What size slicks to run? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2009, 11:22 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 54
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
What size slicks to run?

Hey Guys,

I have a 67 Camaro that has not been lightened in any way running a 396, that is pushing just over 700hp at the crank. I'm guessing the car would weigh around 3600 Lbs, but please correct me if I'm way off, as this is only a guess.

I happened to come across a set of brand new (still have the stickers and rubber nubs) M/T ET Street 28x11.5 - 15LT Slicks with tubes REALLY cheep.

Are these big enough to run, or am I going to spin the rim inside the tire and tear off the valve stem? Do I need a special rim (like a bead lock the off road guys use) or can I use any cheapo rim that I find that is the right size?

Thanks,

James

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2009, 02:32 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kemah TX
Posts: 425
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
An ET Street is measured different than a real slick they are measured at the bulge or section width of the tire. They will work on your car fine I would screw them to the rims but that is me. If you do drill your rims make sure they are all timed the same on either side of the rim do not get them staggered. It causes the tire to wrap the sidewall in different spots inside and out.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2009, 09:18 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,250
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 26
Thanked 426 Times in 390 Posts
The tire you listed crosses over size-wise on the MT tire chart to the 275-60/15 Drag Radial, and should fit easily under your Camaro using the correct rim offset. You need a 15 x 8 rim with a 4.5-5" backspace. The 28x11.5 ET Street has actual dimensions of 10.9" across the side wall and 8.6" tread surface when mounted on a 8" rim, and 8" is the recommended rim width. This is from the MT site.

Most racers I know run these tubeless to save weight, eliminate tube related problems and don't want the added sidewall stiffness that comes with running tubes. They are easy to run tubeless, just buy a bottle of dishwashing liquid soap like Palmolive or Dawn and a 1 1/2-2" paintbrush. Paint the entire inside of the tire with undiluted dish soap and let it dry. This seals up the pores of the rubber and allows you to run tubeless.

If the tire bead "walks" a little at launch, now there is no tube to get hurt, but if the tire moving bothers you you can screw them or bead lock them, or many glue the bead at installation using Permatex High-Tack. Until you can 60 foot in the low 1.4 second range or run 9's or better in the quarter, I wouldn't be worried about the tire moving.

Let us know how it runs at the strip, we are interested in the "700hp" 396 and how fast it is.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2009, 10:20 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72

Let us know how it runs at the strip, we are interested in the "700hp" 396 and how fast it is.
For sure

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 01:43 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Santa Fe NM/Torrance CA
Posts: 62
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If you are putting that kind of hp out you should be looking at some of the slicks that super stockers use. Are you relly sure that you are putting that kind of HP out? To make that kind of HP you would have spent a great deal of money out. The last SS motor I bought was used and ran me over 25K
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:51 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 54
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yes, I'm sure, it was dynoed at 723. Built by a friend of mine who is a motor genius (actually holds a couple of patients that the big 3 were trying to buy before this whole economy thing hit). He has forgotten more about building hp than I will ever know. He seems to think the car should be good for 9.9, but I'm not willing to push it that hard (power shifting and such) as I like to drive it not break it, and only race on a whim, and thus far only on street tires with very little traction! If I can get sub 12's I would be happy, and with slicks that shouldn't be too hard.

There is over 70k into the car (not including any labor, or cost of original purchase). Not sure how much of that is motor (afraid to look that close!) but I would bet at around the 30 to 35 mark.

Thanks for the tire tips, I was unsure that they would be big enough (wide) for that kind of HP, and figured I may just tear them off.

Thanks again,

James
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 02:39 PM
454 Rattler's Avatar
NEVER SATISFIED !!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Eagle River WI.
Age: 70
Posts: 884
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 34 Times in 33 Posts
Could you show us the dyno sheet and tell us more about the engine and car ??

