What tools for 4L60E rebuild?
 

Howdy y'all! I am going to be rebuilding a 4L60E tranny, and I am wondering if I need any new tools (that I don't already have) for rebuilding the turbo 350's?

Thanks a whole big bunch!

Is anything on this page needed?
http://www.technicalvideos.com/tools/index_2.phtml

I have the universal clutch spring compressor from these guys, I have snap ring pliers, I have a hose clamp. Do I NEED anything else?

Thanks

two different seal protectors are needed for overrun clutch inner seal and forward clutch inner seal, and a solid seal and sizer for the input shaft! and pump alignment band and wire lip seal tool!

Hey thanks ronb! So I need these things?

http://www.technicalvideos.com/tools...mp_rings.phtml
http://www.technicalvideos.com/tools...haft_seal.phtm

and then I need the pump alignment band, which is a hose clamp.
Then I need the lip seal installer, which I can make out of a piece of guitar string...Is that it?

I've only done turbo 350's, so I've only seen the guts of that one. Just wondering what else to order, with the video and manual, so I don't have to wait forever for shipping other stuff. I'm in Alaska...

Thanks again man!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by AMDAP
[B]Hey thanks ronb! So I need these things?

http://www.technicalvideos.com/tools...mp_rings.phtml




I've only done turbo 350's, so I've only seen the guts of that one. Just wondering what else to order, with the video and manual, so I don't have to wait forever for shipping other stuff. I'm in Alaska...

ALASKA? BURRRRRRRR! this tool(link above) is really not needed for the 700r4 but is needed for the 4L60E! you will need to use the solid seals(not split ring seals)on the 4L60E it is possible to install the solids with out this tool but extreme care must be taken as to not damage them when installed then compress them using a hose clamp,allow the clamp some time to remain on the seal! the other link you found I believe is the Shaft seal tool you will need? the link is no good so I cannot tell for sure? this tool installs the solid seals on the input shaft, (the sizer that comes with it )I recommend you size each seal as they are installed then after all are in leave the sizer on the shaft as long as you can or until you are ready to install the housing! the video is helpful but really not necessary! Haynes has a really nice book on rebuiling the GM automatics (sold at most parts stores) has step by step with photo`s, finally the the 700R4 is similar to 350 internally

I use the scarf cut and L cut sealing rings on the 4L60E tranny all the time . There are no problems .

So I shouldn't have a hard time doing this tranny? AWESOME! I was worried I was getting in way over my head.

I'll try that link again

http://www.technicalvideos.com/tools...aft_seal.phtml

It is called a 700R4/4L60E Input Shaft Seal Installer/Resizer.

Do you guys know anywhere to get these tools cheaper?

Thanks ronb! Thanks for the tip Crosley! You guys always give me the education I can't afford...

tech service info claims the 4L60`s have problems with fluctuating line pressure therefore requiring the use of the solid seals on the stator shaft as the revisions dictate! for example, the reverse input drum oil port is larger than the 700r4 drum and also the input clutch piston orifice is resized to 1/16in! just on the slim chance that someone reading this thread is not familiar with the decimal equivalent of 1/16 ?it is 0.0625:thumbup:

OK I think I figured out the whole link deal. You can only have one page from technical tools opened at a time...

LOL

I see little pressure fluctuation in the 4L60E / 65E when setup correctly.

I resize ALL orifice holes in the reverse input drum aluminum piston to .060 regardless of feed hole size.

GM did have problems with reverse input frictions burning up since they tried to engineer a softer apply of the clutch through orifices that were too close to the same size of the feed and bleed holes

Weekly I build 5 to 7 4L60 , 4L60E & 65E units that range from 1987 to 2005 model years. None come back with a sealing ring problem. I use L cut rings only.

One area some DIY folks may screw up is the bushing replacement in this drum..... ie: they dont replace them. The reverse input drum bushungs are subject to high wear.

:thumbup:

Question in the back row Crosley! Do you need a press to change those bushings on the reverse input drum? How do you go about changing those?

Thanks!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by AMDAP
[B]So I shouldn't have a hard time doing this tranny? AWESOME! I was worried I was getting in way over my head.

I'll try that link again

http://www.technicalvideos.com/tools...aft_seal.phtml

It is called a 700R4/4L60E Input Shaft Seal Installer/Resizer.

Do you guys know anywhere to get these tools cheaper?

I`have been getting most of these tools at the local transmission supply here in town! seems that the tool trucks do not carry much of anything for transmissions? you may have better luck doing an online search as you were doing?

Yeah, I kind of figured that they were about as cheap as they could get. Just had to ask. You know anything about the bushings ronb? Thanks by the way!

there are bushing drivers that fit the bushings correctly. You can use a hammer to drive the bushing in if you have the correct bushing driver.


I use a chisel to remove the bushings and an arbor press to press bushings in.

Most tool trucks carry very little for internal transmission work. Prices on tranny tools are a bit high IMHO.

full bushing driver sets are expensive $300-400 dollars, however there are sets made specifically for the 4L60/700R4 cost around $100-200, I think the link you had earlier in this thread had this set? or when you remove your drum inspect it for wear from the 2/4 band, you may need a new one? if this is the case when you get a new one it should have new bushings in it so that will be 2 bushings you will not need to worry about? or if you have a mechanic buddy`s that might have the drivers they will lend you? I myself custom make mine on a lathe from aluminum round stock!:D