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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2005, 09:47 AM
Frmly sc*ot.
 
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Use a cheesegrater on the filler.

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Old 04-29-2005, 04:51 PM
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Just to clarify,
FILLER=Rage,DynaGlass,Bondo,Tiger Hair,ect.
NOT spot putty or glaze as some call it= Metal Glaze,Easy Sand,Dolphin,ect.
Point I was making is that you don't use the grater on your finish putty. It should never be that thick as some will get the wrong idea and run it over their skim coat of finishing putty.
We use them for the main filler to conture and level it as it's usually spread on thick and alot more is applied and "worked" down to proper levels.

Last edited by Bee4Me; 04-30-2005 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 04-29-2005, 07:40 PM
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“Basics of bondo types”

"Regular" polyester body filler, and polyester "putty" is basically the same thing. They are both, you guessed it "Polyester" based. Polyester is what fiberglass is made of. The fillers have talc and some other components that give it "body", that is the basic difference between fiberglass resin and polyester body fillers.
The Putties have a finer ground talc than "regular" filler. They cost MUCH more, but are well worth it for skim coats and minor repairs. Being they are polyester they use a hardener and CURE like fiberglass.
The old "spot putties" DO NOT use a hardener and are simply lacquer primer . They are JUNK and should not be used.

Some examples of these products are as follows.

“Reinforced” polyester fillers:
These can be aluminum filled body filler for metal surfaces. I is very hard to sand and not good for the finish work (needs a skim coat of a “reg” filler or polyester putty) but will fill much more per coat reg filler and has more corrosion resistance.
A Fiberglass reinforced filler is similar.

Examples are:
Evercoat’s “Metal-2-Metal”, “Everglass”, “Kitty Hair”, “Tiger Hair”
3M’s 05815 Short stand filler, 05813 Long strand filler.


"Regular" polyester body fillers:
Evercoats RAGE or "Lite weight" and others.
3M's Lightweight body filler #058001

Polyester putties:
Evercoat's "Polyester glazing putty", "Easy sand" and others.
3M's "Flowable finishing putty"#05824 or "Piranha"#05821 .

"Spot putty" (junk, not recommended) Usually found in a toothpaste tube looking container.
Evercoat's "Ever-glaze" #403
3M's "Acryl-green" red or blue #05960,05964,05966
Dupont’s 2286S, PPG’s DFL17

I personally recommend Evercoat products.

Brian
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Old 04-29-2005, 07:45 PM
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That was a very good post Brian. Lots of info..

BK
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Old 04-30-2005, 02:13 PM
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Would someone please enlighten me.

Why would you apply a skim coat as opposed to spraying a few coats of polyester primer?

I've just been using Evercoat Slick Sand. If you need to get it on fairly thick, you only have to wait a little while before putting on another coat. I didn't have any trouble with it sagging on vertical panels.

Seems like it would be a lot less work to finish the panel afterwards.

Roger
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Old 04-30-2005, 04:39 PM
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Very good queston Roger, polyester primer would be a fine alternative to a skim coat. In fact, it would be far better in many cases, especially on a large panel.

Brian
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Old 04-30-2005, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Very good queston Roger, polyester primer would be a fine alternative to a skim coat. In fact, it would be far better in many cases, especially on a large panel.

Brian
I agree totally. Skim coats are, as this thread points out, difficult to master and actually unnecessary.
However, if your body work is done properly, your surface will be very uniform with a few sanding scratches, pin-holes, and tiny divots that need filling. A couple heavy coats of polyester hi-fill primer with a guide coat and block sanded will do the same service as a skim coat but is MUCH easier to work with.
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Old 04-30-2005, 05:25 PM
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I asked the same question basically awhile back reguarding these "hot rod TV shows" that spread like Rage Gold over the entire body and sand 90% off to dead level it. I was like, "Why not just spray a polyester primer like Slick or Feather Fill and block it down????
They spend like a half or full day smearing filler over the entire car and why not just spray it on???
The imperfections aren't that bad like to need a 1/4" thick layer,Just imperfections that need leveled out.
When I did the Chevelle,which was really bad, I used Metal Glaze to fill the bad areas and sprayed the entire car with Feather Fill II and blocked it out straight and smooth. Recoated cut thru's and shot paint right over it.
It was the easiest block out I've ever done and required less finishing putty work which would have gone on forever to get all the body straight for primer & paint.

Last edited by Bee4Me; 04-30-2005 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 04-30-2005, 05:29 PM
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Do all polyester primers require a hardener mix? And what would the cost difference be (percentage wise) vs. the scrape on glaze for a typical job.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2005, 05:35 PM
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ANY of the GOOD filler primers and polyester putty's require hardner.
The poly primers like feather Fill use a liquid and the putty's use the blue paste.
If it DOSEN'T use a hardner, I WON'T use IT. The "toothpaste" tube stuff that does not use a hardner will bit you in the rear, It's just a matter WHEN.
AND,
It will be when you least expect it and cause you a world of trouble.
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Old 04-30-2005, 09:12 PM
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Bee4me, did you notice that the "hotrod" shows ALSO spray a poly primer after they spread the filler?
I caught it on the Budlight car that they bondo'ed, poly primed, sealed then paint
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Old 05-01-2005, 07:23 AM
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Polyester primers all cure like fiberglass laminating resin, they don't 'dry'. They take the same methylethylketone peroxide hardener and there is zero shrinkage - nearly 100% solids. They serve exactly the same purpose an the legendary PPG K36 hi-build primer, work as easily, stick as well but cost a fraction of what the name brand stuff does.
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:19 AM
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I thought with that one they were just using a regular primer or epoxy,I didn't realize it was a poly build type.Guess that professional metal work was real quality craftsmanship. But when you got boss's like those riding your ... quality goes out the door (along with your positive attitude).
Willys,Your scaring my with those long words again.
Is that one even in the "spell check"
Thanks for the science lesson,I knew it was the same hardener but didn't realize the relationship and solids content.
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:23 AM
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There are a number of polyester primers for about $50.00 a gallon, a couple would do a nice "skim coat" on an entire car. Polyester putty is about $20.00 for a quart, and you would need about 10 or 15, or 20? or more do a complete car (God forbid), so the primer is a better deal.

Brian
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:24 AM
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Polyester primers get a big thumbs up from me. I wish I wouldn't have shunned them in the early years of my career. They can replace the final skim coat on filler work with ease. ZERO shrinkage.
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