[Derkyb]

I have a 70 chevelle with a 496ci 292 comp cam 510hp/586lbtq planning on using a low 1st gear th400 with a 3:73 rear. Comp recommends 3000 stall with this cam in a 454 but since I have 496 should'nt i go with a 2400-2700 stall or would this be too small? Car will be street/strip, any other combo recommendations?

[pmeisel]

I'm jealous.

If you are going primarily strip with a little street, I'd go with the Comp recommendation. If you are more street with a little strip, I'd back off a little as you mention, it'll be a little easier on tranny heat. Hope you have a good tranny cooler. Wish I lived close enough to ask for a ride.

[brainsboy]

Make sure you shop around for a torque converter. There are alot of company's making them now, and a few offer a 60day trail period, if for any reason you dont like the stall they will change it for free. Personally I dont like buying from TCI or B&M because it seems as there torque converters are made for a wide range of applications and never seem to be just right for you.


Ben

[Derkyb]

WOW brains, Never heard of trial use on a torque converter. I will definitely check that out. Your right about TCI and B&M, but for the price I dont think I'LL find better. Right now looking towards the 2400 nitrous holeshot.

[astroracer]

I have to recommend talking to the convertor manufacturer b4 you buy. You need to consider the torque output of your motor. This will have a huge factor in determining WHERE your converter stalls at. A 2400 stall may "look" like a 3000 stall to your motor as the torque will overide the "advertised" stall RPM. You may end up with an 1800 stall just to get it to work with your combo...
If your HP & Torque numbers are correct take those to your manufacturer of choice and get some educated input.
Mark

[ocbaud]

Originally Posted by astroracer

I have to recommend talking to the convertor manufacturer b4 you buy. You need to consider the torque output of your motor. This will have a huge factor in determining WHERE your converter stalls at. A 2400 stall may "look" like a 3000 stall to your motor as the torque will overide the "advertised" stall RPM. You may end up with an 1800 stall just to get it to work with your combo...
If your HP & Torque numbers are correct take those to your manufacturer of choice and get some educated input.
Mark

yeap. my stall is rated at 2500rpms at 350hp, but it flashes to 2900 with my engine

[Derkyb]

Thanks guys, Called TCI they recommended the streetfighter but I dont thnk it has the antiballoning plates and i forgot to ask does anyone know? Also I'm still having trouble understanding how more torque makes the stall go up, can someone break it down for the layman Thanks.

[pmeisel]

A torque converter is a fluid coupling. The impeller acts like a fan blowing fluid at the turbine, which catches it and spins the engine. The stator is mounted on a one-way clutch and helps redirect the flow during acceleration, and becomes essentially neutral at cruise.

The curving of the vanes in each of these devices affects torque multiplication and stall speed. But -- the same converter with a stall speed rated at "xxxx" rpm will stall at little higher with a bigger engine and a little lower with a less powerful engine. Its a relative guide, not an exact number.

High stall speeds mean low efficiency for cruising at lower rpms. So, if "street/strip" means 3 or 4 weekends at the strip a year and a lot of cruising, a 3000 rpm stall may not make you very happy. But if "street/strip" means, "I mostly drag this car, but I might drive it to the track or to the Dairy Queen on cruise night", then the poor cruising efficiency may not mean anything.

Either way higher stall = more heat, a good cooler is important.

[67 Deuce 4 Me]

Originally Posted by pmeisel

A torque converter is a fluid coupling. The impeller acts like a fan blowing fluid at the turbine, which catches it and spins the engine. The stator is mounted on a one-way clutch and helps redirect the flow during acceleration, and becomes essentially neutral at cruise.

The curving of the vanes in each of these devices affects torque multiplication and stall speed. But -- the same converter with a stall speed rated at "xxxx" rpm will stall at little higher with a bigger engine and a little lower with a less powerful engine. Its a relative guide, not an exact number.

High stall speeds mean low efficiency for cruising at lower rpms. So, if "street/strip" means 3 or 4 weekends at the strip a year and a lot of cruising, a 3000 rpm stall may not make you very happy. But if "street/strip" means, "I mostly drag this car, but I might drive it to the track or to the Dairy Queen on cruise night", then the poor cruising efficiency may not mean anything.

Either way higher stall = more heat, a good cooler is important.

You are right on the money on this post. I was wanting a 2500 stall for my 388 stroker. I told the guy at the parts place what I wanted and what I was using it for. He recommended 1800 to 2200 converter and gave basically the same explanation you did I was hoping it wasn't BS. I am very happy! My combo makes loads of power just off idle, so why waste it! The guy saved me a 100.00 on the converter and probably alot of gas $$$ too!

[Max Keith]

What is the estimated power band of your engine? If this is to be a street engine and you are just wanting a little more torque off the line, I would go with a converter that stalls at the bottom of your engines power band.
Dont forget, that what is a 2000 RPM stall with a 350, isnt the same as a 2000 RPM stall with your 496. The torque output of your engine will govern the stall speed. I would try stalling the engine with your stock converter and see what RPM that is.
A classic example is a car I once had. The stall RPM with the stock engine was 1700 RPM, after putting a larger cam, 4 bbl., headers and better ignition on it, the stall jumped to 2100 RPM. As it was, I didnt need to go with a higher stall. The stock one worked just fine.
Dittos what 67duece says.