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Old 12-21-2009, 08:02 PM
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What size maxi-fuse?

What size maxi-fuse do I need to put in between my starter relay and the main power coming out of the fuse panel? Thanks...

Mike

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Old 12-21-2009, 08:39 PM
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how many amps does your starter draw when the engine is cold?
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:12 PM
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The starter has it's own power cable directly from the battery. I'm talking about the main fuse that feeds the other circuits. I've seen so many diagrams showing this fuse but I haven't seen an amperage rating.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:42 PM
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50 amp Maxi Fuse will do it.

Vince
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:20 PM
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I agree with the 50amps, when you say maxi fuse, I hope your refering to a type 1 auto resetting circuit breaker and not a fuse.
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:37 PM
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I was looking at the Painless Performance website and it appears that they're using heavy duty fuses in some of their harnesses instead of circuit breakers
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:08 AM
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The Maxi Fuse is not a circuit breaker, it is actually a super sized fuse that looks like a stantard fuse on steroids. A circuit breaker is not needed or desired to feed power to the fuse panel.

Vince
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:24 AM
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you don't want to fuse that wire
you want to use a fusible link on your main panel feed
check out mad electric for fusible link info
i don't think you can order stuff from the site anymore
but it's a great resource site

you must not leave that wire unprotected
if you short that wire, you will have a fire
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Old 12-22-2009, 11:15 AM
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a typical/normal #10 size wire main feed to the fuse box is rated to handle 40-50amps normal service so a 50amp fuse is correct...
the maxi fuse mounted at the solo protects that wire from the solo to the fuse box...

you need to add up the total amps of all the fuses for "if" all the devices connected to the fuse box are turned on at the same time to verify the main power feed wire size and fuse amps rating are adaquate...

pretty common to need a second #10 main feed wire and second fuse panel to take care of everything or use relays for less load on the supply wire
(a six fuse littlefuse blade style fuse panel is around $10 at your local store)
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Old 12-22-2009, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
The Maxi Fuse is not a circuit breaker, it is actually a super sized fuse that looks like a stantard fuse on steroids. A circuit breaker is not needed or desired to feed power to the fuse panel.

Vince
That may be the case for your application, however I use a type 1 breaker to feed my panel to protect devices such as headlamps,which cannot quit operating immediately. Type 1 allows lights to flash on-off-on-off alerting to a problem yet,providing lights to guide me to a safe stop. different strokes for different folks.
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Old 12-22-2009, 02:27 PM
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An additional benefit of the Maxi Fuse is when I'm away at a show staying overnight with my car parked in a hotel parking lot I can pull the Maxi Fuse and my car is dead. My Maxi Fuse is located in a place that is not too obvious for a thief looking for a quick score, and how many car thief's carry around a 50 amp Maxi Fuse? Circuit breaker's have their place, IMHO the main feed to your fuse panel is not one of them, and a fusible link would have to be massive to handle the amperage required of the main fuse panel supply wire. The fusible link will also leave you stranded if you had one on the main feed and it blows. As red65 said if you have extra heavy feeds like HID or halogen lamps they need to be on separate circuits with relays that are fused independent of the main fuse panel power.

Vince
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Old 12-22-2009, 02:58 PM
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what is interesting to me, is the fact that the auto and trucking industry do this differently. Because my field is in the trucking side of things, I wired my car like a Peterbilt, where a large main breaker off the batteries powers a keyed ACC circuit relay, that then powers the fuse panel with its own circuit relays breakers and fuses. Could be that the auto industry ops for the cheap way out where trucking goes for the million mile club. Now I need to work at getting a million miles on my Hot Rod.
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:42 PM
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I used the Painless product in my street rod. They supplied a 50 amp maxi fuse and a fuse holder with the harness. I also put a fusible link on the wire from the main junction block to that fuse (overkill I suppose) just in case there is a short between the main junction and the maxi fuse.

In a Painless circuit you can also remove the coil fuse on the fuse block and the car will not start. If your fuse block is somewhat hidden this may be an alternative to removing the maxi fuse if that maxi fuse is hard to get to (mine is actually located under the car). I've put in a battery master switch as well which when off makes the entire car electrically dead.
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:36 AM
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sixguns,
this article does explain "how and why" for fusing circuits pretty darn well....

http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm

yup, type one 20amps? auto reset- bladed-plug in breaker ($5?) on the #12? size wire headlamps circuit in the fuse panel is a good plan....
(many headlamps switches have a thermal breaker built in because it is a vulnerable/short prone curcuit batt direct))

but a 50amp type one at the solo won't react to a short in the headlights #12 wire curcuit till 60+amps in the #12 wire which will fry everything in the harness...

it's all about protecting the "individual" wires from destroying all the other wires in the bundle....

50amp type 1 at the solo and 20amp type one in the panel sounds kosher...

the plus for a maxi fuse is it is no question where the catastropic fault occured,,, fuse element is huge and long...

Last edited by red65mustang; 12-23-2009 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:46 AM
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The only real way to know for sure is to turn everything on and see what the draw is with an amp meter and go 10% over that. It is more important to be sure the feed wire to the fuse box is rated higher than that fuse or if thee is a problem you will burn the car before blowing the fuse.
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