06-22-2010, 10:20 AM
Originally Posted by BarryK
My favorite subject!
No simple answer but it starts with bare metal, not a sanded substrate.
Proper treatment of the metal I would say is the number one way to cut the chip potential.
Next is proper coats of epoxy with extreme flash times.
2K primer, if you want to use a talc filed primer because its cheap, skip the first suggestion and don't worry about chips.
Use a good primer and here again, you are not going to do this like a shop that does insurance work all day long, you are going to do extreme flash times.
Sealer, if chips are a real concern the only sealer you will use will be an epoxy, 2K urethane sealers are for production work.
Clear, hard for people to understand but three coats of an acrylic urethane, you are starting to go back-wards as far as depth and stone chip resistance.
Production clears are not the most durable clears.
The harder the clear the worse the chips will be, take a history lesson with the old 7600, then hc7600 and now, may be discontinued altogether, not sure but that is what I was told.
EVERY paint company has their one polyurethane allover clear, usually the most expensive, for custom work and durability.
Two examples, PPG 2002 best clear they have and a great clear.
Dupont use to have their 7800 glamor clear, that was a great clear but been changed twice now and don't know todays number.
Here again extreme flash times are the key words and car should not be waxed.
If you think you can skimp out on the prep and use a great clear, you will gain a little, but best to just hold your breath.
Forgot one of the most important things.
Use a good base and most important ACTIVATE it.
Barry, by no means am i trying to call you out here as i am a spi user and love the products. The proper treatment of the metel you refer to is just sanded with 80grit and use a high grade waterbourne W&G remover then epoxy? When you speak on the 2k surfacer being talc filled, dont all surfacers have talc? do your 2K primers have it? Normally i epoxy, mud work, epoxy then surfacer, do i still have the same durability as i would if i just used epoxy? Now sealers....Normally i use epoxy, but say if i were to two-tone a new car using the stock color as one of the colors. would i just wet sand the whole car, run my line, then base right over the wet sanded clear or should a sealer be used? i would think using a epoxy sealer, would just help intensify the tape line you will have. Thank you.