality results.
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pistons
Yea I agree forged would be better but coated hyper's will work just fine as long ase the system is set up right.
The base plan is to run a wet system with a seperate feul cell with 110 octane in it and 93 in the regualar tank, No piggy backing!!!! running 32-34* locked then prolly 24-26* on the juice. I have a local guy that does nothing but tune carbs and NOS systems on chassis and engine dyno's. He's gonna chassis dyno it and set/tune everything for my set up for $350. He has done hundreds of cars with hyper pistons spraying 250 out of the hole and 250 down the track, And he hasn't had any come back yet. As long as I don't get any detonation or create lean condition and retard the advance porperly it'll be fine for no more than I'm spraying..... heck I've watched some of the cars hes done at the local 1/8 mile track spray 200 with cast pistons so I'm pretty sure he knows his stuff.... I wouldn't believe it either till i seen it with my own eyes!! |
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