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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2002, 03:06 PM
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Don; Good point. I got my start in welding with two semesters at the local junior college. Can't beat the price, convenience, and the good instruction.

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Old 10-15-2002, 05:20 AM
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thanks Don for the advice I am taking classes from a friend of mine that is a welding instructor for the pipe fitters. because I do not want to have someone else do the work. I have chopped a few tops back in the day but I used a touch to do it. I think when I start the body work in the spring I should have the knowledge to do it right. Also reading the post on this board gives me more insight in the proper way to weld body panels.
thanks for all the help and knowledge all of you have shared with me
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2002, 09:42 AM
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Our shop has the same set up as Maverick. Think on this. We have started doing bigger panels by using a bonding agent that you can get from NAPA. Clean the metal and spread the adhesive. Use cleco's to hold in place and also tack weld the panel in a few strategic places. This keeps the warpage down to a minimum and finish work is a breeze. We have done panels as large as the rear quarter on a 72 Caprice Ragtop. That's over 8 ft of rear quarter with no worries.
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Old 10-15-2002, 12:00 PM
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Iknow from expirence, being from the humid south they make a special wire that will not get rusty as fast as regular wire. You are not supposed to lube the wire, and after regular wire gets a little rust on it(like mine because it sits mosy of the time) it starts to clog the liner in the handle, and cause the wire not to feed, as far as size goes I use .025 on modern day cars.. I bet that old chevy is thick
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2002, 09:21 PM
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Rust? What is rust? Oh yeah, I forgot , I live in California!
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2002, 01:19 PM
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move up here m'brutha. I'M starting to rust. quoting (what else) sept 2000 HRM:" 110volt (ugh) MIG welder formed a permanent bond. proper wire selection is critical to good results. because thin-guage body sheet metal wont withstand much heat penetration before melting, it is important to load the welder with .o3o non-shielded wire. heavier wire requires more amperage (heat) to initiate the welding process and shielded (flux-type) wire, regardless of gauge, must be run hotter to burn out the impurities contained with the flux." (article did not state if gas was used, and if so, what kind)without knowing that little tid bit of info this aint much help, therefor, ergo and to-wit: i'd use what was posted above.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2003, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Harlequin
Yes, wire feed welders are migs. The hookup for gas is for a 50/50 mixture of CO2 and Argon. If you’re going to use the gas, you’re going to have to get different wire at your local welding shop. Right now since your not using gas your going to be using a wire called Intersheild(aka flux core). The flux creates a slag on the weld that has to be removed. When using the copper wire with gas there is no slag that is left behind, hence, a cleaner weld. Hopes this helps! :p
MIG Stands for Metalic Inert Gas it uses the wire as a consumable electrode and is shielded by argon, co2 or a mix argon/co2 for mild steel.
The other type of wire feed is flux core and or (innershield) it can be used with or without shielding gas depending on the type of flux. This process does leave slag and if the operator is not experienced can get slag entrapment in the weld.
Tig stands for Tungston Inert Gas, it uses a Tungston nonconsumable electrode and is shielded by argon or a mix of argon/helium, it is just a heat souce andyou have to use a filler rod.
Another good way to weld light sheet metal is using an oxt/acetelyne torch. Also a Henrob or Dillon is a good choice. I have one and it has very good heat control but I personally don't care for the design it is heavy and akward to use.
I hope this helps you understand a little better!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2004, 08:59 PM
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I bought a miller 175 mig and love it it works great for body work it took some time to get used to welding on sheetmetal as I had never done it but as every one here has mentioned jump around and take your time as heat will warp your metal pull the trigger and release, practice makes perfect as far as cooling with a rag or air this will shrink the metal anmd may cause warpage as well. when you grind dont stay too long as well as this will also cause warping. good luck
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2004, 09:12 AM
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:36 PM
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If I'm welding a frame, or anything over 3/16 I use 30 or 35, if I'm welding sheet metal I use the lightest wire I can get. For me it seems to make a smaller bead. I use a snapon mig.

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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2004, 07:40 PM
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All wire feeders are NOT mig welders! Flux core gassless feeders are NOT mig. Metal Inert Gas welders require shielding gas, flux core feeders do not and as such are not mig welders.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2004, 05:30 PM
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not to nit-pick,
but tungston is actually spelled tungsten. MIG actually means micro-wire inert gas. Just for the sake of quality control of information. This is not meant to undermine your points, just clarify a couple typo's. great thread though.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2004, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com
hammering on the weld only works with gas weld mild steel, mig wire is harder than the hinges of hell and won't work the same done that thanks bob
I hate to disagree with Bob, because he knows his stuff...but I have to say that you're a little off on this one. I will admit that MIG definitely seems harder than maybe tig or gas...but, it can and should be hammered...if you're doing it right.

There's a thread called "GAS VS MIG" or something like that...where Randy Ferguson shows how he does a fender perfectly using mig.

I understand the process, just haven't mastered it yet.

Basically you should put a bevel on the panels to be joined, so you have a valley between the two. Usually start in the middle and make a few tacks until it completely fills a small area. This is going to shrink the metal. If you unclamped it at this point--you should notice your ends pulling apart (no longer butted together how they should be). If you work the area you just welded with a hammer and dolly, this will crush the weld down...from my experience, if you have an incredibly proud or high tack of filler, you should knock it down with a grinder or sander or whatever before you begin to hammer..but the idea is to crush the weld into that valley.

Keep tacking, it will shrink, hammer it out. With some practice, you can join two panels...even with mig without requiring filler.

Quote:
Originally posted by ratlover
not to nit-pick,
but tungston is actually spelled tungsten. MIG actually means micro-wire inert gas.
could be wrong...often am but MIG actually means metallic or Metal inert gas...
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2004, 07:02 PM
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Definitely Metal Inert GAS, micro-wire is a trade name from years ago,I forget which manufacturer but it really doesn't matter anyway. What I really want to do is point out the Hobart 125 mig welder in the latest Harbor Freight catalog. Seems that quite often someone wants to know what welder to buy on a tight budget,well here it is! Item no. 04270-ocxa $329.99. One of the fellows in my shop bought one and I think that this is probably the best 110 volt machine I have ever tried. This thing even has a built in contactor(wire electrically cold until the trigger is pulled) this feature is rarely seen on low priced 110 machines. It is definitely a quality built rig that has a lot of extras and is priced right.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2004, 07:05 PM
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you could be right,
the correct technical terminology is actually GMAW which stands for gas metal arc welding. GTAW is gas tungsten arc welding,FCAW is flux core arc welding, and rod is refered to as SMAW which is shielded metal arc welding. I stand corrected, my humble apologies.
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