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solowookie 11-09-2002 06:57 PM

what suspension to run...
I'm going to be running a TCI cross member up front, and I'm wondering what suspension I should run out rear.

1950 chevy pickup. I want it to corner & handle on the road as well as possible (without breaking the bank). I will also be running powertrax, and want to be able to hook up fairly well.

what suspension should I be looking at? I was considering 4-link with an A-arm?

SJFast 11-09-2002 07:03 PM

Jaguar IRS ! :)

solowookie 11-09-2002 09:10 PM

and what kind of cost is involved in a Jaguar IRS. how hard is it to fab up?

SJFast 11-10-2002 02:59 AM

I bought mine on eBay for $250.00 and I've seen them go for MUCH less. Installing it under a pickup would be simple. Except for the ones with knock-off wheels they use the 4 3/4" Chevy bolt pattern and there are no metric parts anywhere. Watch out for the gear ratio. Mine's a 2.88 as are a lot of them. You probably wouldn't like that ratio unless you want a highway cruiser. Most of the ones I've seen are about 61" over the wheel mounting flanges....check the width of your original rearend to see how much difference there is. You said you wanted handling. This setup will give you that....I don't recommend it for straight-line drag racing with a big motor and tires with a lot of bite.

See the "Jag rear ends" post below. ;)

[ November 10, 2002: Message edited by: SJFast ]</p>

Centerline 11-10-2002 05:24 AM

Ford 9" or Chevy 12 bolt on leaf springs with traction bars will hook up just as well and cost about a quarter of what the Jag will. Not only that but you'll be able to get parts anywhere.

The Jag is more suted to a show car where the rear is very visable because they're cool looking. The Jag will handle somewhat better than a solid axle but in my opinion not enough to justify the cost, unless you're going road racing.

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[ November 10, 2002: Message edited by: Centerline ]</p>

solowookie 11-10-2002 08:19 AM

thanks centerline... actually - the fact that the parts are hard to find, and the right gear ratio's would kill that as an option anywhere. doesn't seem wise to put it together in a way that would be hard to get parts. thought it was a type of suspension, and not an actual jag rear-end / setup. don't really want a jag rear under my rig.

reason I was considering the 4-link / a-arm is I could do it for under a grand. obviously springs would be a lot cheaper because all I'd have to do is find a donor vehicle.

how about the quality of ride betweent the 4 link vs. a-arm vs. springs? (would choose cheaper option unless there's a major difference)

deuce_454 11-10-2002 11:21 AM

the ring gear in the jag is a dana 44, and national drivetrain has a ton of center sections in 3,52 and 4,09 for 50$ a piece!! and i dont know where you will find a 12 bolt at that price... if you do be sure to let me know where and just for the record the jag handles way way better than the solid axle..

solowookie 11-10-2002 12:28 PM

what about bolt patterns & rear disk conversions? if it's a dana 44 then I'm assuming it should be pretty straight forward.

would like to go 5-lug in case I may decide to tow with this etc.

Centerline 11-10-2002 01:19 PM

My fault on the previous post I said 12 bolt and actually meant 10 bolt. Big difference in the cost of those two.

I used Dodge Caravan rear springs on my 53. Cost me $40 at a wrecking yard. They are simple bolt on units and only require you to make one bracket and weld it to the outside of the frame rail. Combine this with a mid 70's Camaro/Firebird 10 bolt Posi and everything more or less just bolts together. You can run conventional traction bars or do what I did and design your own "Cal Track" type units. (Cal Track traction devices are used on a lot of pro street race cars. <a href="" target="_blank"></a>)

I chose a rear with drum brakes but they are available with disks and the mid 70's years are within an inch of being the correct width.

A four link is really not necessary for the street, unless you're producing mega hp. Its totally adjustable and was really designed for racing. I run a ladder bar system on my pro-street car (street rod not race car) which is similar to a four bar and the thing rides like a race car/truck. The four bar is a bit smoother but really is more than you need for a daily driver. If you're going to be doing any real racing though I'd use one.

The Jag suspension has disks and although the chunk is easily repaired the rest of the components aren't cheap to fix. Yes it's really beautiful but if I was going to go that far I'd use a Vette rear. At least you know that will handle just about whatever amount of hp you throw at it. Just my personal preference. The Jag will work. I just don't like the idea of using foreign car parts on a street rod. That being said my pro-street car has Toyota seats and my 53 pickup has a Mazda wiper motor.

If you want to see how I did my rearend then just go to my site and check out the 53 Chevy pickup pics.

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[ November 10, 2002: Message edited by: Centerline ]</p>

SJFast 11-10-2002 01:52 PM

If you go with the Jag there's nothing else to buy. It comes assembled in a crossmember with coil-over shocks, inboard disc brakes, and mechanical emergency brakes. You mount that crossmember to your rear frame and enjoy !

solowookie 11-10-2002 02:22 PM

well - as much as performance or anything else, the ride is as important as anything to me. you mentioned that combination rides like a truck, and I don't want it to ride like a truck. if that's the case I need to explore some other options. look at total costs (also maintenance costs).

anybody have any sources where I can look at the IRS suspension? (installation, components that come with it etc.) somebody had mentioned regearing is only $50, and if it has disk breaks that would be a bonus.

TCI has a rear 4-link kit too (that I just noticed today on their website that is made for this app too). I'm sure there are better options, but for a novice it wouldn't be terrible to use it. it comes with instructions etc. that would almost make it a bolt in, and would require no frame mods. this wouldn't be a cheap option though.

don't know if I'm more decided now, or less decided.

Centerline 11-10-2002 03:27 PM

Unless you're going to race the truck I would stick with the Jag or conventional leaf springs. There are new leaf springs available for your truck that require no frame mods. They simply bolt in. You would have to modify the spring saddles on whatever rearend you chose to use but that isn't a big deal.

I haven't looked at the 4 link you mentioned but I can almost guarantee that some frame mods will be required. I always caution a novice to keep it simple on their first rod project. So if I was you I'd go with leaf springs, but good luck whichever way you go.

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solowookie 11-10-2002 05:31 PM

if your curious to look at the kit <a href="" target="_blank">here's the link...</a> TCI is usually pretty good about their products, and instructions from other peoples recommendations.

I think you are correct about keeping it simple. I don't have any idea which way I need to go. I need to keep things simple, but at the same time I don't want to pour a bundle of $$$ into the project, and not be happy with the way it rides.

I'm much more concerned with the overall ride then anything else. if I can get a decent ride from the springs, then I will probably go springs.

so - how is your ride with the springs on rear? with an IFS crossmember up front am I going to be decent?

WoodsEdge 11-10-2002 06:20 PM

Run leaf springs with a heavy sway bar. Easy to install, cheap, and a good ride.

solowookie 11-10-2002 07:36 PM

well - that's 2 votes for leaf springs... heavy sway bar makes sense as well as the traction bars.

actually I had seen centerline's traction bar setup before (when Phat was giving him crap about how bad his welding looked :eek :) I'd kept the link to his page in case I decided to do a solid axle.

guess I begin looking for a donor vehicle for this.

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