454 RATTLER
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 02:54 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Santa Fe NM/Torrance CA
Posts: 62
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
with over 700HP and 3600 pounds you should be a lot faster than high 9's unless you can't get any of the HP to the ground. My H/SA duster weighs about the same weight with me in it and I run 11.60's in it and I am not even the fastest in my class or combo. Whats the suspension setup, transmission, and converter?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 06:01 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 54
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sorry 454, I don't have it, the guy who built the engine does (I think). My concern is that it is drivable and reliable (which it is), and don't really care about the numbers game. And I'm defiantly not sure of all the details, and can't comment on how he is getting these numbers. More than one person on here and other places has commented that with the build sheet I posted a year or so ago it can't make those numbers, but it does, I was there for the dyno which was done at a reputable shop. I can't tell you how he does it, but it seems to be all about the tuning. He has done a number of things that "experts" say he can't and gets wicked numbers. For example he built a carb for my brothers slightly modified (very slightly) mustang 5.0, it was a 750 double pumper. Both editors for Muscle mustang and 5.0 mag, said it couldn't be done with the mods that were done to the car, it wouldn't run. But it did, and made a HUGE power difference.

But basically it's a bored 396 (to 409 I believe) with everything done that can be done. There are no Power adders. dual 750 double pumpers on top of a tunnel ram. Balanced to 8500, but I have the rev limiter set to 7500.

Tranny is a Doug Nash 5 speed standard.

Air suspension in the rear, with caltracks. custom front end set up. 4 wheel disks by wellwood.

Now My question is.....

I'm thinking running tubeless looks like a good idea, but I would like to screw it as well. Can this be done? What type of screws should I use?

Thanks
James
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 08:11 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kemah TX
Posts: 425
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
James, you can buy a wheel screw kit from moroso and yes you can run them screwed without tubes. Every set of slicks I have run have been tubeless and screwed to the wheel. My Mullis dragster has 16 screws per side on a set of Hoosier 16X33x15 soft sidewall tires and they do not leak. You should not have any issues with them.

Hope this helps, Mike
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 09:31 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 54
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bingo, thanks mike....

How do you seal the tires? Using the liquid dish soap method mentioned by ericnova??

Thanks again

James
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2009, 11:14 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Santa Fe NM/Torrance CA
Posts: 62
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Without the dyno sheet, I would say he is pulling your leg or something else on the HP. Making 700HP+ and saying it is streetable is an oxymoron.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2009, 12:20 AM
ChevelleSS_LS6's Avatar
Jeep XJ and a Javelin
 
Last wiki edit: Compression test
Last journal entry: August 9, part III
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Age: 28
Posts: 1,610
Wiki Edits: 7

Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by onefastchevy
Yes, I'm sure, it was dynoed at 723. Built by a friend of mine who is a motor genius (actually holds a couple of patients that the big 3 were trying to buy before this whole economy thing hit). He has forgotten more about building hp than I will ever know.

Thanks again,

James

What were the patents for? Some sort of direct injection? Is it mechanical? Will it help increase power/mpg on musclecars? Is there a link with more info?

Sucks he has forgotten more about building HP than you will ever know though Time does that to people. At least now you know more than him ...or did you mean that he knows more about making lots of power than you will ever know and type it out wrong ?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2009, 06:38 AM
454 Rattler's Avatar
NEVER SATISFIED !!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Eagle River WI.
Age: 70
Posts: 884
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 34 Times in 33 Posts
No dyno sheet.....
No particulars.....
No pictures.....
Hummmmmmmmm !?!?

454 RATTLER
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2009, 09:13 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 54
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
sigh.... it's comments like bugrods that swore me off this site a year ago. I have all sorts of reply's to that to completely shut down everything you said but it's not worth my time.

If you believe me great, if you don't I really don't care, I'm not here to get into a pissing match. The car is real, as is the question. If you have an answer, or something to say that is relevant to the the topic of the thread please post it, if not, live by the rule my father taught me "better to keep your mouth shut and be thought a fool, than open it and remove all doubt."

So again I'll ask,

Mike are you using the soap method to seal the tires? Anyone else out there doing this?

Thanks to those who posted useful info. You input is valuable and very much appreciated.

James
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
what top end como to run to on my 350 looking for 400hp tpisuper10 Engine 8 09-12-2008 09:51 AM
new here what top end to run on my motor lookin for 400hp tpisuper10 Introduce Yourself 1 09-11-2008 03:21 PM
Proper jet & power valve size oneguyssky Engine 0 07-20-2008 03:52 PM
wiring diagram samh Electrical 2 02-07-2006 06:28 PM
Headlight amps and fuse size? JohnTN Electrical 6 07-13-2005 07:43 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.